Does watching YT scribing make you cringe?

@rwm Ergonomically it is easier to stay perpenticular to the sides with a hermaphrodite caliper, but that's jus a nit. Either way, using one caliper or the other will yield similar results. I'd use the really cheap ones to make my marks, but 1) I don't have a set, 2) cheap ones a very soft, and then damages is inevitable. As I stated before, after hundreds of scribe marks, no damage to my Mit vernier, nothing visible, even under a microscope.

Just for the new guys, guys like Dabbler who have been doing stuff for many years and know how to use calipers to scribe layout lines can do so without damaging a fine caliper. I have hard evidence that this does not apply to some other people.

I bought a used 4" Mitutoyo dial caliper off eBay. It was really nice and worked fine. It even passed my calibration checks with my gage blocks BUT the edges of the tips are rounded enough to see with the naked eye and there is no question that these fine calipers were used by some bozo to scribe lines in metal, not ink.

The lesson for me was to not risk my fine Etalon and Mitutoyo calipers for scribing. I bought a cheap Chinese digital caliper for scribing and then I try to use it with what little skill I have.
 
@mikey thanks for the comment. as I said above I only lightly scribe SOFT materials, which is why I've never damaged my Mit. I have 2 iGauging calipers, and they have stood up as well. In hard materials or rough cut steel stock I always use a carbide scriber.

Today I'm ordering a Mitutoyo 'absolute' caliper - finally a real measuring device! my old Mit was a vernier - yes vernier - scale one.
 
I don't know about you, Dabbler, but I'm old enough now that I absolutely love my Mitutoyo digital caliper. I bought a model 500-752-20 and the digits are large enough to see without glasses on. That thing is accurate enough to read dead on with Mitutoyo Grade 0 Cerastone gauge blocks - I was totally amazed! I mean, there was ZERO deviation from those blocks so we're talking at least a 4-6 microinch resolution, possibly better. I honestly don't think you can do better than a Mit digital caliper and for what it's worth, I think you're making a good decision.

I also checked my Etalon analog dial caliper with those blocks and it read dead on, too! Only thing is that I have to use glasses to read it nowadays ... :(


 
Today I'm ordering a Mitutoyo 'absolute' caliper - finally a real measuring device! my old Mit was a vernier - yes vernier - scale one.
Oooh - and a touch of envy! I recently (at Christmas) purchased a Mitutoyo Absolute - for my daughter's significant other. I already have the IGaging OriginCal, but once I checked out the Mitutoyo, I think I knew that one day, the next caliper could well be that model.

The OriginCal, like the Mitutoyo, has that property of being able to read zero, relatively independent of the thumb pressure, but the Mitutoyo is that bit better. The OriginCal also lacks auto swicth-off, but uses so little current that it does not seem to matter much if one sometimes forgets.

My 350mm caliper is by Kanon, entirely mechanical. I would say comparable to Mitutoyo. I think I have a bit of a liking for stuff that does not depend on batteries! For @mikey , it has been mentioned in this thread that you can grind and stone on the back edges to restore the points.
 
I have a Mitutoyo 500-752-20 and I like it. The only "problem" I have with it is that damn 4th digit in imperial that only reads 0 or 5. I never work in tenths. The extra digit always causes me to mis-read the number. If I put tape over it I can't read .01mm. Silly problem I know but I have ruined work because of this.
Robert
 
-- for the first 30 years all I had was a 10$ no name mic and that Mit vernier.

Lately I've managed to obtain a set of Moore and write Mics, from 2-6" and now have it iGauging and the Mit calipers. I now feel like I can measure almost anything! (I also have a cheap 16" digital, and a 24" analog vernier for the bigger stuff)

I'm not a fan of the really inexpensive offsore digital calipers. I don't like the short interval for battery changes. For a guy starting out, they'll do. After all calipers are aproximators, and the real work is done with the micrometer.
 
hey guys you will need theses for that one job
I love spending other peoples money
Really!! ??
That's like enough for (say) a PM lathe AND a mill!
Also - there be no extra special technology for any part of it extending past the first few inches!
Nor would I put any much value in the "Finished Wood Case" as compared to a couple of pallet crates!

Starrett72inch.png

So .. No!
 
Holy metrology, Batman!
 
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