confused

[DAN_IN_MN]

:whistle:If you want really cheep! :whistle:


​

I got this idea from the guy who owns Tried and True Tool in Coon Rapids MN. He had RPCs sitting there but let me in on this.

Find an unwanted 3 phase motor that is 220 and larger than the motor you want to run. Connect the two 220 leads up to two of the three leads on the motor with some sort of a switch/disconnect. Connect your machine motor up to the three legs of the converter motor of course with a switch in between.

Now, any three phase motor will run on 220 single phase once it's spinning. The trick is to get the converter motor spinning. I have mine sitting on the floor. I use my foot and kick it to get it spinning. Once I think it's fast enough, I turn the power on. The converter motor is now running. Now I can run my mill, lathe, and my car hoist. I soon will be adding my tire balancer once I get the threads cut in the nut to hold the wheel on.

I have run capacitors to balance the amps in the phases. I got them used from a local guy who rebuilds motors. Before the capacitors were put in, there was a huge arc (EMF) when I pulled the disconnect on the converter motor. Now I don't see any flash. Other than the flash on disconnect, I don't remember why I needed the capacitors. Maybe someone can fill that one in. I don't have an amp meter. I had a friend come over with a meter and help me balance the system.

 

[Ray C]

Be careful to make sure the unit has a speed control on the panel. Some of the lower priced ones require you to wire-in your own variable rheostat which costs a few bucks and requires a little extra wiring. The 20 extra bucks for a built in panel speed control is money well spent.


Ray

Thanks every one
I am looking at a VFD that cost about $130 for a 2hp motor

 

[DAN_IN_MN]

Be careful to make sure the unit has a speed control on the panel. Some of the lower priced ones require you to wire-in your own variable rheostat which costs a few bucks and requires a little extra wiring. The 20 extra bucks for a built in panel speed control is money well spent.


Ray

I've read on this forum somewhere, some guys are adding a remote speed control.

 

[Ray C]

Yes indeed, if it has a built-in speed control, you just program it to accept input from an external switch. It will work from one or the other but not both at the same time -as that is a safety issue.

I've read on this forum somewhere, some guys are adding a remote speed control.

 

[CluelessNewB]

Thanks every one
I am looking at a VFD that cost about $130 for a 2hp motor

I think that limits you to an Ebay special.

You can purchase a Teco JNEV-202-H1 for $177 + shipping and it has a speed control knob on the front panel. Personally I would save my money for a few weeks and hold out for the JNEV.

http://www.goodreads.com/quotes/236559-it-s-unwise-to-pay-too-much-but-it-s-worse-to

 

[UncleRuss]

If this is a hobby for you and have a stable roof over your head and meals at dinner time, don't cost-justify your purchases.

Ray

Ray, may I use this? Very well said. Could not have said it better myself!

Worked with a guy once who said the very same things. After his divorce I learned he was the tight one and just put the blame on the old lady!!!

 

[DAN_IN_MN]

:whistle:If you want really cheep! :whistle:


​

I got this idea from the guy who owns Tried and True Tool in Coon Rapids MN. He had RPCs sitting there but let me in on this.

Find an unwanted 3 phase motor that is 220 and larger than the motor you want to run. Connect the two 220 leads up to two of the three leads on the motor with some sort of a switch/disconnect. Connect your machine motor up to the three legs of the converter motor of course with a switch in between.

Now, any three phase motor will run on 220 single phase once it's spinning. The trick is to get the converter motor spinning. I have mine sitting on the floor. I use my foot and kick it to get it spinning. Once I think it's fast enough, I turn the power on. The converter motor is now running. Now I can run my mill, lathe, and my car hoist. I soon will be adding my tire balancer once I get the threads cut in the nut to hold the wheel on.

I have run capacitors to balance the amps in the phases. I got them used from a local guy who rebuilds motors. Before the capacitors were put in, there was a huge arc (EMF) when I pulled the disconnect on the converter motor. Now I don't see any flash. Other than the flash on disconnect, I don't remember why I needed the capacitors. Maybe someone can fill that one in. I don't have an amp meter. I had a friend come over with a meter and help me balance the system.

This system works very well by the way.

 

[UncleRuss]

But the problem with a RPC is you are paying to operate that extra motor the whole time you are in the shop. I am sure no one turns them off and on with the mill, drill, lathe, or what ever. Even then if the RPC is 3hp and the lathe is 3/4hp you are paying the bill to operate 3 3/4hp when you are barely doing the work of 3/4hp. Pay me now-pay me forever!

 

[DAN_IN_MN]

But the problem with a RPC is you are paying to operate that extra motor the whole time you are in the shop. I am sure no one turns them off and on with the mill, drill, lathe, or what ever. Even then if the RPC is 3hp and the lathe is 3/4hp you are paying the bill to operate 3 3/4hp when you are barely doing the work of 3/4hp. Pay me now-pay me forever!

If I'm not making chips, the converter is off. Yes, you are correct about paying to run two motors. However, if I didn't have this setup, I'd probably be using a hand crank set up! anic: :jester: Yes, it is a pain, but that's what I do.

 

[awander]

But the problem with a RPC is you are paying to operate that extra motor the whole time you are in the shop. I am sure no one turns them off and on with the mill, drill, lathe, or what ever. Even then if the RPC is 3hp and the lathe is 3/4hp you are paying the bill to operate 3 3/4hp when you are barely doing the work of 3/4hp. Pay me now-pay me forever!

It doesn't take 3hp to run an unloaded motor.