Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical position?

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Hi everyone,
I am a newbie, and very safety conscious, and tonight when cutting some 1018 steel 3/16" thick, on the vertical set up, I felt very uneasy, as the blade guard was not made to come all the way down to the height you are cutting at.
This left about 4 inches of exposed blade, when working very close to the cutting area.
Does anyone know a fix or upgrade.
Do I just need to get a dedicated metal cutting vertical bandsaw?
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

Rather than try to bring all the mods made to that saw here, please Google 4X6 Metal Cutting Band Saw. You will find plenty of info on it. If you do make one of the mods it would be nice to share it here. Here is just one of many.

http://www.mini-lathe.com/Bandsaw/Bandsaw.htm

"Billy G"
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

If I remember correctly, the "lower" guide is also adjustable and can be raised quite a bit, and long with lowering the "upper" guide, there shouldn't be too much exposed blade. Besides, if you are pushing the stock so hard you are worried about slipping a finger into the blade, I'd think about a new blade. Also, if you are cutting contours, there are tooling aids that keep your fingers away from the blade.
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

Tony Wells said:
If I remember correctly, the "lower" guide is also adjustable and can be raised quite a bit, and long with lowering the "upper" guide, there shouldn't be too much exposed blade. Besides, if you are pushing the stock so hard you are worried about slipping a finger into the blade, I'd think about a new blade. Also, if you are cutting contours, there are tooling aids that keep your fingers away from the blade.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tony,
You are correct about the lower guide being adjustable, I have them both adjusted to the maximum amount, and still there is 4 " of exsposed blade.
This is my first time using the vertical aspect, and cutting 1018 into a shape, with 1/2" blade I had to mostly make relief cuts.
I did have to give a consistant push, using my hand and a push stick, not a new blade.
Should a new blade cut like butter? I was using some light oil to aid in Cutting.
Would 7075 aluminum 1/2" thick by 1" wide gum up fhe blade?
thanks
Jon
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

I did not know that Irwin made anything that was good these days. I use Lennox saws,but I weld my own. I'd just use a push stick on your saw. It isn't going fast enough to cut your hand off. Might make a nasty gash. Push stick is always recommended. You still don't want to get a cut that will have cutting oil and chips in it.
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

There's a yahoogroups forum dedicated to 4x6 bandsaws, and most of the group seem to have HF or equivalent. I don't recall this particular topic being discussed, but I'd be surprised if it hadn't been.
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

kd4gij said:
When cutting aluminum use wd40 7075 should not be gummy. Whaat blade are you using? The harbor freight blades are junk. Enco sels a Irwin blade for that saw that is much better http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-4930&PMPXNO=21108755&PARTPG=INLMK32
Click to expand...

They also have Starrett which is a real good blade.
Another thing is make a new base for that saw if you have the stock base and it will make it more stable weight wise and length wise.
 
Re: Does anyone know how to make the HF 4 by 6 horiz/vertical bandsaw safer to use on vertical posit

I guess I'm going to go against the grain here a little. For sawing aluminum, totally dry is my recommendation unless you have flood coolant. Any oily, dribbled on lube will likely allow chips to stick to the blade and be carried all the way around to the cut for a second time, whereas dry they tend to just fall away. 7075 is not a gummy material, and especially if the proper tooth count is used, the chips will not stick in the gullet and pose problems.

I know that for most of us, keeping several different blade on hand for different materials isn't really practical, but there are valid reasons for using different pitches for different types of cut.

Your 1/2 x 1" should cut clean with a 10 pitch blade. Light pressure makes for thin chips, and highest blade speed you have will work best.
 
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