Coolant Pump

Just wondering, I would think I wouldnt need pressure/ just a flow or a lazy stream so a Napa
fuel pump the one around 3 4 lbs or a windshield washer container built in pump and both will run off
a battery charger. And while talking about coolants most I read are water based. So what is so wrong
using RV (pink) antifreeze or even regular antifreeze. Its oilly to the touch and wont freeze?? and is
cheap and is designed to be pumped and doesnt cause rust at least in engine blocks. RV stuff is like
two bucks a gallon, I think ill try it first, because when in rv water tanks for winter and summer comes
the tanks are filled with water and its not toxic, manely because there is a shop supervisor here and is
a shop cat. nothing to lose if it dont work i can always use it.
 
The coolant that I will be using is Rustlick (don't remember the number) diluted 5:1 with distilled water. The pump is brass. If I used oil instead of the water based coolant, I would use a cast iron pump but the water based coolant is hard on cast iron.

The current chambering process is to oil up the reamer, run it in about .100, stop the lathe, clean the chips from the reamer, clean the chips from the chamber, dip the reamer, squirt some cutting fluid in the chamber, go in another .100, repeat. When you get farther into the chamber, you cut down to .050 and then finally to .020 until you get to your finished depth. The reasoning behind this is to keep any chips from building up and catching between the reamer and the chamber. (These are Benchrest Barrels used in competition) I didn't invent this process, I learned it from a couple of top gunsmiths that are world class shooters.

With the flush system, you merely take the pressure off the reamer and let the chips flush out and resume cutting. You still stop to let the chips flush every 100 thou or so but you don't have to remove and clean the reamer.

High pressure is required as there is very little clearance between the bore and the reamer bushing. Piloted reamers are used. Pilot bushings sets are .0002 apart in size. A busing is selected that just barely fits in the barrel bore. I am told that Pacific Tool has reamer pilots that have three "flats" ground on them for oil clearance. I will talk to Dave Kiff about that next time I order something from Pacific.

The other component is a rotary coupler to get the coolant into the muzzle end of the barrel. Greg Tannel (Gre-Tan Rifles) sells a rotary coupler that works very well (according to Greg :))
I haven't used one yet. The alternative is a Duff-Norton rotary union. Very expensive.

One problem with using oil that I have heard from a couple other folks is that such high pressure is required to get the oil past the reamer pilot, that sometimes the pressure blows the coupler off the end of the barrel. That would leave a heck of a mess. Better to have that happen with water based coolant than with cutting oil.

The pressure will be regulated by a bypass path from the high pressure side to the return tank.


Finally, the other folks that I have talked to about this project have suggested a 10 micron home water filter be inserted in the high pressure side of the system. One of the folks I talked with has one in a transparent case and said that after about 200 barrels, the filter is hardly discolored and the pressure is the same as the first day he used it.


I think that I have described this system as best I can. It will be several weeks before I get the parts and the time to complete this project. I will post some pictures at that time.

Earl
 
One thing that I forgot to mention is that this is a hobby, not a business. I only chamber barrels for myself. I go thru about 10 or so barrels for my 4 (soon to be 5) competition rifles per year. My shooting sponsor (my wife) treats me pretty well and this project is for fun and something to talk about with my shooting buddies out at the range. This project definately goes into the "want" category, not the "need" category. Saving a few hours per year is never going to result in a cost justification.

Earl
 
If you check out the Projects in Metal site you will find a portable pump project I made for my own use. The administrator over there ask that I not give it to anyone else for a while to promote his site. But if you happen to find it, oh well. Do not know how the performance would be in a closed system like barrel flushing as the pump is a parts washer pump and I have only used it to flood parts and cutters. Keep the SWARF a fly'in!
 
I think all you need is a swamp cooler pump and you can get one at Lowes for $16 bucks.
jimsehr
 
Hey, I just fixed my ex wife washing machine, replaced the water pump with a new one...$15.00 dolars, lots of flow, all sealed plastic components....runs on 115 -127 volts. Could also be an option.

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GK1918 said:
Just wondering, I would think I wouldnt need pressure/ just a flow or a lazy stream so a Napa
fuel pump the one around 3 4 lbs or a windshield washer container built in pump and both will run off
a battery charger. And while talking about coolants most I read are water based. So what is so wrong
using RV (pink) antifreeze or even regular antifreeze. Its oilly to the touch and wont freeze?? and is
cheap and is designed to be pumped and doesnt cause rust at least in engine blocks. RV stuff is like
two bucks a gallon, I think ill try it first, because when in rv water tanks for winter and summer comes
the tanks are filled with water and its not toxic, manely because there is a shop supervisor here and is
a shop cat. nothing to lose if it dont work i can always use it.
Click to expand...

I like the Idea of antifreeze, but, how about guides and spindle oil? Would it turn into "icecream" like when gaskets blow on engines and oil and antifreeze mix? Would I be able to skim it? How about disposal of the glycol. I love the Idea for cnc machines.
 
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