Bridgeport Series 1 Boss3 LinuxCNC Conversion

Shotgun

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I am in the process of converting the Bridgeport CNC that I bought a week ago. It had an old Ah-ha! system attached, and the PO had bought a Centroid Acorn system for it. I prefer LinuxCNC, and I wanted to replace the dated steppers anyway. So, out with the old, and in with some new!!

I'm going to document the entire process in this post. Read the thread if you want to see the sausage getting made. But, if someone reads this post, I hope that they can follow along and have a successful build. First, what I'm working with.
DSC05157.JPGDSC05158.JPG

A Bridgeport Series 1 CNC (Boss 3 as close as I can tell). Serial number CNC1324. I dropped it over on its face getting it in the garage. Broke off the Y-axis stepper and damaged the speed control. Repairs should be easy enough.


The steppers. I chose to go with the largest holding torque Nema 34 kit that StepperOnline had. I could have gone smaller and saved $20, but. . . seriously? I got the kit, because I figured the parts would be more or less compatible, if not optimized for one another.


The VFD to drive the spindle. I got the cheapest one that had modprobe/RS485 controls. I've used these cheap VFDs before. They're either DoA, or work for years, and this one came with an actual manual.

For the control computer, I'm using an Orange Pi 5. This is a Raspberry Pi clone. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BX9ZBYWJ
It requires a voltage level converter and a BOB (breakout board).

Wire it all up like this:
DSC05156.JPG

The power supplies accept 230V. To keep the current down, give it to them.
The VFD also needs 230V.
We'll pull one 120V leg over to power a 5V supply for the computer, and to the BOB which will control power to the automatic oiler and coolant pumps.

One of the first steps is to get LinuxCNC installed on the SBC (single board computer). For that, I'm following the directions posted here: https://forum.linuxcnc.org/18-computer/48079-can-the-opi5-be-configured-to-run-lcnc?start=90#269421

To be continued. . .
 
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Looking forward to your journey.
 
Tonight, I visited a buddy. We're both "techno hoarders". Neither of us want to throw away something that might be useful in the future. He got a Enco tapping jig, that I got with the mill. I got two FRP electronics enclosures, relays, cables, connectors, bus bars, fuse holders, and a few other odds and ends. None of that stuff seems expensive, until you have to outfit a build with it all.

When I got home, following the LinuxCNC install directions posted in the OP, I installed the Arbiam OS on the OPi5. I had to download and install Belena Etcher, a program for writing the images to SD cards. The RaspberryPi writer wouldn't work. Said the image was corrupted. Anyway, on the other computer right now, I'm watching a This Old Tony video, the one where he tries to replace the ball bearings in a ball nut. He's such a hoot. In the background, I have the linuxcnc latency test running and have 20,312 in the servo thread and 7,375 in the base thread.
 
What SD card did you use? Been trying for a week to get Arbian installed.
 
What SD card did you use? Been trying for a week to get Arbian installed.
I'm using the one that is red and gray. I'd give you more detail, but it is in the card running tests.
One of the things I found out last night is that you need to go into the settings menu and turn off all the power saving options. They just screw up the works.
I also changed the isolcpus parameter in the file /boot/armbianEnv.txt, but it didn't seem to make a difference.

For the uninitiated: LinuxCNC allows standard commercial computers to be used for machine control. In order to do that, it needs a real-time (RT) operating systems. Basically, the computer is going to tell the motors what to do when, and the motors are going to follow directions blindly. Well, telling someone to turn left tool early is just as bad as telling them too late if they don't have any control of their own. So, the big factor in using commercial hardware is "latency". How much variance is there in telling the motor to turn at the RIGHT time. You test this by running a program that issues commands then measures the response time, while running other stuff. Right now, I'm measuring a max of about +-14 microseconds, with the vast majority being +-4microseconds. So a command could possibly come 14 microseconds too soon. If I was cutting at 6ipm, some math I'm not doing right now will reveal how much error would go into the part.
 
What SD card did you use? Been trying for a week to get Arbian installed.
Jumping in here for a moment. I have an Orange Pi 3 LTS that I am using on my Voron 2.4 3D printer and as @Shotgun mentioned, use Balen Etcher to flash. Sandisk cards are the go-to but be careful of fakes. If you are having continous issues, try a different card. Also, I use the Raspberry Pi imager to write the OS to the card. Don't worry about it being Raspberry Pi imager, it will work fine on an Orange Pi.
 
I couldn't get the RaspberryPi Imager to work with the image shared by royka from the LinuxCNC forum. Had to use Balena Etcher.
And, that's it. Sandisk. I'm using a 32G Sandisk SD card.
I've also ordered an "m2" disk drive. They are supposed to be faster, and a 512G drive was only $20, so worth an experiment.
 
What breakout/controller board are you planning on using? I've been waiting for Mesa cards to get back in stock but no luck so far. I may contact them and put one on backorder once I get a few other things done.

edit: Nevermind. Just found your amazon link.
 
What breakout/controller board are you planning on using? I've been waiting for Mesa cards to get back in stock but no luck so far. I may contact them and put one on backorder once I get a few other things done.
It is the link above the power supplies picture in the OP. It is a generic board. I don't know if it'll work or not.
 
It is the link above the power supplies picture in the OP. It is a generic board. I don't know if it'll work or not.
In any case, don't buy the BOB I linked to. 'cause, you gotta be kidding me. . .

I don't know if that capacitor is supposed to be in that position or not, but the cold solder joint there and in other places just makes me cringe. And if they have some documentation of the pin out other than the markings on the board, they're doing a bang-up job of hiding it.
I'm going to write this one off as a $30 lesson in "don't be such a stupid cheap jerk."
 

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