Cutting Hardened Steel

What RJ said.
Using a Dremel and a cut off wheel will leave a radius in the bottom of the groove. Even with a tool post grinder it will be had to keep the corners square.
A radius in the bottom of the grove will allow the ring to easily pop off under load. It is surprising just how small of a radius can make the ring pop off. The sides of the groove MUST also be perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the the shaft. otherwise it is a ramp that will allow the ring to come off. Where I work we were having an issue with rings popping off under load. It took a magnifying glass to find the radius in the bottom of the groove. They sharpened the tool and all was good again.

Your best bet will be a carbide parting or grooving tool of the correct width with the sharpest corners possible.
 
I wouldn't even think twice about using a higher quality top-notch style grooving insert. We use .047 width in 50-55HRC 440C stainless and it has never been an issue.
 
depends on the hardness. If it's too hard for carbide, cbn would likely cut it, but the tooling will probably set you back more than farming it out to a well equipped shop.
 
Thanks for the heads-up on retaining rings coming off, I never even thought about that but it does make sense. My application isn't inside a transmission so I'll see how my retaining groove works. If it gives me trouble I'll probably just upgrade the ballscrew to a NSK or something better than the Chinese one I have.

John
 
Topnotch grooving tool would do the job . I use them on Thompson Rod all the time . No problem .
 
I think I have it beat. Using the damaged piece to experiment I notched it with a carbide insert. Once through I used a file to cut the groove.

For the new part I'll buy a proper grooving tool. What is recommended?

I borrowed a tool post gringer and will try that on the damaged piece tomorrow.

Thanks for the infor about the radius problem.
 
Always look at the c-clip their is a ground side and a rounded side. Always put the clip ground side towards loads. The rounded side will also cause it to jump the groove.
 
ezduzit said:
Negative. Always place the ground side AWAY from the loads. On second thought, perhaps I misread your post. :)
Click to expand...

I think I miswrote it. You know what I was meaning. You want the ground flat surface to be on the load.
 
Like Bakrch says - just cut it. Carbide is really hard. I've bored bearing inner races, I've cut a ball from a big ball bearing, I've cut the hard portion of HSS drill bits, I've threaded induction hardened shafting - the carbide does not last very long (the chips come off as tiny blue curls). Make your set up as stiff as possible. Should be no problem. If it were me - I have a Top-Notch grooving tool holder, and I'd grind an old insert to whatever thickness was needed for said snap ring.

Let us know how you make out.
 
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