Chucking work

[Charles scozzari]

Hello gentlemen, I buy flame cut disc's from e-bay and would like to know if there is a method that will enable me to hold any size round steel disc of any thickness to allow the the machining of the O.D. without drilling a hole to secure the piece either to a chuck or rotary table.I would like to add that when I don't need to hold the thickness I step one side which allows me to chuck it and then go back and cut the face. idea's?? Thanks.

 

[Firstram]

Superglue it to an aluminum mandrel and take light cuts. Heat it to release the glue.

 

[DavidR8]

Those edges will definitely be hard from the flame cutting!

 

[Charles scozzari]

Those edges will definitely be hard from the flame cutting!

When I can chuck mount the piece they cut without a problem. Thanks

 

[Charles scozzari]

Superglue it to an aluminum mandrel and take light cuts. Heat it to release the glue.

Sounds good but some of the disc's are 1"x 8" or better, but thanks

 

[toprecyler]

Put a center punch mark in the center, and then just hold it against your chuck jaws with the tailstock center.

It’s called pressure turning. If you take light cuts, you should be fine. But I would keep the RPMs on the lower side.

Alternative, Chuck up another piece roughy the same size and just out from the Chuck jaws and use this as the backing plate to hold the flame cut piece to.

It helps to have a live center.

If you do not want to center punch the plate, you can sandwich it between another piece that does have the center punch/ center drill puck.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mmcmdl]

I have carbide pointed pads that mount to my chuck jaws . With them and a pressure plate they hold anything I've thrown at it .

 

[Nutfarmer]

I would grind off the flame cut areas first. Next center it on a rotary table on spacers and clamp it two the table. Add new clamps and remove them when the end mill comes to a clamp. If done carefully the disk will stay centered and milled true all the way around.

 

[mmcmdl]

These are used on 2 piece jaw chucks only . Take your jaws off and screw these into the inner or outer holes depending on size of plate you're machining . These are serated carbide pointed pads silver soldered onto 1/2-13 bolts and machined flat . 2 nuts screwed on lets you true up face of your part with one and one locks to chuck . Keep your pressure disk over these pads , they won't slip . I've had to trepan using these and while it's doable , it's not for the faint hearted . ( I'm still missing one in this set but the hunt continues )

Here they are and I found the third one . Edit , lost the pic . Try again

Read here . https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/10-inch-disk.97026/

 

[Jimsehr]

I would try silver soldering a disk about 1/4 thick to the face of your slug. Hold on that . Turn od . Heat and remove disk. Or do same with tack weld disk to slug.
Then face off disk.
That is how I reworked some parts that blueprint said I could not center or drill.