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Bridgeport J head noise

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Dynahoe Dave

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Got my series 1 J head powered up in a temporary way tonight. In the direct drive speeds, it is making a sound I know as [soon to fail] dry bearings, sounds like it is coming from a dried out bearing in the aluminum part. Louder with higher speeds. Put it in back gear, and it's a lot quieter.

Anyone know of typical ones that go bad?
 

Janderso

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Dale on, metal tips and tricks, did a video on taking a few thousandths off the bottom of the cast Iron ring used to lift the gear when you put it in back gear.
Mine made a rattling noise. i Did what Dale suggested, the noise is 80% better.
I thought it was spindle bearings.
My 2 cents
 

Dynahoe Dave

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I saw that video, am going to investigate that. But my noise is not rattling, it's - well soinds like - dry bearing noise.
 

Dynahoe Dave

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Ted, that might be worth doing. The motor does have faint dry bearing noise also. I already ordered parts from hw twice since I got the machine, they have been great at identifying a few odd pieces I needed.
 

Janderso

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Do you have 2 oilers in the head?
One of mine was missing.
Use the correct oil.
 

Technical Ted

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I answered the question originally the way I did because you were concerned with bearings, but I've given it more thought. Another common thing that makes noise only in hi range is the direct drive clutch teeth. At least this is the case with a 2J head like mine. I've never had a step model apart. If you put it in hi and grab a hold of the end of the spindle where the R8 taper is, can you turn it back and forth and hear some slop/clicking? If so, this is probably what is making the noise (or at least one thing that is making noise). The step pulley models are a lot quieter than the vari speed models.

Another way to check is to disengage the hi/low lever and try to move it up higher yet and see if this changes the noise. Don't lower it, because you can grind the teeth by doing so if you move it too far; move it up only. Some plates that have the hi range hole in them can be either moved up by loosening the set screw in the side or you can flip the piece over and extend it's range (if it hasn't been flipped over previously.

I would definitely suggest checking this out before doing a rebuild.

Ted
 

JimDawson

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You can replace all of the bearings in the drive system for <$100. Well worth the cost and effort. Buy good bearings from a local bearing house or McMaster. Don't buy Ebay or other unknown bearings, I learned the hard way. Less than $20 difference in the price.
 
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Dynahoe Dave

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There is one oiler recessed in the aluminum housing on top, and a bigger one on the side of the cast iron part.
 

Dynahoe Dave

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You can replace all of the bearings in the drive system for <$100. Well worth the cost and effort. Buy good bearings from a local bearing house or Mcmaster. Don't buy Ebay or other unknown bearings, I learned the hard way. Less than $20 difference in the price.
I agree. Took the belt off again, And turned the motor and the spindle separately, by hand. Definintely the sound of dry steel balls rolling on dry races. All comes from the aluminum housing. No rattling sound like the videos, but I am going to check that clutch adjustment also.
 

Dynahoe Dave

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Also set the clutch so the spindle sheave is unlocked from the quill drive, in back gear position. Both the freewheeling sheave and the quill have that same similar dry bearing sound. They are dead / near dead regardless. Off to H&W
 

Izzy

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@Technical Ted I don't mean to high jack a thread but I've got what I think is a noisy head. I have the slop/clicking that you described when I turn the spindle back and forth by hand. What is it that you adjust to fix that?
 

Technical Ted

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I assume it only does it in high range. This is where the spindle is in direct drive with the front vari pulley via the meshing of teeth on the clutch (bottom is actually the big bull gear). All the clutch is, is teeth on the ends of the bull gear and vari speed pulleys. They mesh together and if not fully engaged will rattle and can be heard by turning the spindle back and forth by hand.

The hi/low lever is what is used to engage them. If this lever doesn't let the lower/big bull gear (which has the teeth on it) travel up far enough it will not fully engage and the mess will be loose. That handle, in the Hi position, needs to move up more to raise the bull gear more, to get more mesh.

Some machines have a sliding piece with the hi range hole in it and this can be moved up by loosening the set screw in the side. This piece can also be flipped upside down, if it hasn't been flipped before, to give more travel. The hole in it is slightly off center.

I hope this answers your question. Let me know if it's not clear.

Ted
 

Technical Ted

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Here's the adjustable part I'm referring to:

Ted

Bridgeport Hi-Low_LI.jpg
 

Izzy

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Aaahhhh gotcha! Mines a series 2 with a 4j head but from my experience with this thing it's similar to a 2j head for most adjustments. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. Thanks!
 

Dynahoe Dave

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I got the belt drive assembly apart. Got the bearings on the bull gear out. They are the worst. The second worse are the bearings for the step pulley on the spindle side [vs motor side] The main spindle bearings seem good, not crazy noisey like these others. No play I can feel. I should put a gauge on it I suppose. The motor bearings are not great, have new ones on the way, as well as a kit from H&W for the step pulley drive.
 

Dynahoe Dave

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Got the drive and motor all put back together. So much quieter now! Also got and hooked up a Mitsubishi VFD.
Still have to run permanent 240 wiring to it, and mount up the DRO I got lucky coming across.
 
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