Buying a lathe, what tooling should I get/avoid?

A stand can be rock solid, then the lathe bed itself is used for leveling and adjusting with shims or whatever between lathe and stand.

I agree Bob, the base should preferably be rock solid, then the lathe, or any machine, can be bolted to it, using either shims, or jacking screws to get it flat and square. If this is done correctly then the base will add extra stiffness to the lathe and help prevent any distortion.

In a factory the machine will normally be bolted to a concrete floor using shims, or jacking screws. This is the correct method.
 
Bob, Yes you can essentially bring the floor up to any height you would like. The design would take more steel and add more weight. The task of unbolting, separating, and inserting shims to do something as simple as leveling, when the option to build leveling screws (or leveling screws and hold downs), into a base design would, in my opinion, seem much simpler.
 
Bob, Yes you can essentially bring the floor up to any height you would like. The design would take more steel and add more weight. The task of unbolting, separating, and inserting shims to do something as simple as leveling, when the option to build leveling screws (or leveling screws and hold downs), into a base design would, in my opinion, seem much simpler.

Yes that is what I did, my lathe came equiped with 4 tapped holes and jacking screws, plus clearance holes alongside them for hold down bolts, I welded up a base frame keeping it as square as I could, I have also fitted it with jacking bolts to set it square off the floor. Then I set hold down bolts into the topside of it.

When the base was set up flat and square on the floor, we lowered the lathe onto the frame, then using the jacking screws and hold down bolts to bolt the lathe up square, so it is now not only square, but also much more rigid as the base frame is now part of the lathe..

Using shims is a more painstaking process, but when done properly is just as good. normaly shims are only used in a factory where the lathe would sit directly on a concrete floor, the hold down bolts will be set in the concrete, either when it is poured or later by drilling holes and setting the bolts in with rock bolt adhesive. It is more difficult to set steel plates in the floor for the jacking screws, but it can be done, this why shims are often used.

When I was an apprentice I took part in this process an many occasions as the factory was enlarged and existing machines were relocated,and new ones installed, it was a great learning experience.

I gather many hobbyists in USA have timber floors in the shops, In this case it is essential to make a rigid frame for bolting you machines to as the timber floors will move and put undue stresses on the machine frame and it will never be square.

I did take some photos, I'll have to find them and post them.

Bob.
 
20 years of installs of new and rebuilt machines and the only shims I ever used were under jack screws that ran out of travel. We Cored holes into concrete to set hold down bolts if they were not put in with the machine pad and the machines leveled with either supplied jack screws and hold downs or tapered machine jacks and hold down straps dependant on the manufacturers recommendations. Everything from turret lathes to 50' gantry mills. Worked on some older sites that had timber floors with combinations of mounting plates and hold down screws, but only at some very very old plants. I'm not sure what type of welding process is used to make a frame that is square to machine tool specifications but I would like to see that.

I feel like people are mistaking my initial suggestion, so I'll never make it here again. Standard size lathes, like the one that is the topic of this post, are made with the mounting points where they are for specific reasons. Making a bench or frame to defeat any engineered in ability for the lathe to be adjusted on installation defeats the purpose of said engineering. This is of course my experience and what I was taught in a career of aligning, installing and rebuilding machine tools. Your mileage may vary.
 
20 years of installs of new and rebuilt machines and the only shims I ever used were under jack screws that ran out of travel. We Cored holes into concrete to set hold down bolts if they were not put in with the machine pad and the machines leveled with either supplied jack screws and hold downs or tapered machine jacks and hold down straps dependant on the manufacturers recommendations. Everything from turret lathes to 50' gantry mills. Worked on some older sites that had timber floors with combinations of mounting plates and hold down screws, but only at some very very old plants. I'm not sure what type of welding process is used to make a frame that is square to machine tool specifications but I would like to see that.

I feel like people are mistaking my initial suggestion, so I'll never make it here again. Standard size lathes, like the one that is the topic of this post, are made with the mounting points where they are for specific reasons. Making a bench or frame to defeat any engineered in ability for the lathe to be adjusted on installation defeats the purpose of said engineering. This is of course my experience and what I was taught in a career of aligning, installing and rebuilding machine tools. Your mileage may vary.

I'm not sure who is misunderstanding who, I didn't claim my welded base was square, I said it was as quare as I could make it. If the machine is joined to it correcdtly with bolts and jacking screws there will be no added stress to the machine, but they will become as one.

I would have liked to bolt mine to the floor, but for two reasons I couldn't. 1. the floor has plastic pipes in it for underfloor heating.
2. I wanted tp raise the machine up about 75 -100mm 3" -4". So I elected to do as I did. The lathe is raised up as required and is independent of the floor, which isn't quite flat anyway, The base and lathe are bolted together in a way that imposes no added stresses on the lathe and yet supports it as intended and adds extra stiffness.

Bob
 
I had some things to say, but now I feel I shouldn't. sorry.
 
Drill chuck for the tailstock, while many of the tools you will get from Matt are great, I bought one of his more affordable mt3 keyless chucks... not so good. I ended up getting a nice one from glacern https://www.glacern.com/drill_chucks, more affordable than Matt's high precision models and very smooth, and mine is very good, very low runout. You save a few bucks for others things, a win-win.


Thanks for the suggestion. I ordered a drill chuck from them. They shipped it insanely fast, same day for an afternoon order. Got it today and it was probably the best packaged item I've ever received. It's also heavier than I expected. I'm not sure what I expected, but I have whole drills with motors that are lighter.
 
The good ones are much heavier than the cheaper ones. You won't be sorry. I really like mine, I'm going to get a nmtb30 version for my mill.
 
Carbide is no doubt great tooling and many great suggestions but my personal view is with the hss at this stage of the game you will learn not just how to grind your tools but it will give you an idea of what changes to tool geometry actually do and once you can read your chips you can relate that with tooling and make a more educated purchase when it comes to tool holders and inserts. Also qctp are great also but again my view is not needed and a four post tool post can be quicker when you have all your tools mounted and just have to index to the next tool. Also once your shims are set up for centre height there is no fumbling around the next time. Just keep the shims with that tool. Save your money for more important things you really need as a machinist that have true quality that you will have forever like top shelf(quality) measuring instruments!
 
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I learned from a great friend of mine who has been a toolmaker all his life to make the carbide and HSS holders fit your centre height for your 4 way toolpost. He only has a 4 way on his LeBlond. All of my 4 way tooling is milled to .590 in height so the tooling is perfectly on center, with no shims. He also taught me how to grind HSS so when it was resharpened stayed on center. It is such a pain to shim and reshim - definitely worth the effort!
 
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