Delta Dp-600 Drill Press Restoration (photo Intensive)

CluelessNewB said:
This link will help you a bit with Delta serial numbers:
http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx


And the manual:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/3231.pdf

Catalog:
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/1696.pdf
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Thanks for the links !! Couldn't find my serial# in the chart so I'm guessing it was made earlier than '42 ?? Gotta clean off the workbench & get this thing apart to start the restoration. Might try using the HF 90-amp flux core wire welder on low setting with slow wire speed to fill the holes in the table if it won'y cause it to warp, think the heat would be low enough (??)
 
"I'm guessing it was made earlier than '42 ?"

That would be my guess also. ​
 
56type said:
Greta job on the resto. !! I just picked up this one and had no idea what to do with it til I saw this thread. Have no idea what year/model this on is since only the serial# plate & "DP 220" cast into the head gave me any clue. Searching for any parts diagrams so I can do a full resto. on it.
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Thanks! I had a DP-220 before I bought my DP-600. They are good machines. I wouldn't try to weld up the pockmarks in the table. You could cause cracking in the cast iron and actually make it worse. The holes in your table appear to be shallow and don't look like they would structurally weaken the table. I've seen tables that were nearly cut in half by drill marks. Just tell folks that your drill was manufactured before WW2, and during the next 77 years only 3 (or however many holes there are) people were stupid enough to drill into the table.

Spindle bearings are available, but it will take a good bearing guy to know what to order. The bearings in mine are called "felt seal bearings" even though felt seals were no longer used at the time. The seals are steel, but the spacing and exact shape of the bearing will match the originals, and they will fit right. Going by bearing number alone will get the wrong ones.

New spindle bearings and new motor bearings will make it run as smooth and true as it did when it was new. Quiet, too. It looks a little intimidating, but take some photos as you disassemble it to help you put it back together the same way. It wasn't a difficult job.

Good luck!

GG
 
GarageGuy said:
Thanks! I had a DP-220 before I bought my DP-600. They are good machines. I wouldn't try to weld up the pockmarks in the table. You could cause cracking in the cast iron and actually make it worse. The holes in your table appear to be shallow and don't look like they would structurally weaken the table. I've seen tables that were nearly cut in half by drill marks. Just tell folks that your drill was manufactured before WW2, and during the next 77 years only 3 (or however many holes there are) people were stupid enough to drill into the table.

Spindle bearings are available, but it will take a good bearing guy to know what to order. The bearings in mine are called "felt seal bearings" even though felt seals were no longer used at the time. The seals are steel, but the spacing and exact shape of the bearing will match the originals, and they will fit right. Going by bearing number alone will get the wrong ones.

New spindle bearings and new motor bearings will make it run as smooth and true as it did when it was new. Quiet, too. It looks a little intimidating, but take some photos as you disassemble it to help you put it back together the same way. It wasn't a difficult job.

Good luck!

GG
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Thanks. I got it free so I can put some $$ into it without too much worry. It "seems" solid enough just trying to flex the moving parts by hand. I dug some crud out of one of the 6 holes to check the depth, only worry is the arc the series of holes makes right up to the edge of the slot in the table. Maybe I'll look into what epoxy-type products are available for this type of repair...Just don't want a crack to develop along that series of holes. I did plug it in and the motor does run.
 
There is something very satisfying about having an old machine that works like new. :grin:

"JB Weld" epoxy is my favorite, and will fill the holes. If you get the kind for metal, I think it is gray in color. The table won't crack because of six small holes, so I wouldn't worry about that. This would simply be a cosmetic repair.

GG
 
GG,

Not to hi-jack your thread...But do you have any idea how the spindle pulley is removed on the DP220 ?? Took mine apart today (man, that thing is HEAVY) and couldn't find any set screws or any indication of how to remove it. I'd post some pics but photobucket has put a stop to that. I'd like to get the spindle pulley off in order to get at the bearings and repaint everything back to stock colors. It still seems to have the original working motor according to the motor tag. I see some evapo-rust and a wire brush in my immediate future, along with a can of that Rustoleum gray paint. Thanks.
 
56type said:
GG,

Not to hi-jack your thread...But do you have any idea how the spindle pulley is removed on the DP220 ?? Took mine apart today (man, that thing is HEAVY) and couldn't find any set screws or any indication of how to remove it. I'd post some pics but photobucket has put a stop to that. I'd like to get the spindle pulley off in order to get at the bearings and repaint everything back to stock colors. It still seems to have the original working motor according to the motor tag. I see some evapo-rust and a wire brush in my immediate future, along with a can of that Rustoleum gray paint. Thanks.
Click to expand...

You can still post pics directly to the site, which is highly preferred.
 
56type said:
GG,

Not to hi-jack your thread...But do you have any idea how the spindle pulley is removed on the DP220 ?? Took mine apart today (man, that thing is HEAVY) and couldn't find any set screws or any indication of how to remove it. I'd post some pics but photobucket has put a stop to that. I'd like to get the spindle pulley off in order to get at the bearings and repaint everything back to stock colors. It still seems to have the original working motor according to the motor tag. I see some evapo-rust and a wire brush in my immediate future, along with a can of that Rustoleum gray paint. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Mine has a key and set screw holding the motor pulley in place. It was very difficult to remove. I soaked it with PB Blaster daily for two weeks and had to use a gear puller to get it off the shaft. I used plenty of anti-seize when I put it back together.

White vinegar works as good as Evapo-Rust, and is much cheaper. Don't leave anything in vinegar overnight. It will remove metal if you leave it in too long. Usually 3-6 hours will do the job.

I became a big fan of Rustoleum's "Professional" series gray primer and machinery dark gray paint. Sometimes it takes a day or two (depending on the humidity) for it to fully cure into a hard finish, but it has been very durable and has not chipped anywhere yet. I restored a couple of 6" Bridgeport milling vises, and the finish is also very oil resistant.

GG
 
GarageGuy said:
Mine has a key and set screw holding the motor pulley in place. It was very difficult to remove. I soaked it with PB Blaster daily for two weeks and had to use a gear puller to get it off the shaft. I used plenty of anti-seize when I put it back together.

White vinegar works as good as Evapo-Rust, and is much cheaper. Don't leave anything in vinegar overnight. It will remove metal if you leave it in too long. Usually 3-6 hours will do the job.

I became a big fan of Rustoleum's "Professional" series gray primer and machinery dark gray paint. Sometimes it takes a day or two (depending on the humidity) for it to fully cure into a hard finish, but it has been very durable and has not chipped anywhere yet. I restored a couple of 6" Bridgeport milling vises, and the finish is also very oil resistant.

GG
Click to expand...
I saw the pulley set screw on the motor pulley but can't seem t find anything similar on the spindle pulley. There was a single bolt & washer in the head just below pulley in the front behind the "conehead" pulley shield. Removing it didn't seem to effect anything though. Need to get it removed so I can clean that area and ready it for paint. I noticed when taking things apart that the machine's stock color seems to be a medium gray, I'll give the Rustoleum a try since you have had such good luck with it and it sounds durable. My return spring for the quill is broken too, though it looks as if there's enough spring material in there to make a few springs so I may try to bend the end and fit it back into the spring slot on the quill handle assembly.

I've got a full can of PB Blaster ready to go. I may use the gloss black appliance epoxy on the motor parts and bake it, since it's very durable as a firearms finish when baked at 450 degrees for about an hour. Turns out a nice satin black. I also considered boiling a few pieces to turn the red oxide (rust) into black oxide. Thanks for the tip on the white vinegar, I'll get a bath of it going as soon as I have the time to monitor it to make sure the parts are removed and rinsed as soon as they're done.
 
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