gear grease

Flyrod said:
rustrp...thank you

i am right there with you

in fact, i point out the ravenol b/c it is $4.85 for a cartridge (http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAVENOL-Mul...511408?hash=item3abf7975b0:g:a-8AAOSwP~tW5yCD) v. the $18.50 for the HyHeet (https://www.amazon.com/HyHeet-Graphite-Grease-14-5oz-cartridge/dp/B004DPD622)

being too good is perfect if it costs a third!
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Pricing on Ebay or Amazon, along with claims of the usefulness wasn't my primary focus. I didn't look to see where the product was sold.
 
my bad - i thought when you wrote "There are many types of grease with graphite additives that work well and are less expensive for your purpose." you meant that it was a good product but too expensive

I think i now understand you are saying it is not good for my application (even if it is cheap)

got it and thanks for the clarification!
 
Flyrod said:
my bad - i thought when you wrote "There are many types of grease with graphite additives that work well and are less expensive for your purpose." you meant that it was a good product but too expensive

I think i now understand you are saying it is not good for my application (even if it is cheap)

got it and thanks for the clarification!
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Both of the two you mentioned are high heat, so the question is do you need or want high heat grease. Some of the high temp, high load grease is also very tacky which means things stick to it (swarf) because it's designed to stick to the gears and when the gears are in motion it sounds like a horse pulling it's foot out of the mud. I would think somewhere in the lubrication instructions specs and types are defined.
 
ah ... i'm with you now

the manual only says:

"a small amount of graphite grease should be kept on the teeth of all gears in the headstock, the apron, and on the teeth of the rack on the underside of the front way"

it makes no mention of any spec of grease

as to high temp, i was following Robert's suggestion on post #2 above

thanks

EDIT: a copy of the manual page is attached
 

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Fly, I would skip the German grease. Their web page just didn't give me a warm fuzzy. It is poorly translated. When you read it, it feels like Chinglish. They didn't bother to translate part of it (bei instead of at, and Graphit instead of Graphite). The units are Metric. They say in writing that the grease parameters vary from batch to batch. etc. And as a high temperature grease, it really isn't. Only good up to 266 F. Etc.

Rust, the reason that I suggested a high temperature rated grease is that when the carrier in the grease melts, the grease starts to sling off. That is both messy and expensive. Open gear grease needs to be tacky, else it immediately slings off leaving you with both the mess and no lubrication. As far as the old canard about grease attracting swarf, it doesn't. "Attracting" implies a force similar to magnetism. If any happens to hit the grease, it will probably be captured. But, as I said before, you are not supposed to operate the machine with covers open or removed. As far as compatibility is concerned, the Heet usage instructions flatly state that it isn't compatible with any other grease. And caution the user to completely remove the old grease before the first application.

Fly, it probably wouldn't help if the lube instructions specified a grease, because whatever they recommended probably wouldn't be made any more. Like the gear grease that Atlas specified. The company that made it was bought out by a French outfit. Shortly afterwards the Atlas recommended grease was discontinued. I was a little surprised, however, that Logan did not specify a viscosity for the oil to use in the more than a dozen places that it says to use it. I would guess that SAE 20 ND (ISO 68) would be appropriate.
 
Robert - thank you very much

I didn't extract the whole lubrication section...here it is

for all other places they recommend "no more than" a 10wt (which surprises me b/c 10wt is really thin)
 

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Flyrod said:
Robert - thank you very much

I didn't extract the whole lubrication section...here it is

for all other places they recommend "no more than" a 10wt (which surprises me b/c 10wt is really thin)
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The weight of the oil is important but equally important, probably moreso is the frequency the lathe is oiled. To clarify my comments regarding the grease; grease with a graphite additive comes in a wide range with many different characteristics. Rather than become entangled in semantics, here's a link with some good information. I think Bob commented on the amount to apply and how, which would limit grease being slung from the gear cluster.

http://www.skf.com/group/products/l...nderstanding-grease-technical-data/index.html
 
thanks Rustrp

What graphite grease (mfg/part number) would use in a logan 11" lathe that said:

"a small amount of graphite grease should be kept on the teeth of all gears in the headstock, the apron, and on the teeth of the rack on the underside of the front way"

thanks in advance
 
Flyrod said:
thanks Rustrp

What graphite grease (mfg/part number) would use in a logan 11" lathe that said:

"a small amount of graphite grease should be kept on the teeth of all gears in the headstock, the apron, and on the teeth of the rack on the underside of the front way"

thanks in advance
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As I stated, I'm not inclined to get into semantics on which specific grease, especially when referring to high heat or load. As the instruction manual states, "small amount" and then consider what lubricant technology was at the time the instructions were printed. This was the reason I posted the link, and all you need is there to read. Applying the grease with a toothbrush and leaving only a small amount (thin film) prevents almost any graphite based grease from leaving the place intended. If you have enough heat build up to cause the grease to drip, you have problems other than lubrication. Make a choice based on a producer with a known reputation. Walk into any automotive parts store and pick up a container of grease with a graphite additive, easy to apply and use it. I wouldn't base the choice on price alone unless you are choosing between Chevron or Mobil etc. You will be checking lubrication points on a regular basis so if you see a problem address it. -Russ

"There's enough mystery in the world without creating more." -Someone said.
 
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