Dead Blow Hammer

I have lead hammers and use them for all my shop work; I have the mold and re cast them when they get beat up. Plain lead is a poor material for hammers, it is too soft, the ideal temper being automotive wheel weights, but every time it is melted, it loses antimony from oxidation, so occasionally, the antimony has to be added in the form of a master alloy containing 30% antimony and 70% lead. Pure antimony has too high a melting point to be used in that form and also produces toxic fumes in purple smoke when melted. One time, I made a batch of low grade babbitt for a job I was working on for a historic water powered grist mill in my area, made it using pure antimony melted first, then lead added to the melt, making my own master alloy, which was later added to more lead and pure tin; yes, I specially bought and used a metal fume respirator specifically for metals such as antimony, and I did not suffer any ill effects.
 
I have several, 14oz, 16oz,..and two are new, a Lixie 1 lb. and a Wiha 18oz. All have replaceable tips. I have a raw hide mallet and brass, both light.
I got interested in the Wiha when I saw that Dark Zero bought and liked it.
Bronze is great for auto use, non marring against steel. The Wiha pictured, It is simple and has a great feel to it. Very solid feel.51Rc50XwPtL._SL1000_.jpg
 
I've been thinking about a lead knocker for a while too but still have yet to make one, despite having several hundred pounds of lead kicking around. I do find this little gaffer very handy though -- it's just a leftover piece of 3/4" square brass with a copper pipe cap for an end. Less bouncy than the brass alone, and a little softer and less prone to sliding too. It's nice for close quarters where handles might get in the way. Just a tic over 7 ounces.

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-frank
 
Bob Korves said:
There are no doubt better ones out there, but the orange one at Harbor Freight are cheap and do the job just fine for all work that can accept a striking face of that width. They seem to be indestructible, at least in my hands. They are magnetic, so I assume the shot inside them is steel, but they do not bounce, at least not enough to matter. Some others, like the Lixie above, Armstrong, and others, are really nice quality tools, and some have smaller faces to attack smaller surfaces with, but are also a lot more expensive.
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Yep. Me to Bob.
 
mikey said:
My new favorite hammer is this one: https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-80225-1...e+Dead+Blow+Hammer+with+Cushioned+Grip+Handle

Filled with steel shot, faces are replaceable and it is very easy to deliver a light controlled blow. I use it to tap my vise into position. I have heavier hammers but around my machines, this is the one I use.
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Boy, do I ever second this choice ! I had a Lixie but found the head a bit too long some times. This ones, in my opinion is worth the investment.
 
My dead blow is solid copper... Been a good hammer...
 
I have a bunch of lead. Should I make a hammer? What size? What would I use it for other than lead poisoning?
Robert
 
Best dead blow hammer is made from wheel weights, soft lead is too soft, wheel weights are hardened with antimony; copper is too hard for most work.
 
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