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Winner DIY 5-C Collet CHuck

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ozzie46

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I have been working on this for about a month now and finally finished it. What can I say, I'm sloooooow.

* I can not claim any originality in design on this except where I deviated from the plans .
A gentleman by the name of Pat Loop was the designer and builder of the original. I am indebted to him for his design.
*As I don't know the copy right status of the plans, I am not posting tem here. If anyone knows if the plans are made to be freely distributed let me know and I will post them.

*I found the plans on the web about 2005 and just now worked up the courage to try and build it.

* Here is a shot of the parts all laid out.




DSC03030.jpg



* The first thing I made was the Collet holder. It is mild steel


DSC03037.jpg



*The 3 ears you see sticking up were supposed to be made as one pice with the holder,but as there is a rather large groove for the protruding ridge on the collet nut and I was afraid that I would have trouble machining it. As it turned out I was right as I had trouble just trying to machine the .060 deep bearing grooves. So I made the ears* from 3 seperate pieces and after the back plate was made I bolted it all up and welded them onto the collet holder amd machined them. Interupted cuts, Yikes!! But I got it done.

*The smaller dia. that sticks out the front was made as a seperate piece also as I didn't have a large enough piece of stock to machine it in one go. I machined a recess about .250 deep in the 5" dia piece and then made the smaller piece an interference fit and pressed it in, then bolted it with 1/4-20 cap socket head cap srews, it will never come off.

* The next piece was the back plate. It's made out of cast iron.


DSC03031.jpg



I made a copy of my spindle threads to use as a gauge when I threaded the back plate so it would be a good fit. (Sorry no pic of it) Actually I made 2 but screwed up the first one.


*Next up was the collet nut. It's mild steel and I used a collet as a thread gauge to get a good fit here also.

* *Here you can see the ridge I refered to earlier.


DSC03036.jpg




* I drilled 1/4 in holes around it to use a tommy bar for tightening up the collet and also* used a 3/16 ball end mill for finger holds to aid in starting the nut on the collet.


DSC03033.jpg





* *This piece here's only function , as far as I can tell, is to hold the key that stops the collet from rotating. Look closely and you can see the key at the bottom on the inside dia. It is held in by 3 countersunk 6-32 allen head cap screws.


DSC03034.jpg



*In these shots you can see the over 260 1/8th in chrome steel balls that make up the bearings. There are about 134 balls on the collet holder part, then the collet nut is put on and another approx 134 balls are put on with a little litium grease for lube.


DSC03035.jpg



Then everything was matched up and bolted together with 6 1/4-20 x 2in SHCS.


DSC03039.jpg



* I mounted it on the lathe and clocked it with a dial indicator and had about .002 total indicated run out. I loosened the screws and gave it a little love tap with a plastic hammer and it showed .0005 TIR. I tightened everything up again and put a 3/16 collet in with a 3/16 end mill in shank first and left some of the sha exposed so it could use a dial test indicator this time and it showed .0005 TI.* I called it darn good and started to make it shiny. After about 3 hours work with files and emery cloth this is how it came out.

*Without a collet.


DSC03043.jpg



DSC03042.jpg



*With a collet.


DSC03048.jpg




I did some web searching and found out the Chuck was featured in the old "Projects in Metal " Magazine, which I believe is now "Home Shop Machinist".


* The issue is Volume 1 No. 3 - June 1988.

Ron
 

Old Iron

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Nice job on the chuck, It looks as good as the one I got from Tools4Cheap.

Paul
 

November X-ray

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Good Job! Thanks for the pictures, do you think instead of welding the three stand off pieces that these could be dowel pinned instead and then captured between the two outer pieces with SHCS?

Thanks!
 

ozzie46

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Thanks Charley ( sorry but that old commercial comes to mind, you know "Sorry Charley only the best for Starki_ _")

No offense meant.

Thanks Paul

November X-Ray, I think you probaly could use say 1/8 dowel pin but nothing larger unless you made the stand offs longer.

Ron
 

Charley Davidson

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Thanks Charley ( sorry but that old commercial comes to mind, you know "Sorry Charley only the best for Starki_ _")

No offense meant.
That's OK, a lesbian told me the same thing once "Sorry Charley but we like good tuna too"
 

joe_m

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Excellent chuck! The finishing touches (making it shiny) really make it look like a professional store-bought piece. Thanks for the write-up.
 
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Nice work. That Chuck was also a published articla back in the 80's or early 90's in HSM I believe. I'll see if I can find the issues.

"Billy G" :thinking:
 

ozzie46

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Thanks joe_m


Thanks Billy G.

This is what I poste dunder the last picture;
(I did some web searching and found out the Chuck was featured in the old "Projects in Metal " Magazine, which I believe is now "Home Shop Machinist".


* The issue is Volume 1 No. 3 - June 1988.)

Ron
 

7HC

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That looks so good now it's polished, although it does now have the effect of making the surrounding lathe look shabby! :lmao:

Just out of interest (it's too advanced a project for me at the moment), I searched for the article and found the original as a PDF straight away.
It's a description of how to build it and the drawings are included; so for anyone wanting to build one the plans are readily available.

M
 

ozzie46

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Thanks for looking in M,.

Yeah the lathe is a little dirty but what can I say, it's meant to be used. LOL

I see some of the lathes in threads and I can't understand how they keep them looking so good. I clean mine after use and it still looks dirty. My hands get black,the lathe or mill gets black and the bench gets black. OH right. CAST IRON!!


Don't sell youself short. It's not that hard of a project. Just takes some thinking about and a good boring bar for the collet hole.

Ron
 

Rbeckett

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Ozzie,
That is definately a thing of beauty. Nice work and a great item to have for a lathe or mill. Thanks for a great write up of the project.
Bob
 
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That looks so good now it's polished, although it does now have the effect of making the surrounding lathe look shabby! :lmao:

Just out of interest (it's too advanced a project for me at the moment), I searched for the article and found the original as a PDF straight away.
It's a description of how to build it and the drawings are included; so for anyone wanting to build one the plans are readily available.

M

Would you please find the link again and import it to this site. I have been unsuccessful in locating it.

"Billy G"
 
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In PDF form it is public domain. It may be used by all; Thank you for taking the time to find it for us.

"Billy G" :))
 

November X-ray

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Thanks for the Link, the plans print off nice in 11" x 17" size. Now the challange will be where to find the material and the time!
 
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Nice! Thanks for the share!
 

7HC

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You're welcome guys.

Now the challenge will be to make one that looks as good as Ron's. :))

M
 
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You're welcome guys.

Now the challenge will be to make one that looks as good as Ron's. :))

M[/QUOT



Nope, the challenge would be to make it look different than his and have it work the same. :lmao::lmao::lmao:

"Billy G" :whistle::whistle:
 

November X-ray

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Right now my challange is finding the materials at a cost that is not more than simply buying a pre made import version. I found a Bison 5c for just a little more than I can find all the larger steel components. But I still like the idea of being able to make it yourself!!!
 

7HC

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Nope, the challenge would be to make it look different than his and have it work the same. :lmao::lmao::lmao:

"Billy G" :whistle::whistle:
Hmmm, maybe add some fancy engraving. :thinking:

M
 

7HC

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Right now my challange is finding the materials at a cost that is not more than simply buying a pre made import version. I found a Bison 5c for just a little more than I can find all the larger steel components. But I still like the idea of being able to make it yourself!!!
How did the materials price out? The cheapest non-Bison 5c I could find was $130.

M
 

November X-ray

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How did the materials price out? The cheapest non-Bison 5c I could find was $130.

M
A little over $300 with shipping, that 5-1/4" stock gets heavy quick, plus I quoted it in 4140 not 1018 but there was only about 10% difference.
 

Charley Davidson

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I cast my vote for project of the month on this project, Now how do I make it count?:headscratch:
 

ozzie46

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Thanks for the vote Charley.

As far as material,I used all scap metal for this. The cast iron for the back plate was given to me by a friend and I bought the rest of the steel at a scrap metal place. He sells steel and iron at .25 cents a pound. the only piece that started out round was the cast iron for the back plate. The back plate could just as well be steel too.

I reckon I have maybe $30 to $40 in mine in materials. $10 dollars of that was for cap screws. I bought some 2.00 in and some 1 1/2 in. 6 each.

I did a lot of sawing on my 4 x6 saw to get square things close to round so I could turn them on the lathe.

The 2 1/2 dia nose pice started out as close to 4.00 dia roller I found at the scrap yard several years ago.

Ron
 
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I cast my vote for project of the month on this project, Now how do I make it count?:headscratch:

Just PM Tony Wells with your vote. He will take it from there.

"Billy G" :whistle:
 

12bolts

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Ron, Sorry my last post was so short. I started the "reply to" and then had to rush off....
Mate you've done a great job there, and (thanks to 7HC) I am also going to make one.
With the polish job it looks as good as a bought one. The only giveaway is the weld fillets still visible. Thinking about a work around there....
This too is going to be referred to Tony for project of the month.

Cheers Phil
 
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