Clausing 11 Headstock Alignment

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Badge171

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Can any one out there tell me the correct way to align the head-stock on my 11 ". I cant seem to cut a 3" pin without it being off .003 from start to end.I have tried to chuck a 3/4 ground bar (quality is questionable) in a collet, attach my indicator to the cross slide, and align by the head-stock alignment block, But it is not aligning .
Any help is appreciated
 
Update
Tried to chuck a 2" steel rod 8" long unsupported as per a clausing manual I found via Google , manual says to make 2 cuts rough one a finish, mike the ends 6"in width. Cant make a cut at any speed get so much chatter it trips the power lever. Not sure what to do????
 
is the cutter on center? or above or below?
is the crossslide adjusted sufficiently to prevent deflection?
is there too much backlash in your compound?
try taking cuts at a low to moderate speed, a freshly sharpened tool will work best.
are the headstock spindle bearings up to temperature and lubricated during the test?
is there too much spindle slop?

these are the questions i would answer first, there are most likely going to be more questions dependent on the answers...

aluminum is a great material to do test cuts.
depending on what type of steel you are trying to cut it might be part of your problem .
 
I also had a chatter problem and it was spindle oil (lack of),also if you are having a taper problem you shim the mounting leg, between the table and the leg on a bench mount. First like you manual says you have to determine which way the taper is, if it is larger on the tailstock end you shim the leg closet toward you as the operator stands.
 
Thanks
I had the day off today so here goes. My lathe has been on those rubber mounting pads. Specific size for the weight of the machine (1000 LBS). Always thought they could be a source of vibration, So I removed them, tapped the lathe bed flanges 5/8 x 11 Tpi . had some 5/8 carriage bolts milled the heads hex, and ground the bottoms flat. I replace all rubber floor mounts with these new adjusters. I have the bed right on level .I used my pals Starret 6" machinist level. I removed the head stock. The lathe had been totally apart about a year ago due to my moving. Anyway removed the head-stock, cleaned under, above, and in between. lubed the adjuster . mounted the headstock. Put my 3/4 ground rod (closest piece I have to concentric) via 3/4 collet, with about 11" overhang. Checked My spindle bearing adjustment (cold) per the manual .no run out . Ran my Starret last word indicator the length of the rod and adjusted the headstock as close as I could to 0. Removed the collet mounted my 3 jaw, centered my 2" mild steel . 6" length unsupported per manual. I was going to following the manual one cut. and one finish cut. Tool was sharp enough to shave with. Gibbs were all adjusted, It chattered so bad I thought stuff was going to fall off the shelves. I could not attempt to even start a cut. Just cant figure what I'm doing wrong. Removed the steel stock and went and purchased 3" by 7" length aluminum .Finally I can make a cut. I have the head stock adjusted to .001 over the length of the aluminum. I think by tomorrow I can get it where im satisfied . But it is still eating me why the steel will not cut as per the manual. I think I need someone with some experience to give me some schooling. Oh ya all the work tapping on my knees. and making the levelers all for not. Some one shoot me.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated
Frank
 
hi mate does the machine vibrate when its turning? how fast are you spinning it?
can you show a photo of your cutting tool.
if it vibrates when you turn the spindle try running it with the chuck removed and compair
any vibration.
aaron

Badge171 said:
Thanks
I had the day off today so here goes. My lathe has been on those rubber mounting pads. Specific size for the weight of the machine (1000 LBS). Always thought they could be a source of vibration, So I removed them, tapped the lathe bed flanges 5/8 x 11 Tpi . had some 5/8 carriage bolts milled the heads hex, and ground the bottoms flat. I replace all rubber floor mounts with these new adjusters. I have the bed right on level .I used my pals Starret 6" machinist level. I removed the head stock. The lathe had been totally apart about a year ago due to my moving. Anyway removed the head-stock, cleaned under, above, and in between. lubed the adjuster . mounted the headstock. Put my 3/4 ground rod (closest piece I have to concentric) via 3/4 collet, with about 11" overhang. Checked My spindle bearing adjustment (cold) per the manual .no run out . Ran my Starret last word indicator the length of the rod and adjusted the headstock as close as I could to 0. Removed the collet mounted my 3 jaw, centered my 2" mild steel . 6" length unsupported per manual. I was going to following the manual one cut. and one finish cut. Tool was sharp enough to shave with. Gibbs were all adjusted, It chattered so bad I thought stuff was going to fall off the shelves. I could not attempt to even start a cut. Just cant figure what I'm doing wrong. Removed the steel stock and went and purchased 3" by 7" length aluminum .Finally I can make a cut. I have the head stock adjusted to .001 over the length of the aluminum. I think by tomorrow I can get it where im satisfied . But it is still eating me why the steel will not cut as per the manual. I think I need someone with some experience to give me some schooling. Oh ya all the work tapping on my knees. and making the levelers all for not. Some one shoot me.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated
Frank
Click to expand...
 
Arron
Sorry for the miss understanding . The lathe chatters on the unsupported, 3 jaw, cut on a 2" mild steel 6" length as per the manual for headstock alignment.
Regards
Frank
 
WHat are your speeds and feeds on both the materials? Have you checked your spindle bearings for play? 2x4 under the chuck with an indicator on the top side of the chuck to measure movement vertically.....lever on that 2x4 and see how much movement you get.
 
Badge171 said:
Arron
Sorry for the miss understanding . The lathe chatters on the unsupported, 3 jaw, cut on a 2" mild steel 6" length as per the manual for headstock alignment.
Regards
Frank
Click to expand...

ok then. just going thru this out aloud.
the steel bar what sort of steel is it its not some sort of hard bar?
back to the cutting tool. if all the clearances are right and its on centre
height. id be trying these test cuts at one of the slower spindle speeds
maybe around 300 rpm and try a cut with the quick change gear box in
neutral of disengaged.
photos would help
 
I tried speeds from 185 rpm to 550 rpm,s carbide inserted tool, and HSS ground razor sharp with the correct angles and relief.Ill see if I can get some pictures for this
Regards
 
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