Electric motor repair, Atlas

WesPete66

WesPete66

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I have an Atlas motor that I'd like to bring back to life. It is 1/3 HP, ball bearing, 110 V, 1725 rpm. Unknown how long since it has been used. It looks ok on outside, not rusty.. When I power it up it turns at about 60 rpm, runs in both directions the same. I've typically not messed with motors with issues, just replaced them. But as this is an Atlas original to the machine it's on I'd like to keep this one around.
Is there anything that can be done for this motor? Dis-assemble, clean, lube, etc? New bearings? Any hope for it?
Thanks!
 
you say it is on a machine now, --does it still run slow without the belt hooked up and 110 volts? if so then it probably does have problem with the centrifugal
switch as mentioned.
Dave
 
John is correct, something must be wrong with the start circuit: capacitor, internal start switch, etc.
That is unless there is something mechanically holding the motor back- stuck bearing for example
If the motor shaft spins freely by hand then it's an electrical issue
 
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"does it still run slow without the belt hooked up"

I should have said that, it will not turn the mill & the slow speed is with the belt off.
 
check your voltage to make sure you are getting 110-120 volts at switch and on wires at motor. if you do have full voltage, then you can test for amp draw on start-up if you have an amp meter
Dave
 
Update.. The cent switch seems to be fine. I did clean the contacts. I have a new capacitor on order. I am rewiring the cord and switches.
But there is a resistor soldered across the leads of the old capacitor. Is that normal? How can a capacitor function wired that way?
 

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WesPete66 said:
Update.. The cent switch seems to be fine. I did clean the contacts. I have a new capacitor on order.
But there is a resistor soldered across the leads of the old capacitor. Is that normal? How can a capacitor function wired that way?
Click to expand...
I have seen that before, I think it is done to prevent excessive arcing at the contacts.
 
It's a bleed resistor, common on large capacitors. Dissipates the charge before you get in there and do it across your fingers.

Greg
 
WesPete66 said:
Update.. The cent switch seems to be fine. I did clean the contacts. I have a new capacitor on order. I am rewiring the cord and switches.
But there is a resistor soldered across the leads of the old capacitor. Is that normal? How can a capacitor function wired that way?
Click to expand...

I agree, this is normal. I have heard that it helps prevent arcing, and I've heard violently loud retaliation to that, and that it is unrelated. It DOES provide a bleed to keep the capacitor from remaining charged for any amount of time when it's not in use. That's valid enough for me to leave 'em alone.

In your case, "estimating" the colors, I think you're looking at a resistor that might "bleed' about 25 milliamps of current. It doesn't affect "normal operation" but I don't believe that they are installed when they're not necessary...

My advice is to stick it back as it is/was, and when all else is good, everything will work as designed.
 
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