Future Project

I've been tinkering with the Model A some lately... mostly going through it, doing 'exploratory surgery' trying to determine what is good, what is bad, what is worse than bad, etc.

I haven't done anything with the powertrain, brakes, or steering yet. I'm looking mainly at the body and interior, trying to determine what will need to be done.

The body is a four door sedan, and was built by Briggs under contract for Ford. It is basically a steel shell mounted over a wood framing system... the wood is what gives it structural stability. Briggs didn't have the ability to make large stampings, so the roof is open in the middle, and had six wood bows supporting a vinyl top that covered the opening. There was a full headliner inside, supported by the same bows.

When I bought the car, there was one bow missing, and two more were broken. I had planned to epoxy the broken ones back together and reinforce the breaks, but discovered that the broken halves had hung from the ends long enough to become distorted... I can't repair that.

There are a few companies that reproduce the wood for these cars... it is made to order so there is a two to three month lead time to get it... and it is not cheap.

I decided to remove most of the interior and inspect all of the body and roof wood and go ahead and order everything that I'll need at one time... this decision led to the proverbial 'can of worms'...

The body wood is pretty much all solid and useable with the exception of one piece that goes across the back just under the rear window... it is badly rotted, the rear window must have been leaking for years. You can see it in these pictures...

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The rest of the body wood is good. The floor pans are steel and are covered with surface rust, but are very solid...

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However... it didn't take long to discover that ALL of the roof wood is in very bad condition. I will have to replace all of it. The header panel over the windshield and both of the side rails that run front to back over the doors crumble when touched.

I've pretty thoroughly inspected the entire body and have not found a single hole rusted through anywhere... not even a pinhole. There are two areas where I expect to find pinholes when I start de-rusting... one is in the upper cowl where the windsheild seal seats, the other is at the very bottom of the cowl on the drivers side.

I have removed the windshield... it mounts on a hinge at the top and swings open at the bottom for ventilation. There are 10 1/4" screws that hold the windshield hinge to the roof, one was missing, I managed to remove two more... the other seven I had to cut the bolt heads off... they wouldn't budge.

I've also removed the front of the roof and most of the rotted header, in preparation for replacing the wood framework.

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Yes, the chicken wire is original to the car... it was originally stretched tight across the bows to support the vinyl top.

Replacing the top wood is going to be a big, tedious, time consuming job... but it will be worth it.

Stay tuned... there's more to come.

-Bear
 
Just seen your post today. Nice project; just needs some love. You sound like you're up for it.
Are you going to try and fashion your own wood pieces?
You may have found this site:
Model A Ford Club of America
They have technical sections, and may have information as to what species of wood was original, dimensions, any treatment of the wood (doubtful about that).
I'll be watching this thread, good luck!
 
Just seen your post today. Nice project; just needs some love. You sound like you're up for it.
Are you going to try and fashion your own wood pieces?
You may have found this site:
Model A Ford Club of America
They have technical sections, and may have information as to what species of wood was original, dimensions, any treatment of the wood (doubtful about that).
I'll be watching this thread, good luck!

No, I am going to buy the replacement wood... I'm not much of a woodworker, and every piece has compound radii, compound angles, etc. It would take me months to try and carve these pieces.

I had not seen that site... there is a LOT of good information there... I'll spend some time looking at it. Thanks for the link!

-Bear
 
The roof wood kit arrived... I unboxed it today...

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That is $1700 worth of wood... but it is very nicely done.

I've been studying on how to replace it in the car... I don't think it can be done without removing the body shell from the chassis... I hadn't planned to do that, but..

This project is 'ballooning'...

I guess I'm this deep in it, I might as well dig this hole a little deeper. At least I'll be able to do more rust removal and repair with the body off.

More to come...

-Bear
 
I'm not a woodworker... I've never claimed to be a woodworker. I have very few woodworking tools. So if anybody is a woodworker... be gentle...

I started trying to whittle out the piece of wood that goes across the back of the car under the rear window. I had the ends of the original piece to use as a pattern... but a large part was rotted away...

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Home Depot didn't have a good selection of hardwood to work with, I didn't want to use pine... so I picked up a few pieces of 3/4 x 2-1/2 poplar.

I cut one to fit between the corner pieces in the car, then cut another to overlap the corner pieces 3" on each side. I epoxied those two together, cut a center notch for the steel brace in the center of the car, then cut a 3rd piece the same length as the second and epoxied it to the top of the first two.

Using my rotten patterns, I drew the rear radius on top, cut it on the bandsaw, and then sanded it to shape on my 12" disk sander. I then used the patterns again to lay out the curve on the front side of the piece... I had to set the table on the bandsaw on an 8 degree angle to cut it, then used the curve on the top of my belt sander to finish the curve...

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Test fit in the car...

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It fit ok, but the center brace was under a lot of pressure... the center was too thick.

While it was in the car, I marked the locations for the seat back support braces. Back inside, I set up my sine vise on the mill and milled the two slots for the braces.

I don't like milling wood on my mill... but with my lack of proper equipment, I do what I can with what I have.

Next, I set up my Kurt vise and milled a pocket to thin the wood where the center brace seats, and drilled the holes to bolt the center brace to the wood. Then I ran into a problem...

The original piece had two carriage bolts that went in from the back side through the center brace... but I can't get to the back to install bolts... so this is how I fixed it...

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I machined a .400" thick steel plate with two holes tapped for the bolts, then milled a pocket in the wood to hold the plate flush. The plate is fixed to the wood with a wood screw.

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It fits much better now...

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I still need to drill two holes on each end to bolt it to the corner pieces, and mill two slots in the top for the rear window framing to seat in.

-Bear
 
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