Can't Thread Finer Than 28TPI on LMS3540/Sieg SC4 Lathe?

Thanks for posting this mikey. This thread has turned into an excellent source of information for fixing this!!!
I would assume the 2 straight slots are for adjusting change gears and an idler but what is the curved slot for ?
This is what the Emco banjo looks like:

View attachment 274539

Hope it gives you some ideas.
 
The round hole sits on a tightly fit bushing and is free to rotate. The curved slot below passes a bolt that locks the banjo in place once you locate the gears where you want them. It is a very precise and very solid way to make an adjustable gear train.
 
Hi Bob,

Is this what you mean:
Myford_Banjo-Laser.jpeg

Dead simple to do this took about an hour from scanning to DXF. Here I've just overlayed the DXF over the original scan.
 
Hi Bob,

Is this what you mean:
View attachment 274541

Dead simple to do this took about an hour from scanning to DXF. Here I've just overlayed the DXF over the original scan.

That's almost more involved than what I was thinking, but yeah. Instead of the radius cut into the right side, I probably would have made it straight, and the left side straighter. I don't think there's anything under the hood on the SC4 that would hit those sides.
 
Hi Bob, Guys,

Today is a bank holiday, but tomorrow I will send the DXF to the laser cutters, so hopefully by the weekend will have a 15 mm thick steel plate laser cut to size ready to finish off. There is only one hole that is critical size wise and that is the big 1", 3/8" (1.375") inch hole.

The shaping isn't at all critical, just me making it look nice. :big grin::big grin::big grin:
 
Hi Guys,

I've just found out that the guy who does my laser cutting, went on a fortnights holiday, yesterday. :oops:
Will report back later.
Sorry ! Thanks anyway.
 
I, for one, would like to see it in place when you get it, so just update this thread.

It'll be a while before I'm ready to try to do this.
 
After many many projects I have finally got around to testing all of the gears sets that I and MontanaAardvark (shortened to MA throughout this post for simplicity) claim interfere with the input shaft gear spacer ring (its the part circled in red on the photo in MA's first post and also in below photo) and the electronics box that is inside of the change gear cover. I also used the Supplement to the Sieg SC4 Instruction Manual written by Robert Ackert as a source as it omits any gear sets from its imperial threading chart that he felt would not physically fit on the machine due to interference.
For a quick recap, Sieg states that the following threads can be cut on the SC4 lathe. See pic below
lathe change gear chart.JPG

I tested all metric pitch change gears first and they all fit on the banjo inside of the change gear cover without any issues or interferences with the input shaft or the electronics box. I then tested the imperial change gears and found that 7 - 24, 48, 56, 72, and 80 TPI also fit on the banjo with it inside of the change gear cover without any issues or interferences. I skipped 27 TPI because, well its 27 TPI, who will ever need to thread 27 TPI !! The following imperial change gears did not fit in the same manner that the other gears did. This includes 28, 32, 36, 40 and 64 TPI. Right now in this post I will address 28 TPI only as it can work with slight modifications and without the need to rotate the banjo 180° outside the cover or make a new banjo. All of the other non fitting TPI's I will address in my second post which will come shortly after this post.

Ok, when I got to 28TPI I encountered a problem as well as did MA. First take a look at the below picture as it will be easier to describe the issue using a visual reference. Take notice to the arrow on the 127 tooth gear which points at the input shaft. This is where the interference takes place.
28 TPI .jpg

The below picture shows the components that I removed off of the input shaft to allow clearance to the 120 tooth B gear which is behind the 127 tooth C gear. The spacer ring slides over the input shaft and a washer and SHCS (not pictured) retain it to the shaft. These components can be removed if a modification is made to the input shaft or they can be modified which I will explain below.
28TPI retainer for input shaft pic.JPG

For 28 TPI the following set of 4 gears must be used. A/B=30/120 and, C/D=127/70.
The 120 tooth Gear B is way to close to the input shaft. I have the retaining ring, (washer and SHCS not shown) but with all of that out of the way the key is still an issue.

I am going to list 2 of the more simpler ways of modifying components to get around the 28 TPI issue and I will explain them in detail. I will post my other 2 optional ways to make this gear combo work inside the door in a later post but they require a modified banjo similar to the EMCO banjo.



Option 1
The first and easiest option which requires the least amount of work is to first make a new spacer ring for the input shaft. The key slot will be omitted. The ID of the ring will remain at 16MM (.63") but the original 21.8MM OD (.858") will now be 17.26MM OD (.68"). You will also want to eliminate the washer and make it part of the spacer. You don't have to do this but I figure it's much easier than trying to find a washer with a .68" OD or turning one down to size. Also if the hole in the washer is not tight on the threads it may have runout and make it hard to make it concentric with the spacer and in return cause an interference. Remember, there is only just shy of 2MM (.078") between the gear and the shaft.

The OD of the ring could possibly be another .25MM to .5MM (.010" to 020") bigger because when I checked for clearance I made sure the gear mesh was as tight as possible but in reality you wouldn't want zero backlash between the gears and also the tolerance from one machine to the other will vary.
Lastly you will need to mill down the section of the input shaft key that protrudes from the gear on the outboard side. It should be milled down so that it is flush with the top of the shaft. This will allow the thin spacer to slide over the shaft.
And before anyone says it, I know, I know, a spacer that has a wall thickness of .63MM (.060") is pretty thin but remember, the only purpose of this spacer is to keep the gear from walking on the shaft. It will not see a load from the gear train so the 4MM SHCS does not need much torque, just snug. Secondly, this is only for use when threading 28TPI.
This method is completely reversible and will not prevent you from going back to the factory parts whatsoever although you will need to source an additional key.

Option 2
The second option is to remove the input shaft and turn a groove on the shaft at the outboard location of the gear and install a C-clip (also called a circlip) to retain the 42 tooth gear from walking. This method is already used on the inboard side of the gear to retain it from walking. You will also need to shorten the key so that it is no longer than the gear. This method eliminates the spacer washer and SHCS and gives you the most clearance between the B gear and the input shaft. This method is also completely reversible and will not prevent you from going back to the factory parts whatsoever.

Below picture shows the combined options 1 and 2.
IMG_7137.jpg


Please let me know what everyone's thoughts are and if you have an idea that will work better please chime in and let me know your thoughts.
 
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I have the same LMS lathe. I had never tried the combinations that you are having trouble with, so I thought I would give it a go. I set up the change gears for 28 TPI and everything went together well, snug, but well. I started the machine and heard some cyclical interference that coincided with the main shaft rpm. The spacer/washer on the drive shaft was rubbing on the 127T “C” gear. The problem was that the yoke was pushed too far in on its hub. I loosened its clamp screw and scooted it out until it was flush with the end of the hub (about 1/16”), tightened it back up and problem was solved. You might want to see if that works on your machine.

Tom
 
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Thanks for looking into it and trying this gear combo. What are you referring to as the yoke and hub ?
I have the same LMS lathe. I had never tried the combinations that you are having trouble with, so I thought I would give it a go. I set up the change gears for 28 TPI and everything went together well, snug, but well. I started the machine and heard some cyclical interference that coincided with the main shaft rpm. The spacer/washer on the drive shaft was rubbing on the 127T “C” gear. The problem was that the yoke was pushed too far in on its hub. I loosened its clamp screw and scooted it out until it was flush with the end of the hub (about 1/16”), tightened it back up and problem was solved. You might want to see if that works on your machine.

Tom
 
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