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EMCO Maximat Mentor V10

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JWW

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New to this site,

I want to know how to safely remove a chuck from my V10 so I don't damage the unobtainable phenolic gears?

Regards,
-JWW:
 

JWW

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Sweet, that's exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks very much.
 

JWW

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I have another question. Just wondering why my carriage quit auto feeding when I flip the handle up or down? It used to work. I've never crashed the lathe. Is there something on the left end (gear box end) that has to be engaged (pulled in our out) besides flipping the handle up or down on the carriage?
 

den-den

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I have another question. Just wondering why my carriage quit auto feeding when I flip the handle up or down? It used to work. I've never crashed the lathe. Is there something on the left end (gear box end) that has to be engaged (pulled in our out) besides flipping the handle up or down on the carriage?
Yes, there are four places that should be checked if the feed shaft is not turning:
* upper left - lever for forward / reverse and feed disconnect
* far left - knob for feed or threading (pull out for threading, push in for feed
* left end of feed shaft - lever for different feed rates
* lower left quick change gear selector

also, it is possible to purchase a standard steel gear and replace on of the "unobtainable" gears although it may take shaving the gears width and boring the ID.
 

mikey

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On the left end of the feed shaft, there is a sleeve that can be moved in or out to engage the shaft. If the feed shaft does not turn then it is either in the disengaged position or the shear pin inside is broken.
 

markba633csi

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I agree with the chuck removal technique, but not re-mounting with a wrench- tightening by hand should be sufficient
M
 

JWW

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Thanks for the suggestions. I will give it a shot tomorrow and see what the situation is. I really like this little lathe for the things I've turned so far (although nothing spectacular).
 

JWW

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Yes, there are four places that should be checked if the feed shaft is not turning:
* upper left - lever for forward / reverse and feed disconnect
* far left - knob for feed or threading (pull out for threading, push in for feed
* left end of feed shaft - lever for different feed rates
* lower left quick change gear selector

also, it is possible to purchase a standard steel gear and replace on of the "unobtainable" gears although it may take shaving the gears width and boring the ID.
Thanks ... I don't know much about the actual operation of the gears but would like to. I did replace one of the fiber gears when I first received the lathe as shown in the link below. I know a couple of the metal gears have "a" chipped tooth, maybe two.

https://pbase.com/smokedaddy/image/107013569
 

JWW

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Update. I haven't used my lathe in a long time due to this situation but wanted to. Now that I have sometime to devote to fixing it, if possible with my abilities, I would like to. I don't know the nomenclature for the items, so I labeled them in the pics.

https://pbase.com/smokedaddy/temp

I also made a quick video that describes the issues and things I don't understand.


Hope this helps,
-JW:
 

JWW

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... looks like I'll need a new belt soon too.

295532
 

mikey

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You essentially have a V10-P; the Mentor just meant it came on a stand.

The first thing I would suggest is that you take the gear train out and clean everything in there. Most problems with sticky gear movement is because of crap in the the gear bores or on the shafts. Take it apart, clean and lube everything and that may resolve your issues in the change gear area. I have no idea what that spare bushing is for but it is probably important. Not sure if it is part of the change gear set that was available for your lathe but please don't discard it.

As for the non-turning feed shaft, I suspect the sacrificial shear pin is broken. That would be part 22 in the IPB that I am attaching. You have to remove the drive shaft to access it. The pin is made from aluminum and is meant to shear under excessive loads; please do not use any other material to replace it.

The leadscrew does not turn unless you are cutting threads, in which case you engage it with the threading lever on the headstock. Likewise, the gear at the bottom of the thread dial indicator at the right side of the saddle is pulled away from contact with the leadscrew until you need it for thread cutting; then you lightly engage it by rotating the indicator and locking down the screw that holds it to the saddle. When you engage the half nuts, which is the lever on the front of the saddle that you said you didn't know what it was for, that causes the saddle to move with the leadscrew to cut threads. It is normally not engaged unless you are cutting threads.

I really think you should consider tearing the lathe apart to clean and lube everything. You can do it with the parts manual below. Leave the spindle and headstock alone unless there is a problem but everything else can be taken apart and cleaned out. This will be good for the lathe and good for you because you'll learn a lot about your lathe.

I also suggest you join the Yahoo Emco Larger Lathes group. Lots of info and help there.
 

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JWW

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I appreciate the help Mike ... looks rather involved. :( Naturally I'll give it a shot and clean everything up. Was hoping it would be something simpler and less work. :cool:

Thanks for the suggestion. I used to belong to the EMCO group and many other Yahoo groups. I really hate the 'format' of the Yahoo groups (unless something has changed). Even the dial up BBS days in the 80's blow away the Yahoo group format.

Even though I'm not a machinist I've made quite a few things with my lathe and mill. Hopefully I'll get this straightened out before I croak and can get back into turning some interesting things.

https://www.pbase.com/smokedaddy/unitron_pier&page=all

Oh, BTW, I assume we're talking about this part?

295550
 

markba633csi

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Nice little lathe you have there- I wanted one of those decades ago when they were still making them.
I agree with you about the Yahoo group format, very hard to navigate
Mark
 

mikey

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Oh, BTW, I assume we're talking about this part?

View attachment 295550
Yeah, item 22. It tends to break if you crash but can let go just from metal fatigue over time. It is light aluminum and I think you can turn one from the stuff from the hardware store.

You made some neat stuff there, JWW. Your call on the tear down. If it was me, I would do it to make sure it serves me well for the next several decades. Good luck.
 

JWW

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I don't mind tearing it down, just dunno if I have the skill to put it back together. I have no spanner wrenches whatsoever and maybe other tools that are necessary.
 

mikey

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You'll need a basic metric tool set, hex wrenches and the parts breakdown. It is simpler than you think. Take lots of pictures and don't force anything. Ask questions as needed and you'll do fine.
 

JWW

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Thanks, I have a ton of tools, just no spanners or unique tools that the tear down might require that I'm not aware of.
 

redgrouse

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I agree with the chuck removal technique, but not re-mounting with a wrench- tightening by hand should be sufficient
M
Hi Mark, sorry but I most defiantly do not agree that tightening by hand is sufficient !
It is VERY important that the chuck is tightened with a wrench or similar, yes during use it will/should tighten due to the cutting action but suppose you were only cutting small diameter at high speed - the torque is very small and will not tighten the chuck sufficiently to resist the kinetic energy stored when you stop the spindle.
I have been using machines both hobby and early industrial with screw on chucks for over 60 years and believe me it gets quite exciting [and expensive] when one come loose - never happened to me my early mentors made sure of that.
Modern industrial and indeed many hobby machines now use better mounting methods
John
 

markba633csi

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John: I stand corrected, but I would be interested to know how many others follow that practice; I haven't run a lot of lathes but never used a wrench to mount the chucks on any of them, and they were all 9" swing (4.5" across the pond) or smaller with threaded spindles. I believe the South Bend book recommends hands only, but I need to check that- It's been a while since I read it
Mark
ps I twirl the chuck when mounting so that it "thunks" against the spindle shoulder- when done that way it requires a substantial tug with wrench to loosen
 
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redgrouse

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Mark, what you are doing is not a bad way and for some machines will be sufficient, however I was taught to add additional security but some of the machines were considerably larger than the 3.5 & 4.5 hobby lathes even so I still tighten the chuck on my Myford with a lever, the super 7 has a spindle lock which does make it easier.
My main concern was that someone may take the "hand tightening" too lightly and as I say it gets very exciting if a chuck come loose -- better safe than sorry
Cheers John
 

JWW

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... someone solved my problem. I had the spring loaded metal lever that's just below the QC box in the top hole which is neutral. Position one has a double detent, one hole above the other. The top hole is neutral, bottom is gear. :rolleyes:

295705
 
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