Emco v13 carriage lock?

Remove the compound and cross slide first, then remove the bolts holding the saddle together. The top and bottom of the saddle will separate so support the bottom half.
 
mikey said:
Remove the compound and cross slide first, then remove the bolts holding the saddle together. The top and bottom of the saddle will separate so support the bottom half.
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Got the compound, cross slides, and saddle removed and cleaned. Much better condition than I expected. With the saddle on the ways and the bolts hand tight it slides very easily. When I snug the saddle bolts and the rear slide bolts tight it becomes much more difficult to move. I have used way oil liberally and have the oilers freed up.

is it ok to leave the bolts a little looser? Or is there a spec for tightness?

thanks!
 
All the saddle bolts should be firmly snugged. You don't need to gronk down on anything. Make sure the hex head bolt on the right side of the saddle is loose; it sits between two socket head cap screws and is the saddle lock bolt that fits into a plate that goes under the ways and locks the saddle. The rear keeper plate at the rear of the saddle has screws that should all be snugged. Try leaving it loose and tighten all the saddle bolts, leaving the saddle lock loose. See if the saddle moves easily; it should. Now tighten the rear keeper plate and see if that is what is causing the binding; if so, then we need to fix that.

Most Emco lathes have a nylon/plastic keeper plate. Its function is to keep the saddle from lifting under load. The top part of the keeper plate should extend under the ways and be at the exact same elevation as the bottom of the ways. Make sure this is so. If it is not then you need to address that.

Try making sure the saddle lock is loose and see if the rear keeper is binding and get back to us.
 
Will do. I will loosen the hex bolt up front....I snugged it. I have the nylon plate in the back as well and it is only hand tight currently.
 
Yeah, that hex bolt is your saddle lock. It is normally left loose unless you want to lock the saddle in place.
 
Loosening the saddle lock helped. The rest of the saddle bolts are snugged. The back nylon keeper plate seems to have a very slight groove (really just a few scratches that you can see if you catch it in the light) where it mates to the ways, but seems to be very close to 'even' with the bottom of the ways where it seats.

The carriage moves much much better than it did when I got the machine, as i have made a lot of improvement on the rust on the ways. I will continue to work this down with fine steel wool and the scotchbrite. I would say it is very usable but maybe not quite as free as it sounds like it should be from the comments here. It helped alot when I got the oilers free'd up was able to get some way oil in there.

Tried to power the machine yesterday with a Phase A Matic 8-12 HP 600 HD. It would power the lathe but we could not get the red light to go out on the Phase A Matic, which is only supposed to light when the motor is getting up to speed. The electric motor also sounded pretty loud when it ran. I am hopeful the proper sized Phase A Matic will remedy all of this. The instructions specifically said to not oversize the Phase A Matic. We are regrouping and going to get a smaller Phase A Matic - hopefully soon!
 
I would flip the keeper plate over; there should be no groove in it.

Also be sure the way wipers are in good condition. They should be free of chips and debris and saturated with way oil. All wipers should contact the ways; I would check to make sure this is so.
 
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