Found a Monarch 10EE

[akjeff]

While really cool to find a 10EE in Alaska, I'd definitely view this one with a bit of a suspicious eye. If it was truly rebuilt by the folks at DIPEC as recently as 1992, then where is the correct tailstock, and why isn't it on the lathe? It must have also had a paint job at some time as well, as I doubt the depot guys would have sent out a machine with the sloppy paint on the placards. Exciting find, but proceed with caution.

 

[Ultradog MN]

The tach isn't a big deal, easy enough to replace with something digital. Fixing the tailstock is more of a challenge The electronics are not really a VFD as it appears to have the original DC motor, so it is some type of DC converter. Since it isn't original, if it isn't working diagnosing and repairing it could be more challenging depending on the make/model and what information can be found on that converter/controller. It does appear to be a single phase power input based on two fuses (not three) but that is not certain.

All-in-all, looks to be a project machine more than a take it home and use it tool. Projects can be fun, and rewarding in their own way, but if that isn't what you want to get into then you might want to take a pass on this one. I've had a 10EE sitting for a couple years now that I need to finish. Got side tracked building a new shop and a few other things.

Rabler,
If you could only have one, which one would you keep? Assuming they were in equal condition of course.
The 10EE or the 12CK?
I suspect I know your answer.

 

[rabler]

Rabler,
If you could only have one, which one would you keep? Assuming they were in equal condition of course.
The 10EE or the 12CK?
I suspect I know your answer.

Well I haven't actually used a 10EE , so I don't think I can give a good answer. The 12CK works, and I really like using it. Many people seem to think the 10EE is among the top few lathes, so eventually I'll put the hype to the test.

The 10EE is smaller, 12x20 work envelope vs 14x30 for the 12CK. Weight is fairly similar. The 10EE fits in a smaller area too, the 12CK takes up a fair amount of shop space for 14x30. Hands down the 12CK is easier to use/maintain, the 10EE is fairly complex electrically (coming from an electrical engineer). I've torn both down and rebuilt the basic mechanicals.

For me the big shortcoming of the 12CK is the limited higher RPM. I have mine modified for 1100 RPM maximum which is close enough to a factory option on the same mechanical parts that I'm comfortable with that, but there are times I do miss having the 1500+ RPM that the little G0752 allowed. My 612 solves that, big envelope (25x50) and 1500 RPM max, the swing over cross-slide (16") outclasses either other lathes total work envelope. I look forward to having 3500-4000 RPM available on the 10EE.

My plans are to eventually turcite the carriage on the 12CK and scrape in the carriage, cross slide, and compound. Right now the carriage racks (shifts angularly) enough that moving one direction (L-R) vs the other (R-L) makes about .003" difference in depth of cut, which is annoying. And the tailstock quill is a mess. The 10EE needs the motor rewired, and possibly the bed ground. The 612 needs a carriage lube system. So I have plenty of work to do.

 

[rabler]

Also to Rabler : I do see where the coolant pump is 3 phase and the Dc motor drive is coming off 1L1 and 1L2. The control transformer is off of 1L1 and 1L3. I guess the xfmr could also feed off 1 and 2 instead because there shouldn’t be any significant load there right?
Then should lift wire 7 off the M1 coil in case the pump switch gets inadvertently turned on and single phases that motor. Am I making any sense there? Edit : I may have mis-spoke there. I see I need to look at other drawings

Yes, the control transformer and motor would need to be set up to be on the same two legs, and disconnect the coolant pump.
The fact that you have drawings/schematics for the as-built mods makes it a lot more attractive. By sharing those schematics and pictures of the machine you should be able to get some pointers from online folks.

Any chance the existing location will let you power it up? If it runs that would make a big difference in my mind on whether or not to pursue it. My understanding is that Alaska isn't the best location for finding machines. $2k would be a pretty good price for a 10EE in the lower 48 if it'll run. If it was me I'd take $2k in my pocket, a truck/trailer to move it, and head over to see if it runs. If so, away you go with a new to you lathe. But I'm not afraid of machine rebuild projects, and any machine of this age is likely to need some occasional TLC. The tailstock needs to be replaced, and the carriage wheel is broken, but on the plus side it has the steady rest.

 

[rwdenney]

Dig up “Steve Watkins” on YouTube. He has a series, still in progress, on repairing and rebuilding a damaged 10EE. He calls the series “The $7000 Mistake”.

That lathe was severely crashed and damaged, and the one you are looking at may not be. But I learned a lot about these from those videos.

Monarch still exists and still sells the 10EE. New parts are breathtakingly expensive but at least they are available.

Rick “happy with his lowly South Bend for now” Denney

 

[pontiac428]

A 1992 rebuild on a 1952 machine sounds like a 1992 machine to me, not bad! I have seen many 10EE lathes on Navy ships and in the shipyards in similar condition, still favorited by the men who run them. So you're asking if it's a good idea to buy the only $2000 Monarch lathe in Alaska, and that's how it looks? If I start heading north from Seattle today, will it still be there when I arrive with the drop trailer?!