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Winner Clock

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David S

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Thanks Wagner. Nice work and keep posting.

David
 

David S

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Wagner, awesome. Not too sure how many machinists on this forum are interested in clocks, but I do appreciate what you are doing.

David
 
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Frame
Frame 005.jpg


Thank you David, I will keep posting.

Forgot to put something to judge size. The frame is 14 in wide.
Not much progress this weekend, spent most of the Saturday raking leaves.

Wagner
 

rwm

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Beautiful work. This is going to be really nice!
Robert
 

David S

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Wagner looks like lots of brass. Where do you obtain it?

David
 
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Hi David,
Some brass from eBay, but most of the material from Midwest Steel (midweststeelsupply.com).
The most hard to find and expensive was the brass for the main wheel. Midwest allows for the exact quantity needed, so I've ordered a piece of 5" diameter round by 3/8" long brass 360. It was cut as almost 1/2" thick. Perfect.

Wagner
 

stomp10

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Clickspring on youtube has some great clockmaking videos, documenting his build on a skeleton clock.
A passion of mine also. I have joined NAWCC, but not looking to be mentored.... I may be to slow on the uptake, IDK.
My reason was to locate a qualified clock repairperson to rebuild an Elliott Grandfather movement.
Still waiting on the rebuild, getting funds set aside for it. Hoping in the next year or so to get that done.

Glad to know that there are people here in the group with the same interests though.
I got interested in machining because of another clock I have that needs a couple of gears made. To date I have not yet made the gears, but I have learned a heck of a lot in the process, so no complaints here... Picking up tooling and what not as I find deals.
That's half the fun of it too...

Just glad to be here!
 

David S

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Awesome work Wagner. A lot of trundles in that lantern pinion. Don't think I have seen that many before.

Are you just using normal brass for all of the arbor pivot bushings?

David
 
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Hi David,

The pinion has 20 trundles. The arbor pivots are bronze (sleeve bearings).

Wagner
 

David S

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Wagner are those pivot bearing / supports just sitting on pins, waiting to be properly depthed and secured with screws through the holes in the bottom of the bearing supports?

David
 
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Yes, but the wheels need a little teeth polishing first, the pivots need polishing and the bearings a little touch with the broaches. Then the proper depthing and the bearing cocks fixed with a screw.

Wagner
 

David S

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Do you use straight broaches? Or tapered cutting broaches. This always brings up some controversy in my other clock forum.

The problem is the number of straight broaches.. or reamers as I would call them.. that one would need.

Looks awesome so far. Keep posting.

David
 
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I will use tapered cutting broaches. I've got some from Timesavers.
Never used then, as for a machinist (amateur) then don't make much sense...
Reading a lot about clockmaking, I'm convinced about then now.

Wagner
 

David S

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Continues to look awesome. What type of suspension will you be using?

David
 
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Just a simple thin piece (0.008) of steel.
From McMaster, Steel Feeler Thickness Gauge 2083A21

Just cut the Escape wheel. Crossing it out now.

Wagner
 
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Escape Wheel
EscapeWheel 014.jpg

The making
EscapeWheel 999.JPG

180 cuts (6 x 30). Really tired of turning cranks.

Crossing on the CNC
EscapeWheel 015.jpg


Wagner
 

David S

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Hi Wagner. I have been wondering how I would make an escape wheel if I had to repair a clock with a buggered up E/W. Did you do it all with a slitting saw?

And did you have to tilt the milling head? Or could you do it by off setting the RT?

David
 
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Hi David.

All done with the slitting saw, no filing; total of six cuts in this wheel.
No tilting of the milling head. All done by offsetting the cut.
It was a challenge; the first try, not shown of course, did not work.
There was a lot of thinking and drawing on a cad program. Here a sketch for the first 4 cuts:

EscapeW.JPG
 

David S

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Great Wagner. Trying to figure out the full material removal. Did you use the same thickness slitting saw for all cuts?

I hope you are resting your wrists now :)

David
 
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Yes, the same slitting saw (0.030 thick)
You can see the sequence of cuts on the picture on the previous post.
The tooth profile was defined in cuts 1 and 2. Cuts 3 to 6 removed all the material between teeth. For these cuts, the saw was kept at the same position, pointing to the center of the wheel so the root is concentric. Actually it is formed by six short straight lines (the face end of the saw - kerf).
For each sequence, set the height of the saw (mill head Z) for the offset and the mill table Y axis for the depth of cut.
Cut 30 times turning the rotary table by 12 degrees. New start position (angle), new Z, new Y and cut again 30 times...
It would be much harder without a DRO. And my rotary table is microcomputer controlled. Even so, this was 180 cuts in total. The wrists are sore...
 

David S

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Keep going Wagner. I am waiting for the verge.

David
 
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