Crooked Bandsaw Blades

you need to grind it and temper it.
it will crack there if not tempered.
 
I ground it. How do I temper it? Just heat it up a little?
 
take a torch and heat it , the area around the weld is too brittle. I don't know how much to heat it. I silver solder my wood blades, but I do know that welding them it requires a temper. I remember on the metal band saw welder that was on the metal vertical band saw, it had a weld and a temper/anneal setting.
 
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My bet is its gonna crack there anyway cause its not resistance welded all the way through the teeth. :rolleyes: Blade was otherwise scrap.

I put an indicator on the crooked blade and tried to straighten it further. Its better but not satisfactory.
 
rwm said:
Just for fun I took an old blade that was missing some teeth and cut out the bad section, about 1". Then I tried to TIG weld it back together. I accidentally discovered that 80-20 channel is perfect hold a 1/2" blade. On my first pass I melted the teeth and had to start over. I set the welder at 60A and went gently on the pedal with sharp tungsten.

View attachment 457299

I know the weld is incomplete on the tooth side. I also welded the opposing side which looks better. I will run this and see if/when it breaks!
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Grind it and heat it with a torch until just blue, otherwise it will break.
 
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rwm said:
My bet is its gonna crack there anyway cause its not resistance welded all the way through the teeth. :rolleyes: Blade was otherwise scrap.

I put an indicator on the crooked blade and tried to straighten it further. Its better but not satisfactory.
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Weld straight through the teeth and leave the bead there a little full.

Dress bead and adjacent teeth down to blade back thickness and your good. The adjacent teeth can be ground slightly dished on the front as long as the first tooth is not proud of the tooth pattern.


Ie, there's no "Buck tooth" sticking out.
 
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I tried my TIG welded blade and it runs a little crooked at the weld cause I didn't have it aligned perfectly. I will keep it as a backup.
I put a new Irwin Diemaster .025 x 1/2 and it runs perfectly. No runout at all. It think a lot of these problems come down to whom is welding the blade. It probably varies a lot by supplier.
I was thinking that it probably doesn't matter how many welds are in a blade. If I invested in a blade welder I could make frankenblades from my supply of blades missing teeth. I can also run a blade that is up to 2" shorter based on the available adjustment.
 
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For my little metal band saw; Milwaukee.. I have been buying Milwaukee blades, the welds are not that good. The bandsaw makes a pronounced push every time the weld comes around, And I had a brand new blade break at the weld without cutting anything, just giving the blade time to settle.

The next batch will be Starretts or Lenox. Gotta keep trying different sources.

For my woodworking saw, I thought I liked the Timberwolf until I gave the Highland heavy-black-heart_sml.pngresaw blades a try... Unbelievable the difference. I hated the Olson's, so it's important to try different brands, or become the expert at doing your own.
 
rwm said:
I tried my TIG welded blade and it runs a little crooked at the weld cause I didn't have it aligned perfectly. I will keep it as a backup.
I put a new Irwin Diemaster .025 x 1/2 and it runs perfectly. No runout at all. It think a lot of these problems come down to whom is welding the blade. It probably varies a lot by supplier.
I was thinking that it probably doesn't matter how many welds are in a blade. If I invested in a blade welder I could make frankenblades from my supply of blades missing teeth. I can also run a blade that is up to 2" shorter based on the available adjustment.
Click to expand...
Hammer your weld flat.

We perform all sorts of sorcery with our blade welder at work and yes, you can make a good blade out of scraps or shorten/lengthen as desired.

I lucked into a no name chicom unit for cheap, $60 and it was brand new in a swap shop.

I asked for a demonstration before putting up the $200 asking price and the weld button broke and was stuck on disintegrating the blade section.

Boght it for scrap on the spot and installed a new .50c button. Works great.
 
It's crooked in the other plane. i.e. it moves front to back as the weld passes. I could cut it out and redo it.
 
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