D 1-X spindle mount adapter

matthewsx

matthewsx

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My new to me Bolton 13x40 has a funky bolted on chuck which seems more like what you'd see on a mini lathe than something of this size. I was thinking of making or sourcing some kind of adapter that could be bolted to the spindle and would accept D 1-4 or 1-5 backplates or chucks.

This guy http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=4249 claims to have done it with a threaded spindle so it could concievably be done. Has anyone on here done such a thing and if so do you have any tips for me.

This will obviously be a project for after I get the major problems fixed but I would like to plan ahead if possible.

DSCN1470.JPG

John
 
What type (specification) of spindle nose does it have?

One obvious issue with using an adapter is increasing the overhang, which increases bearing loads, reduces stiffness and consumes some of your working envelope.
 
extropic said:
What type (specification) of spindle nose does it have?

One obvious issue with using an adapter is increasing the overhang, which increases bearing loads, reduces stiffness and consumes some of your working envelope.
Click to expand...

That’s one of the reasons I’m looking into this. The spindle just has a flat the backing plat is bolted to like a mini lathe. If I can do this it might actually help to have more overhang depending on how the gap repair goes. I’m not too worried about loosing working space or rigidity, I did trade for a 6” Craftsman after all :grin:

john
 
I'm still in the dark here. I'm not familiar with your lathe. When I Google "Bolton 13x40" I see a CNC lathe. Is that what you have?
I couldn't find it on LathesUK. Does it have clones with different names?
I don't know anything about mini-lathes. It's hard to believe that a 13" CNC lathe spindle nose has only a flat face mount without any registration features (pilot, taper, pins) to establish concentricity. It's also difficult to believe that the spindle nose is proprietary and doesn't conform to some known standard.
Then you mention a "gap repair". What gap repair? Is there a different thread regarding this lathe?
Totally in the dark here.
 
How close can you get to the chuck with the tool if the gap is not installed? That lathe sounds like a real basket case. Did you do a test cut on it yet?
 
It should be doable, John. I do agree with the overhang reducing rigidity but you won't know how much impact this will have until you try it, right? Of greater concern to me is the stacking tolerances such an arrangement brings so you'll have to make sure that the camlock adapter plate is accurately mounted. I think you can pull this off.
 
OK. I found your main (I think) thread about this lathe.

I've never owned a gap bed lathe but I've read that once the piece is removed, it's unlikely to ever be precisely aligned with the bed again.
Having the gap filler broken in two may further exacerbate precise alignment. :grin:
How about putting the gap filler repair at the bottom of the action-item list?

If you actually make a spindle nose adapter it will add at least 2" to the spindle nose, covering some of that gap.
 
Sorry, here's a picture of the machine in question. I've been working these days so much less time on the forum (or in the shop)....

DSCN1439.JPG

Typical low end Chinese production. Yes I knew it was a project when I got it but seemed like an okay trade for a 6" Craftsman. The gap coming out was a surprise but fortunately it didn't go through anyone's windshield when it happened. Also fortunate I was able to recover it from the freeway median.

The center of the cross slide is about 6" from the front of the chuck without going past the gap and can get about 2 or 3" closer with the compound at a right angle. So, it might be helpful if I can make it accurate enough.

I have a phase converter coming so I should be able to fire it up when I get back here in a week or so. Building an adapter vs. fixing the gap is kind of a chicken and egg deal where I don't know if I can make one on this lathe without getting closer to the spindle.

It's entirely possible all I'll end up with is scrap metal but I figure it's worth a try.


JOhn
 
I knew you'd posted a picture previously, but I was have difficulty finding it. (operator error, blaming it on the heat.)
Found it -=- Here -=-
Looks so similar to my Taiwan 1440 Birmingham. Do the tags note what year was this one was made in?

I prefer the style of the Power Lever and the way it is 'Doglegged' compared to how the Birmingham is, I may ask you for some detailed pictures in the future.

Do you have a paper or electronic copy of the manual?

matthewsx said:
Sorry, here's a picture of the machine in question. I've been working these days so much less time on the forum (or in the shop)....

View attachment 332025

Typical low end Chinese production. Yes I knew it was a project when I got it but seemed like an okay trade for a 6" Craftsman. The gap coming out was a surprise but fortunately it didn't go through anyone's windshield when it happened. Also fortunate I was able to recover it from the freeway median.

The center of the cross slide is about 6" from the front of the chuck without going past the gap and can get about 2 or 3" closer with the compound at a right angle. So, it might be helpful if I can make it accurate enough.

I have a phase converter coming so I should be able to fire it up when I get back here in a week or so. Building an adapter vs. fixing the gap is kind of a chicken and egg deal where I don't know if I can make one on this lathe without getting closer to the spindle.

It's entirely possible all I'll end up with is scrap metal but I figure it's worth a try.


JOhn
Click to expand...
 
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