Cutting Oil

[Smithdoor]

FYI
If you doing paint and welding dry is the best no clean up need to use cut parts
Most machine shop doing machine work after cutting will use water coolants

Dave

 

[abrace]

FYI
If you doing paint and welding dry is the best no clean up need to use cut parts
Most machine shop doing machine work after cutting will use water coolants
Dave

Thanks.

I just burned right through some Mobilmet on some angle iron with 6011 rod. It eats mobilmet for breakfast...mig and definitely tig, different story..hehe.

Point taken though, band saw blades aren't that expensive.

On a side note these Olson blades I have been using seem pretty good.

 

[Smithdoor]

At one time I would cut over 100 tons of steel per year with two band saws note he also debur or drill the parts as the saws cut
I had lot time to spend on cutting steel and found dry work great
The only time I use coolant was cutting Aluminum and if we were just cutting a few bars use WD40

Dave

Thanks.

I just burned right through some Mobilmet on some angle iron with 6011 rod. It eats mobilmet for breakfast...mig and definitely tig, different story..hehe.

Point taken though, band saw blades aren't that expensive.

On a side note these Olson blades I have been using seem pretty good.

 

[tincture500]

I used bar and chain oil. Buy a quart for 3.50. It's great as it hangs with the metal being cut. Use the same with a squirt of moly oil for threading. It can be thinned with some power steering fluid. Rxman

 

[ch2co]

I've been using Rigid threading oil for work on mild steel. I've tried other cutting oils but the odor and smoke was objectionable. Someone above suggested possibly more "organic" oils, and I just tried some canola oil and was amazed! Seemed to be as good of an oil as the Rigid and what little odor and smoke there was was very pleasant, it almost made me hungry . It couldn't get any cheaper.

Has anyone else used this stuff?? Comments?

CHuck the grumpy old guy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[planeflyer21]

I've been using Rigid threading oil for work on mild steel. I've tried other cutting oils but the odor and smoke was objectionable. Someone above suggested possibly more "organic" oils, and I just tried some canola oil and was amazed! Seemed to be as good of an oil as the Rigid and what little odor and smoke there was was very pleasant, it almost made me hungry . It couldn't get any cheaper.

Has anyone else used this stuff?? Comments?

CHuck the grumpy old guy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of my instructors said he liked to use Crisco cooking oil on his home shop lathe. I had thought he meant the lard substitute, not the liquid. The solid shortening is quite the chip magnet.

 

[ch2co]

One other advantage to using Canola oil is that it its so much easier to clean up, and it doesn't smell like **** when you get in on your hands.
I realize that this isn't a production cutting oil, but for the small one-off job it works great. I hear that Avocado oil and Walnut oil have even higher
smoke temperatures, but after going to the grocery store and seeing the price for these, Canola oil seems hard to beat.

CHuck the grumpy (and sort of weird) old guy

 

[janvanruth]

Canola oil does work fine
In the old days it was the number one
Problem is that, if left on the lathe, albeit a thin layer, it will turn into a sticky varnish and is very hard to get rid off, it wont dissolve in oils.
I tried it, as i dont like the fumes of mineral oils very much, but decided against it after having to clean up the lathe and having to use a very nasty chemical to get rid of it.

 

[ch2co]

Jan
Polymerization of a cutting oil is something that I would never have considered. Yes it could possibly be a problem if used a lot and not cleaned off thoroughly.
I have dealt with polymerized greases found in telescope mounts and it is a real problem. Many of the Asian built telescope mounts have a black grease in them that turns into a very sticky tar substance which doesn't lend itself to precision gearing very well. Its a real mess to clean up. I cut steel to seldom the I don't think that I have to worry too much about this problem, but its a good thing to consider when using cooking oils to lubricate cutting tools. But it smells so good!

CHuck the grumpy old guy

 

[Heavycrimp]

I mostly saw dry and occasionally use paraffin or a bar of Ivory soap (whichever I first lay my hands upon). Just let it run against the blade for a few seconds. With some of the nastier grades of stainless, I set up my little mist coolant to just sputter a little coolant on the blade. I then make sure to take a blow gun and clean the works out with compressed air. When running coolants or oils on a dry-cut saw, the tiny chips can tend to congregate on ribs, corners, etc and rust into a solid mass. They can then slough off at the most inconvenient times and wedge between the blade and the wheel. At best, this causes blade breakage or belt slippage. It can also cause self-destruction of the innards if the above does not happen. I am not a lucky person.......