Franko's Welding Table

[Franko]

This should be an on-going project for the next couple weeks.

I kinda blew my budget building the lathe stand this year, so I'm trying to mostly use materials I have at hand.
About a decade ago I picked up some 1.5" and 1.25 1/8" square steel tube I planed to make a weight lifting table with. I got un-inspired about that project so it has been sitting around rusting for a decade or so.

For a project a couple years ago, I ended up with a 2' x 3' plate of 1/4" steel plate. About the right size for a table I'll have room for. One end was about an eighth out of square, so I trimmed off about a quarter inch with my plasma cutter and a straight edge.

I purchased a couple sticks of 2" x 2" x 3/16" angle for the project at my local Metal Supermarket. The steel plate is not exactly flat so I'll use the angel flatten it some. The angle is turned with the flange out to provide clamping surface around the edge of the table top. I drilled some 7/16" holes every 4" in the angle to attach it to the plate with plug welds.



The ends of the long angles are rounded minimize injuries and drilled with a 1/2" lifting hole at each corner.
Once the top is welded up, it will just sit on the square tube frame.



Like every steel project I've taken on, rust has to be removed. The angle had some rust, so I go my trusty angle grinder and wire brush and cleaned up as much as I could.

The tubing was pretty funky from sitting around for a decade so I had to clean it.



These are the legs of the stand. The 1.25 tube will slip in the 1.5" tube to make the stand height adjustable from 30" to 36" high, drilled and held with d-lock pins. They are cleaning up pretty nice. I've ordered a 2" steel boiler brush to clean the insides of the tubes.



The legs will have a couple 6" wheels on one end and adjustable feet on the other so I can move it around.
The plan is to make an extendable handle on the opposite end of the wheels that can be extended to serve as a handle to move the cart (like a wheelbarrow) and double as an extension support arm.

I figure it is going to be pretty heavy, so the bracing for the legs will have points to allow me to use a floor jack to raise and lower it to change the height. I have no plans to drill holes in it for clamps. The table will double as an assembly table and I don't want screws and parts falling through the holes. I figure if I need to clamp some guides, I can use high powered indicator magnet bases. The table will never be perfectly flat, so critical work will have to shimmed and squared with a level.

I have some preliminary plans but nothing finished enough to post. Details are still in the mulling stage.

More to come.

 

[Franko]

Here is an isometric drawing of the stand. The top will overhang this by 2" on three sides. The back and sides sides of the angle stiffeners and top supports will just slide over the outside edges of the top tubes, like a shoebox lid. It will be pretty heavy. I don't think I'll have to bolt it down. I may make a butcher block top to fit the cart that can exchange with the steel top.

The handle will tuck under the front edge of the top and be flush with the edge when fully retracted. If needed, it can extend a couple of feet to provide longer support for longer welding or assembly projects.

This drawing isn't set in stone. Adjustments will probably be made. If it isn't rigid enough, I may additional stringers near the top tubes. The bottom stringers will probably support a lower shelf.

 

[brino]

Hi Franko,

You have already provided a few great ideas. I like the extensions and the idea of the auxiliary top of wood. That could allow you to have clamp-down holes in the steel top and still use it for small part assembly without losing parts. I'm already "watching" the thread.

Thanks for sharing!
-brino

 

[Mark_f]

This is looking really nice.... I'm watching closely.

 

[tertiaryjim]

Looking good and a very well done drawing.
Last table I built, for my employer, I set the frame about 4 1/2 inches in so clamps could be used all around the table.
It was 1/2" plate and worked very well.
The top was just stiched welded to the frame,on the inside ,just strong enough to keep it in place, to avoid warping it.
Nothing like a flat table with good area to clamp on for many projects.

 

[Firestopper]

Franko,
I would not plug weld (rosette) all those holes. You'll end up crowning the hell out of the table, trust me. tertayjim touches on this, but I would like to EMPHASIZE!!!! He also brings up a great point about perimeter clamping. Hope its not too late.

If I seem direct, its because I know what time and material cost. I hope I did not offend,just trying to help.
Paco

 

[Franko]

No offense taken, Paco. I'm totally open to suggestions and advise.

I am aware of the possibility of warping the top. I had hoped to mitigate that by doing the plug welds gradually in pairs on opposite sides (like tightening lug bolts), giving each one time to cool, keeping an eye out for warping. I've also considered the possibility that I might need to make two or three similar supporting ribs to span the center of the plate.

To keep the heat as local as possible, I also considered clamping an aluminum or copper heat sink on the back of each plug weld.

I'd like to hear from anyone who thinks this won't work. There is plenty of time for plan-b, although I really don't want to have screw the top to the braces.

It would take me half a day to rig up a support to hold it flat on my drill press and drilling and countersinking that many holes seems like no fun at all. Plus, I don't want bumps from nuts on the bottom clamping surface of the flanges. I suppose the angles could be tapped, but I'm not sure 3/16" is thick enough for sufficient purchase for the threads.

 

[f350ca]

I have to second Paco's concerns. The leg of the angle and the top side of the plate MIGHT contract the weld shrinkage but it would be a long shot. Don't think a heat sink would help, its generally not the effect of the heat that causes things to warp but the shrinkage of the weld material as it cools. Smaller plug welds might help, 7/16 is a fairly large area to shrink. Sorry I don't have any solutions, hate giving just negative thoughts.

Greg

 

[Franko]

I plug welded 3/16" angle iron on the 1/4 x 3" sides of my lathe stand using 7/16" holes. I don't think I'd want to go much smaller than 3/8' because I want to be sure to get a good root started. Each plug took about 3 seconds filling them up flush. I don't have to fill these up flush, so the weld time could be even shorter.

Things are welded using 1/4" plate all time. There must be a way of doing it without causing warping.

 

[Firestopper]

Franko,

In order to really fuse a plug weld requires a good hot puddle which puts a lot of heat in a concentrated area. Its not impossible to accomplish so long as you clamp down the entire table to a larger thicker table and skip around. The last thing you want is to resort to flame straightening on a welding/layout table. You could simply weld small 1/2" beads to the edge of the angle (only a few to secure the table). Or only plug weld the center and the corners. I think every 4" will cause you heart burn.

Thanks for your patience.

Paco