I've seen several pictures of concrete lathe benches. Just a few notes:
Your forms need to be strong. Concrete is heavy, and thin plywood will bulge. You need a fair amount of external reinforcement on your mold to keep things in alignment
Casting some sections of I-beam or channel into the top, pre-drilled to accept your lathe's mounting bolts, is a good idea.
You can grind/sand things smooth and paint with epoxy if you want.
Casting threaded inserts in for leveling feet is a good idea.
You need to provide clearance for forklift blades or pallet jacks. These suckers can be heavy.
If you intend to move it around with a pinch bar, you need to provide for an angle iron perimeter (or tray) to pry against.
Rebar and wire mesh are still needed.
Sacked concrete is expensive, and you need to move along rapidly, perhaps with a rented mixer, if you want to finish before it starts to set up. If you have a trailer, you can haul the form down and have a concrete contractor fill it. With some negotiation, it might be very cheap.
The booms or hoses the contractors use move a lot of concrete and tend to dribble when shut off. Put a tarp or sheet plastic under the mold to keep the trailer from getting concreted.
There's no technical reason you couldn't haul the form in the back of a pickup truck, except concrete boom operation isn't exactly a precision thing... it would be a good idea to scope out the nearest water hose or car wash if needed.
Your forms need to be strong. Concrete is heavy, and thin plywood will bulge. You need a fair amount of external reinforcement on your mold to keep things in alignment
Casting some sections of I-beam or channel into the top, pre-drilled to accept your lathe's mounting bolts, is a good idea.
You can grind/sand things smooth and paint with epoxy if you want.
Casting threaded inserts in for leveling feet is a good idea.
You need to provide clearance for forklift blades or pallet jacks. These suckers can be heavy.
If you intend to move it around with a pinch bar, you need to provide for an angle iron perimeter (or tray) to pry against.
Rebar and wire mesh are still needed.
Sacked concrete is expensive, and you need to move along rapidly, perhaps with a rented mixer, if you want to finish before it starts to set up. If you have a trailer, you can haul the form down and have a concrete contractor fill it. With some negotiation, it might be very cheap.
The booms or hoses the contractors use move a lot of concrete and tend to dribble when shut off. Put a tarp or sheet plastic under the mold to keep the trailer from getting concreted.
There's no technical reason you couldn't haul the form in the back of a pickup truck, except concrete boom operation isn't exactly a precision thing... it would be a good idea to scope out the nearest water hose or car wash if needed.
