Some brass from eBay, but most of the material from Midwest Steel (midweststeelsupply.com).
The most hard to find and expensive was the brass for the main wheel. Midwest allows for the exact quantity needed, so I've ordered a piece of 5" diameter round by 3/8" long brass 360. It was cut as almost 1/2" thick. Perfect.
Clickspring on youtube has some great clockmaking videos, documenting his build on a skeleton clock.
A passion of mine also. I have joined NAWCC, but not looking to be mentored.... I may be to slow on the uptake, IDK.
My reason was to locate a qualified clock repairperson to rebuild an Elliott Grandfather movement.
Still waiting on the rebuild, getting funds set aside for it. Hoping in the next year or so to get that done.
Glad to know that there are people here in the group with the same interests though.
I got interested in machining because of another clock I have that needs a couple of gears made. To date I have not yet made the gears, but I have learned a heck of a lot in the process, so no complaints here... Picking up tooling and what not as I find deals.
That's half the fun of it too...
I will use tapered cutting broaches. I've got some from Timesavers.
Never used then, as for a machinist (amateur) then don't make much sense...
Reading a lot about clockmaking, I'm convinced about then now.
All done with the slitting saw, no filing; total of six cuts in this wheel.
No tilting of the milling head. All done by offsetting the cut.
It was a challenge; the first try, not shown of course, did not work.
There was a lot of thinking and drawing on a cad program. Here a sketch for the first 4 cuts:
Yes, the same slitting saw (0.030 thick)
You can see the sequence of cuts on the picture on the previous post.
The tooth profile was defined in cuts 1 and 2. Cuts 3 to 6 removed all the material between teeth. For these cuts, the saw was kept at the same position, pointing to the center of the wheel so the root is concentric. Actually it is formed by six short straight lines (the face end of the saw - kerf).
For each sequence, set the height of the saw (mill head Z) for the offset and the mill table Y axis for the depth of cut.
Cut 30 times turning the rotary table by 12 degrees. New start position (angle), new Z, new Y and cut again 30 times...
It would be much harder without a DRO. And my rotary table is microcomputer controlled. Even so, this was 180 cuts in total. The wrists are sore...