Can the HF 4x6" band saw cut multiple pieces of 4x4" steel tubing?

Breaking down after a couple of weeks- yes I can see that. Sometimes it's only days
 
Bought mine about 10 years ago. The first blade lasted about a week. I bought 3 bi metal blades from Enco, and still on the first.

For cutting medium walled tubing, keep the spring tension set on the light side. heavy cuts will break the teeth on the blade.
 
Wow, I'd never thought about it, but mine's 30yrs old! There are some weaknesses like the guide rollers. I replaced mine after a couple of years. A good bi-metal blade is a must and like with all things HF check it over good. Mine's cut tons of steel and was used once when we were fabbing equipment, all day everyday for several years. If buying used be sure to check it over good and cut something. If it pops a blade off when cutting check it. I've replaced the bearings in the drive of other saw's and also seen bearing in the takeup wheel worn out. Both of those if worn the blade won't track and will pop off under a cut.

It will be interesting to see if your sleeve setup works. Ive had neighbors who had that problem like on dead ends and on curves and one guy put a berm with oleander's to stop them. I'd be tempted to use the saw to make some tank traps, that'll stop 'em and you won't have fix 'em. :) Not as nice looking as a fence, but if they are running into it all the time fixing the fence sure gets old.
 
I wouldn't even consider the HF saw if it were not for the number of positive reviews from some of the members here. I just wanted to make sure it was up to cutting metal approaching its stated capacity. I'd buy new, not sure I'd trust a used one unless I knew the seller and they are pretty cheap new. I will be looking at used saws of other brands, but want something of that general size. I have limited space, and 220v would require adding an outlet. 4x6" is more than enough for most of my needs.

The fence has been an issue for us, second time in 4 years I'm replacing it. Believe me, I put some serous thought into making it resemble an Omaha Beach recreation. Being California I could see that being illegal, so I'm just trying to find a way to reduce the work if it happens again, which I'm sure it will. The insurance has paid up both times (took some arm twisting the second time) and the major pain is removing the fence posts, we set them into the ground well after that first time. Gotta be 200lbs of concrete in each hole. I saw the idea for setting steel "sockets" in the ground to deal with rotting fence posts and that seems like something that might work for idiot driver magnet fence posts too.


Tony Wells said:
Far be it from me to discourage a tool purchase, but do you have a cutting torch?
Click to expand...

No torch, well not entirely true. I have a propane plumbers torch but I don't think that would do the job.
I'd like a small band saw for cutting stock, and this seems like a good justification for it. My current option other than paying the metal yard to cut it is using a hacksaw and that doesn't sound like a way I want to spend several hours.
 
Because HF is just a importer, not a manufacturer the quality is all over the map. And some units are incredible (how can they make this for this price?) and others you'll be lucky to do one job.

30yrs ago I needed metal cutting saw and there was little choice as it was literally 1/8 the price of like a Craftsman or other name brands. But it being a cast iron frame was the main thing for me. You can always rebuild or modify a good frame and I have many modded HF machines. The one that gets most used now is an old HF 14" vertical bandsaw that I converted wood to metal by putting a reduction drive on it. Handier than a shirt pocket and bulletproof.

One of the other shockingly good HF tools is their top of the line Multitool's. I think I got it on special for $35! I was VERY skeptical how good or useful it was, but I bought one for my dad and he loved it. So I tried it out and I can't believe I've gotten along without for all theses years. Of course the blades that come with it are junk, but Bosch blades fit and they rock. There are just so many things you can do with it that no other tool will do. Recently we put in new flooring and I needed to undercut the door frames to put flooring under, no problem with the right blade it will go right through framing nails. Had to undercut the brick fireplace, different blade, no problem. Scrape up ancient linoleum off cement. Wouldn't say no problem, but the contractor was using his Bosch and I my HF and it took us a couple hours and the HF didn't die and did just as good a job.

I've gotten to rely on the reviews on the HF's website. Of course there is always some clinker, a guy who either got a lemon or doesn't know what he's doing. But overall you can get a feel for what you can expect. It was that way with my tile saw. The two top of the line had several probs, but the middle one had good reviews and was cheaper. But in typical HF fashion there was a goof. For whatever reason they thought it was a good idea to put the water feed on the top of the guard. Well it spun the water off before it got to the tile and the blade was cutting dry throwing dust all over. No Bueno por nada. So I noticed there was a flat in the guard right above the front of the blade. So I drilled and tapped the guard and put a 90deg brass fitting on there and stuck the water outlet hose on there and voila! No more dust, cuts like a knife thru butter. I used to cut my front walk 2" thick pavers no problem, then a year later to tile our vanity in the bathroom.

Moral of the story is don't expect perfection, do your homework(check the reviews) and be glad you didn't have to make the thing from scratch ;)
 
That's a good idea about sockets for fence posts. 200# might be a bit light, I 've seen signs knocked down with clumps of concrete. Got to love cell phones. 4" square tubing is going to have fairly large radiused corners and a weld seam. So a 4x4 , actually 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" post isn't going to fit.
 
I guess it was some kind of context thing, but if you want to just repair the post the quickest simplest way without going through all this have you ever used these?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...-Coated-12-Gauge-E-Z-Mender-FPBM44E/202563551

We replaced our fence like 3yrs ago and the posts were toast last year. Something about the ground, the crazy termites and the moisture from the sea and probably things like weak treatment, dunno. But right at the ground level the whole set of posts were just gone and then we had freak winds up to almost 80mph last year and or fences were like sails. I used those menders on the whole lot, just line it up and drive it into the old cement. Then screw into the post and good to go. Cheap too. We just had some more strong winds, so far so good.
 
The fence is an ongoing development, the socket idea is just the best solution I've found so far. One thought is to weaken the posts at the base so they snap rather than take the base with them. Apparently many guard rails have holes drilled into the base at ground level so they give way on a direct impact.
Picket fence about 3 foot tall so main issue is cars, wind load is minimal and people bumping them hasn't been an issue. People don't tend to lean on or try to sit on the pointy tops.

I will definitely check the post to tubing fit prior to purchase, but that is why I was thinking 4 1/2" square tubing. Thought was to size them close and use shims to snug the post up tight in the tubing.


I'm also making a new post about band saws. I was going to put it here, but thought a separate comparison thread might get more fresh eyes on it and be more useful for future searches.
 
A good drop bandsaw is a true asset for a shop. When I bought my 7” x12” Wilton, it was night and day difference between the 4” x 6” Keller recipicating powered hacksaw. You would set the Keller up get the cut started, then go in the house and read 5 or 6 chapters of War And Peace, then, as you were finishing up, the saw would stop. A great quality cut, but slower than death. Much like a Shaper, fascinating to watch, but mind numbing slow.

The blade that came on the Wilton, was marginal, switched to a 10/14 Morse blade, with great results.
 
I've had my HF 4x6 for a couple of years. Cut straight and square right out of the box. I ordered 2 bi-metal blades immediately, but the original blade lasted until a few weeks ago when I tried to cut a piece of 1x8 06 tool steel. Toasted that blade, one of the bi-metals and the motor. Can't blame the saw, I was asking WAY too much of it. Slapped on a motor from an old Craftsman vertical bandsaw and back in business.

One of the things I noticed while reading the reviews was that complaints that were common years ago disappeared as time went by. Apparently HF reads the reviews and addresses the issues.
 
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