Franko's Welding Table

Those tubes cleaned up really nice and the top looks great.
I only dabble in welding, so no expert here. Have you considered trimming your table top stiffeners a little to shorten the frame to make space for stitching the angle to the plate? You could get at both edges along the length of the angle, and keep each stitch short to control heat.
Good luck.
TomKro
 
Just a thought, but you could drill and countersink holes on the top and weld nuts to the bottom of your frame work. That way you would have a means to attach without the distortion concern, and also have a means to level the table top. The same approach could be used with a support or two in the center area. The overhang on the edges will be very useful. Mike
 
Fomogo, I really don't want to bolt it. It is going to take a lot of attachment points to straighten my piece of 1/4 steel. It already has some waves in it. Counter sinking that many holes with a hand drill doesn't sound like something I want to do. Supporting it to do it on the drill press would be a major undertaking. That thing is heavy.

I'm getting conflicting info on heat warping. My local welder says it won't be a problem. If it does crown it can be fixed by heating it and spritzing some water on it. As far as stitching the edge to the angle, I don't see the difference, heat wise, to using plug welds. My local welder thinks I should stick weld the plugs, and has offered to do it for me. He also said to weld them all at once and don't let it cool between welds.

Curious about whether MIG welding would stick, I did a test weld last night. It was too late to bang on it to try to break it, but I got out early this morning and tried to break it. I couldn't. I bent the 3/16 drilled part to about 45º with my shop press. The weld tore a little bit but held. To my surprise, the worst fusion was on the edges of the hole. Not what I expected. Even so, I think the MIG will be sufficient. The welds are never going to have the kind of stress I had to put on them to break.

I did a bunch of searching on the web for heat warping on my particular application, but saw very little mention of it. The main solutions to warping seemed to be clamping the piece up solidly while welding.

More later, I have to make a run.
 
Ok, I'm back. I picked up a couple sticks of steel for some center stiffeners. They will just clear inside the stand frame and can't attach to the edge angles. The tubes for the top of the stand are in place for layout and clearance purposes.

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The top is getting pretty heavy.

I put the big vise back on the mill. I hate squaring the vise. I noticed that I have about a thousandth of play in my ways on the table while tightening the vise bolts.

I'm ready to start drilling the adjusting and axle holes in my legs.
 
Chuck (the welder) lives about 8 blocks from me. He came over this morning and helped my weld up my top. He brought over a box of E7011 rod and gave me a lesson how to do it. I stick welded all but a couple of the plug welds. It is the first time I've ever stick welded anything. Chuck is a good teacher.

We did get a little twist in the top, but I think it was there before it was welded. Chuck set it on the ground and put a couple 2x4 under a couple corners and gave it a whack with my biggest sledge hammer. That took the twist out of it. A few more tune-up whacks and we got it level to about .05". That's better than I expected, considering my piece of plate steel wasn't ever completely flat.

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looks Great Franko. I know absolutely nothing about welding, but wish I did as it is a great skill to have.
 
Excellent!

Does Chuck make house calls this far North?

-brino
 
Turned out great Franko, glad it worked out.

Greg
 
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