Brass Questions...

The pedal you step on is the one to figure the leverage on. Assuming that is where the brass link is going. The leaver at the hub certainly adds leverage to the brake system but is not a concern to the load on the lever from the pedal ahead of it.
 
oh, alright, so really it would be 5" x 75 lb =375lb of force
your assumption is correct in that


on a different note which nobody has really gotten into here, is the brass nuts i plan on making...
i plan on using these as the lock nuts behind the hiem joints like in the picture, and i plan on making them out of .500 brass hex with an M8 tapped hole to match threads.
as im not too familiar with much about nuts and such, should i make these thicker than a standard .250 lock nut to prevent possible stripping?
should i abandon the entire brass nut on brass stud idea and use a normal M8 stainless nut?

what would be the pros or cons of this situation?
 
sometimes you don't have time to panic...

 
Is the pedal in the picture the brake pedal? If so then applying the brake is a push on the rod rather than a pull?

Your pic stays small even when clicked on unusual. Makes it hard to see.
 
i tried finding a better pic, but this bike is an 88' so little to no pics online, but it is a push style.
in the most basic sense, you apply the brake via right pedal, which pivots and pushes the rear joint on the hub back, opening the brake pads inside the hub.

in the pic i posted the smaller dia one is the brake, which will be beefed up to M6.
the larger one is the shift linkage, which will be made to either M10 or 12 depending on whats a bit bigger and close.

I've found that even being a Honda, it's quite a bit of SAE, and I'm planning on making it as metric as possible.
 
I would feel alittle better about the brass threads on a push style. Then the issue is whether the brass rod is stiff enough to take the force of the push without bending.
 
that was my other concern

I'm going to make a blank then put it in a press, and see what it can handle. if it passes it'll be a go for me
 
You could make a cone style nut. I don't know if that is the term or not. It would be smooth in the cone section and fit over the threads and shaft and hide the threads on the shaft. Hears a pic I stole from the internet of a crudely made one.
Can't recall where I have seen these used, but often they just have two flats for a wrench rather than being six sided.


nut.jpg
 
I like that, not only would it look cleaner, but it wouldn't be that hard to make given that i have the option to start with hex stock.
 
I wouldn't use 360 brass for a brake. It is fairly soft and bends pretty easy. The slightest bend gets in it will buckle when you need it the most.
M6 is less than 1/4"
 
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