Crooked Bandsaw Blades

[rwm]

I have a Jet 18" vertical bandsaw. I typically run a 14 TIP 1/2" bimetal blade either .025 or .035. thick. I just removed a Starrett .025 blade because it was missing some teeth. Otherwise that blade ran and tracked perfectly. I replaced it with a Starrett .035 thick blade. I set the tension correctly and adjusted the blade guides. This blade does not run right. It appears to have a twist in it and the teeth visibly move from left to right as it runs (this is not related to tooth set) I tried increasing the tension and re-adjusting the ball bearing guide without effect. This behavior results in a wavy cut that requires extra finishing. I think the blade is defective and has a twist in the material. I have run into this with one other blade which I ended up trashing. I hate to have to throw away a brand new $50 blade.
Have you seen this? Can it be straightened? Any other ideas?
I could try to return it but I probably bought it years ago. I always keep extras on hand.

 

[rwm]

OK. I cut a slot in a steel bar and approached the blade from the back while it was running . I then torqued the blade as far in one direction as I thought was safe. I let the saw run through a few rev of the blade to see if this would take the twist out of it. No dice! It still wobbles as it runs. Is this blade trash?

 

[Mitch Alsup]

Put a dial indicator on the table,
raise the safety guide to the highest position
Mark the starting point of the blade
rotate the blade around by hand watching the dial indicator
.....mark the start of the bad section
.....mark the end of the bad section

You may have to make up a fixture where you can grab the blade body (but not the teeth) {in 2 close sections and use one to bend the transition} locate where the blade starts going off and gently bend the blade in the appropriate direction. Repeat above--until the blade runs true.

 

[rwm]

I'll try that! (not high hopes) To bend it, I'm thinking of two steel bars with slots cut into them.

 

[woodchucker]

I had a brand new wood working saw blade do that too. I was able to get it to run better, but never perfect.
I let that blade run for a long time without it cutting. I figured that it was either storage, or a bad manufacture or weld. Whatever it was old like yours, but brand new never used. So in trying to save it , I just let it run to take stresses out. it took a lot out, but still has a slight back and forth.

 

[rwm]

These are all custom welded. I fear that they twist the raw material when they are taking it off the coil. Some sources probably do a better job.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

These are all custom welded. I fear that they twist the raw material when they are taking it off the coil. Some sources probably do a better job.

At $50 a pop get a blade welder and a box of blade stock and make them in house.

A blade jig and silver solder is another option.

 

[rwm]

At $50 a pop get a blade welder and a box of blade stock and make them in house.

A blade jig and silver solder is another option.

I looked at this option. My brother has a blade welder. After pricing the coil stock it did not seem worth it. Yes you could save some money, but not as much as I thought and the coil stock only comes in very large foot quantities. On my VBS I never break blades, but I do tend to lose a lot of teeth. I have never tried this but can you TIG weld a blade together and grind it flat?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

I looked at this option. My brother has a blade welder. After pricing the coil stock it did not seem worth it. Yes you could save some money, but not as much as I thought and the coil stock only comes in very large foot quantities. On my VBS I never break blades, but I do tend to lose a lot of teeth.

You need to think ahead if you want to save money in this hobby.

I look for cheap blade stock and buy that vs buying at full retail. I probably have enough to last me the rest of my life and I paid Pennys on the dollar.

I’m still looking for more.

 

[rwm]

Just for fun I took an old blade that was missing some teeth and cut out the bad section, about 1". Then I tried to TIG weld it back together. I accidentally discovered that 80-20 channel is perfect hold a 1/2" blade. On my first pass I melted the teeth and had to start over. I set the welder at 60A and went gently on the pedal with sharp tungsten.



I know the weld is incomplete on the tooth side. I also welded the opposing side which looks better. I will run this and see if/when it breaks!