Buying a new lathe

Well, it's now been 3 months since I received my Lathe. Just a status report.

Was it worth it? Definitely yes! Compared to my Atlas it does everything faster and with more precision.

Would I buy it again. Again yes! I should have done it a long time ago.

Is there something better. I'm sure there is, but for my hobby purposes it's all I need.

All in all I very happy with it. I have basically learned all it's little idiosyncrasies so making something is a smooth operation.
The operation is not quite second yet, but that's to be expected after using my Atlas for 25 years.

Gary
 
Has anyone ever added some kind of extensions to the drain plugs to make it easier and cleaner to drain the oil?

Gary
 
Has anyone ever added some kind of extensions to the drain plugs to make it easier and cleaner to drain the oil?

Gary

I thought about using something like a Fumoto valve which are excellent drains (not sure if they make a size for our lathe). This is why I asked about the drain size for the mill. But my drain location for the headheadstock is in a bit harder location to access than yours (still in the same area). Pics please if you do!

Luckily I haven't had any messy oil changes with the type of funnel I cut to shape to use. The Form-A-Funnels are excellent for this odd type of oil change though.


I did make an extension for my air compressor though which made a world of a difference, only downside is that adding an extension slows the drain time but well worth it for cases like my air compressor where it can get messy.

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On the left is the extension that I made that started out as the same type of fitting on the right.
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Hey guys,

oil changes are a snap. My JET was overfilled. Can u imagine. So I had an awful mess. I had to drain it all on arrival and then refill for breakin then drain the breakin. So I had a plan.

I'm in Cullman now, but when I get back to Remlap, I'll send pics. Whoops, already have.

mike

see post #51 "My JET headstock alignment nightmare". Shutoff at bottom of tube, ball valve.
 
Hey guys,

oil changes are a snap. My JET was overfilled. Can u imagine. So I had an awful mess. I had to drain it all on arrival and then refill for breakin then drain the breakin. So I had a plan.

I'm in Cullman now, but when I get back to Remlap, I'll send pics. Whoops, already have.

mike

see post #51 "My JET headstock alignment nightmare". Shutoff at bottom of tube, ball valve.


That's exactly along the lines on of what I plan on doing.

Hey, I have relatives in Cullman!

Gary
 
Gary,
My engr & surveying company is in Cullman (my wife's hometown, she's a dental hygienist) and my shop, my bike, rifle range and 29 acres are in Remlap, 50 mi SE. ALong with a meager bachelor pad, read bare necessities, built for my retirement 30 yrs ago and before meeting Sue.

sometimes I'm here or there. Today I'm here (hee hee) other days I'm really out there. To clarify I'm now headed to Remlap. See, in the 1880s, the little town of Palmer, in north Jefferson Co, was the location of the Palmer Baptist Church. Two brothers got in a heated argument over church activities (at that time the church included all social activities, no Internet, can u imagine) and so one brother split the church and built a rock structure 10 mi north, the REMLAP Baptist Church. Still there. The area is infamous for the hideout of the train robber Rube Burrows, later killed in Selma, Al by a storekeeper for reward, with a rusty cap and ball Colt.

have a good Memorial Day and remember our fallen.

mike
now in Cullman
 
So far I have changed the oil one time in my PM1236 and it seemed like a pretty messy operation.

I decided to change that. First I went to Lowes and bought a couple of 1/4" double ended barbs.

Then I made a fitting to accept them. I couldn't use a store bought one (at least for the upper gear box)
since it was so close to the pulley it would hit it. Plus the holes are metric. I needed to make a stubby short one.

This is what I made:
IMG_2412 (Large).JPG


I cut and soldered the barb fitting from the inside just using plumbers flux and solder.

IMG_2413 (Large).JPG

In case you want to know the threads for all 4 screws on the head are M16x1.5.


Here is one mounted on the threading gearbox.
IMG_2414 (Large).JPG


And here is both of them. I used a long enough hose on both of them to hang over the edge and drain
into a container on the floor.

Since the hose is so close to the pulley I am using a clip to make sure it doesn't rub. I an also using the same type of clip
on each and of the hose to seal it. You see in this picture I have it clipped to the chip tray. I found that when I put the cover back on
it knocked it off. I ended up clipping it to the brake actuator.

IMG_2415 (Large).JPG

You can see in this picture the clearance. There is actually more then the picture shows.

IMG_2418 (Large).JPG

Now it's simple and clean to change the oil. It means that I will do it more often! :))

IMG_2412 (Large).JPG IMG_2413 (Large).JPG IMG_2414 (Large).JPG IMG_2415 (Large).JPG IMG_2418 (Large).JPG
 
Nice mod Gary... I was thinking of something along those lines but the list it too long...

Ray
 
Gary,
40 taper (or nmtb 40 or iso 40 or cat 40 ) nmtb came up with 6 or more tapers that have a common 7 to 24 slope. 40 taper has 2 dogs that provide drive, and the size of the taper (and therefore the spindle) make for a very robust and rigid machine. examples of 40 taper knee mills would be gorton mastermil, Beaver, some excellos (very few), larger taiwanese mills, and cincinnati toolmaster series.
here is a pic shamelessly lifted from randyc on a different forum (hope he doesnt mind, he seems a pretty decent fellow)

from left to right MT2, R-8 and 40 taper

P1010954.jpg


very nice work on your lathe!

P1010954.jpg
 
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