Garage door insulation install

8ntsane

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Hello Guys
I posted a few months back about styrofoam isulation on my wooden garage door.Well guess what? I did all the seals, and just never got back around to it.
I did have another project in the house to do, and need to rent a van to haul some drywall and wood home. So I picked up a couple of sheets of 1 inch styrofoam while I was there.I have a few questions for those that have done this before.

The styrofoam is that blue coloured stuff with a foil cover on one side. Im not certain if the foil goes against the garage door, or faces inside the garage? The nex question is about cutting this stuff. Ive never worked with it before, so have no clue. I figured on cutting it with a exacto knife, but not sure if there are better ways to go about it? Being the door is wood, Im going to need to cut around all those hinges.

I also have seen another product over at home depot. It comes in several different size rolls, and is supposed to be a insulation / heat barrier of sorts. It is available in rolls as mentioned. It appears to be about 1/8 inch thick shinney foil type stuff.
I was thinking of putting this over top of the styrofoam, facing inside the garage, what do you guys think?
I was thinking of glueing it on to the styrofoam panels before installing them, hoping it would help keeping the heat in the shop in winter, and help control heat coming in the shop in summer.

Any Home improvment guys around here?

Thanks
Paul
 
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Here in Canada I would place the foil side to the interior. It will keep the heat in as the alum is reflective to IR.

It cuts easy with a sharp knife, but do not rush it, you can tear it. There is a definite grain structure. It cuts better in one direction vs 90 degree in the other direction.

Remember that the doors bends in at the hinges, so you have to taper the edges between any 2 panels for allow bending at the hinge points.

I would not expect much value on the thin stuff. Closed cell foam has the best R-value and the smaller the cells the better.
 
Since heat rises I would do the ceiling first. The foil is a vapor barrier and goes to the inside. Use a sharp knife with a straight edge with something under the foam so the knife won't dull. As said above, taper the cut to allow for the joint bend.
Paul
 
Since heat rises I would do the ceiling first. The foil is a vapor barrier and goes to the inside. Use a sharp knife with a straight edge with something under the foam so the knife won't dull. As said above, taper the cut to allow for the joint bend.
Paul


I have a faily low ceiling in my garage now. Its all drywalled now, though Im not sure if any insulation is behind that. The bedroom is above the garage, and its pretty chilly in the winter. Come to think of it, when it turns into a oven in the summer months, he AC doesnt keep the bedroom that cool either.

Ill be going out to see how this stuff cuts this afternoon. Still no comments in the rolls of that heat barrier stuff,,I guess not commonly used.

Paul
 
Cut an exploratory hole in the ceiling and check if it is insulated and how much. Likely minimum and badly installed. Might be worth it to insulate that space since you do have an issue already upstairs.
 
The vapor barrier should always go toward the warm side.Otherwise moisture can go through the insulation and condense when it comes in contact with the cold outer wall etc. Joints should sealed(taped) if possible.They make a foil tape for that.
 
Thanks for the replys Guys

It managed to get this stuff cut, and installed but the temps are up the last few days, so cant tell. Ill know when it get really cold again. I did check for insulation in the ceiling, and the wall thats against the house, nothing in there, so Ill have to wait till spring and have that blow in stuff done.

Thanks for the input

Paul
 
I am in the process of doing the exact thing to my single basement garage door. Mine is metal and lucky for me, the PO left some scrap polyisocyanurate foam. My door has eight panels and Due to the construction of my door, It is necessary for me to cut each section in four pieces.
This foam will not bend and I am presently researching what adhesive to use with this type foam. My foam is 3/4" with foil on both sides and it cuts pretty well with a razor knife.
 
With foil on both sides you have the best of both worlds. Vapor barrier on the inside and a good glue surface on the outside surface. I would use construction adhesive like PL400 to stick it to the door panels. Dust off the 2 surfaces and run a bead that matches the outline of your panel, that way the humidity will not behind and rot the door.
 
I did my whole shop with that only one inch thick 4x8 sheets shop is 40x50 16ft ceiling. so thats a lot of sheets. I learned
quick- table saw works well but what a mess. What does work well is one of those long serrated steak knifes. It all got
fastened with alum. nails and 2" alum. disks. Now to fasten to a door or something I found liquid nail works perfectly. Also
you must use latex paint any mineral base paint will melt the stuff. For touch ups I use sheet rock mud and trowel it on.
 
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