Dividing head worm gear housing fix

the housing is rotated from the outside of the dividing head to fine tune the meshing of the worm to eliminate backlash. It needs to work! my first instinct would be to braze it back on, but there is the problem of the dissimilat amount of metals in the two components, the ring would be melting by the time the body got up to brazing temperature, you would have to clamp them together and put virtually all the heat on the body of the part. By the looks of it you could make another one out of a hunk of suitably sized round bar, but a lot of hand filing or grinding if you don't have a milling machine! mild steel round bar, even free cutting would be suitable for this part, it is not doing anything special!
 
brino said:
My first instinct would be to braze it with a gas torch.
Click to expand...

Gas torch with silver braze

Or if you are feeling lucky::

Butane torch with silver solder

But make a fixture to hold the stuff in alignment while heating, fluxing, and cooling.
 
Cast iron is lovely to work with, although a bit messy. Generally speaking, it cuts real nice, leaves small chips, and doesn't stick or gall to your cutting tools.

That said, 12L14 should be just dandy to make a replacement part from scratch. It should actually be a bit stronger than the cast iron.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Silly thought, Isn't that the brand that QMT sells. Could be you could get the part from Matt?
 
Suzuki4evr said:
Anyhow, I have a dividing head wich I picked up a while back at the scrapyard and ...
Then I found that the end of the wormgear housing was broken of. That part is very thin walled. I don't how or why it broke.
Well I want to fix it and I came to the conclusion that I have to remake the part,because I don't think there is really a way to just add a new section on.
Click to expand...

It looks like it's a centering scheme for the disk that fits inside the collar end.
So, you could turn the collar O.D. to make a shoulder, fit a tube onto that shoulder, braze/silver solder the
tube on, and machine the tube (which can be a lot tougher stuff than cast iron) to suitable dimensions.
As long as you turn it after the braze, it shouldn't be hard to make it accurate.

That way, there's no crying need to attach to the small area which is already cracked/damaged and of uncertain shape;
a turned surface to a small shoulder will define the braze joint and give lots of surface area for bonding.
 
whitmore said:
It looks like it's a centering scheme for the disk that fits inside the collar end.
So, you could turn the collar O.D. to make a shoulder, fit a tube onto that shoulder, braze/silver solder the
tube on, and machine the tube (which can be a lot tougher stuff than cast iron) to suitable dimensions.
As long as you turn it after the braze, it shouldn't be hard to make it accurate.

That way, there's no crying need to attach to the small area which is already cracked/damaged and of uncertain shape;
a turned surface to a small shoulder will define the braze joint and give lots of surface area for bonding.
Click to expand...
This sounds like the way to go and I got a better understanding of the brazing part. I have a few jobs to finnish up but then I will give it a go and document and post it here as I go. Thanks everyone would helped solve this problem. BEST FORUM EVER!!!!!!!!!!
 
You could Tig braze it, if you have access to a TIG that is!
 
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