Goce's 06 twin turbo diesel peugeot

tq60

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Test pressure too low.

Oil pressure is very high and seal may only fail under operating pressure maybe?

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Lo-Fi

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Does sound like oil is pushing its way into the coolant via the oil cooler. Its not unheard of for oil>water coolers to fail that way.
 

GoceKU

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It has that issue, that oil has pushed its way in the coolant system but is very little quantity because it isn't missing any oil in the engine, the pressure is coming from combustion chambers or the exhaust gases because is pushing the coolant at a fast rate when the engine is started.
 

GoceKU

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After couple more hours of searching on the internet and diagnosing i found that i have a faint noise in cylinder 4 and 6 so this means the heads need to come off. Started with the high pressure pump, cam covers and intakes they all come off, then i had to remove the front and rear timing belt and then started with unbolting the cams and head bolts they are tight very tight one head come off no visible leaks i broke two sockets and one ratchet, than the other side i couldn't unbolt it, so i used the huge electric impact and with 3 bolt left i broke my last 18mm socket i had to stop, tomorrow i'll buy couple more 18mm sockets it's going to be fun cleaning and reassembling it has 24 valves, hydrolic lifters rollers and 4 camshafts.
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Lo-Fi

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May the gods stand between you and harm, in all the empty places you must walk... Lol

That's a bonkers amount of torque on those head bolts. Assume they're angle tightened stretch bolts? Always scares the **** out of me that the threads are going to strip when doing them up.
 

turnitupper

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oday i spent half a day fighting with the fuel injectors i used up an entire can of penetrating oil and lots of bruised ankles
Been really impressed with your work ever since your work on the Little Niva, but finding that you work with your FEET is astounding.:applause:
Puts you in a class above that other Great Macedonian, Alexander.
John.
 

GoceKU

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Been really impressed with your work ever since your work on the Little Niva, but finding that you work with your FEET is astounding.:applause:
Puts you in a class above that other Great Macedonian, Alexander.
John.
i'm having to hold the engine with my feet and applying as much force as i can to a 1 metre cheater bar to break the bolts free. That's not fun.
 

GoceKU

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Today after work i bought me a new 18mm socket and continued removing the front head. And its good news and bad new, the head gasket is showing signs that it has been over torque on one corner right between cylinder 4 and 6 and one coolant passage. i'll need to do some more cleaning and measuring for straightness.
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Lo-Fi

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That's been blowing really badly! Bet you'll find some warpage; either the block or head. Are there signs of someone having been into it before?
 

GoceKU

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Yeah, the engine block is nearly new and the head gaskets have been recently been changed in the car.
 

Lo-Fi

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Some animal has torqued the hell out of it to try and stop it leaking...
 

GoceKU

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Some animal has torqued the hell out of it to try and stop it leaking...
My thought is who ever assembled it did the last step tightening it 180 degrees twice on that bolt.
 

FOMOGO

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At this point I would tear it all the way down take it to a good machine shop to true up the the block and heads. I suppose you could try the glass plate and sandpaper route, but on a boosted diesel I would feel a lot better with a properly machined surface, done to the proper RA, for a good seal. This is one of those jobs you wouldn't want to have to do over. Cheers, Mike
 

GoceKU

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Today i spent some considerable time cleaning both engine block head surfaces, started with a razer then moved to a soft brush used gasoline in a spray bottle and the top surface and tops of the pistons clean up very well inspected all the cylinder bores they all are perfect and looks to have low mileage the head gasket surface is not so nice, it has about 0,07 mm distortion and the previous head gasket has left marks around the cylinders deep enough to feel my finger. Now clean it can be seen where the head gasket was leaking is the dark spot. I still need to clean and check the heads, but is good news for now.
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GoceKU

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Well is hard when you are a person that sticks out, i've spent almost 3 hours phoning all the machine shops, resurfacing the cylinder heads, no problem. But the engine block anyone can get it resurfice they have no 30 degree paralers only one shop has a machine that can do V engines but needs to be fully disassembled because it mounts to the main bearings. And the block definitely needs to be resurfaced because it higher at the blown gasket place.
 

Lo-Fi

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Any decent shop will want it fully disassembled. Referencing off the crank journals is the proper way to do it.
Besides, getting it machined with the crank in is asking for all kinds of nasty in the bearings, bores and rings.
 

GoceKU

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If it was an old school engine i'll have no trouble disassembling it, but this engine has a one time use magnetic crankshaft trigger ring that needs a special tool to be installed that no one around here has. So taking it all apart is not an option i want to explore, i can buy a second hand long block for a grand but they have no guarantee, i can install a engine with worse problems than i'm removing. i'm talking to couple of people that have experience dealing with american cars but even they say is hard to find a good machinist to do the work right.
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Lo-Fi

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That's frustrating! Does it definitely need to be removed from the crankshaft to remove the crankshaft from the block?

One thing I've learned over the years is that pro engineers have often forgotten the art of creating oddball setups that hobby machinists would think nothing of. Can you do something crazy like support it on V blocks on exposed crank journals if you remove a couple of main bearing caps? Would be worth knocking up some brass or bronze blocks just for the job, I'd have thought. You'd need a big-ish mill, but nothing huge. Any members local to you might be up for a challenge? You're still into major grief getting it clean afterwards regardless, though. Or can you make an installation/removal tool for the ring?
 

GoceKU

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Today i did i bit more disassembly on the engine. Removed the flex plate, timing belt tensioners and couple more things and managed to flip the block upside down and lot more oil and water come out. and finally i can see the magnetic trigger wheel and is on top and very bad design.
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GoceKU

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Today i bought me a new set of impact sockets and put them to use right away. Started with removing the lower oil pan, 14 bolts and it come off, it uses a preform solid gasket. Then i started on the oil pickup, dipstick tube and upper oil pan. Then i bit decision time come, no machines wanted to resurface the desks with it assembled, so first thing i did is remove the back cover bolts and seen it doesn't have any thing holding it other then some silicone so i can remove it with the crank. So the oil pump come off then the pistons one by one. And in few hours the engine was apart, now i'm committed i'll be getting new seals and cleaning everything so i can repair it correctly.
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Tozguy

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WOW, YIKES, and more!
Good thing that you are taking lots of pictures for when all those parts have to go back together.
 

brino

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Goce,

That's a big job!

Do you have a solution for the crankshaft magnetic trigger ring that may need special tools?
Can you leave it in place and work around it?

-brino
 

GoceKU

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Yes Brino, that was the dicading task i've seen first that i can take it out intakt with the crank and because of that i decided to take it apart, you can see in the pictures i've taken together with the back seal and its cover otherwise i was looking at second hand engines which i found only 2 in my country they are about a grand just for the beair block with heads and i almost decided to cut my losses but the sellers wore very vague they did not know the mileage and would not guarantee them so i can be installing a worse engine then i already have.
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GoceKU

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Today i started on striping the cylinder heads, someone has installed land rover glow plugs in them, they have the same engine but the glow plugs are a bit fatter in fact they are press fit. i spent lots of time, heating them, using couple of types of penetrating oil they all started to turn but won't come out i managed to get out one in the middle and broke the heads of the other two. I also marked all the caps with letters and removed the caps, rollers and hydraulic lifters. Been frustrated with the stuck glow plugs i welded the broken heads to the glow plug and stopped for today to let them cool down and my nerves take a rest.
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mattthemuppet2

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wow! that beautiful exterior sure was hiding a lot of unpleasant surprises! Still, if there's anyone who can fix something like this in a challenging environment, I'd nominate you for sure :)
 

GoceKU

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Today i stopped by a hardware store, bought me couple of things for cleaning the parts once i get them machined also bought couple of sheets of plastic i may have to make a clean room for assembly.
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GoceKU

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Today i spent some considerable time fighting with the stuck glow plugs, both ones i welded on the right head broke and are not moving even with heat or a 3 Kg sliding hummer. So i started on the other head, the middle glow plug come out with some effort but the back one again in old fusion broke with no effort, so with that in mind i started to work on the first one and with a lot more effort it also come out, i also disassembled the entire left head cams lifters caps rollers everything marked and removed in order.
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GoceKU

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Today was one of those days one step forward three steps backwards, all started few days ago with 3 glow plugs snapping on me. First i thought someone had hummerd in the wrong plugs in because they are very tight fit to the point they make the cracking noise like when loosening a very tight bolt all the way to the end. But after a bit of cleaning on the holes that glow plugs come out they are full of carbon that is sto hard it needs a drill bit to clean out. I tried soaking the rest of the broken pics with couple of different solvents to dissolve the carbon but no luck i weld on nuts, it will move a little then break off i've done it so many times i lost count. At the end i got my cordless drill and drilled them out. Drilling them was a bit hard it is had metal, but after a few hours i finally managed to knock them out i took a picture of what was left after i removed them wat was left on the table and packed both heads in a big banana box to take them the the machine shop.
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GoceKU

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Well the Machine shop called, "your block is done" - What about the heads, -Oh forgot i'll put them on the machine right now you can start heading over. So i went there, i had a hell of a time to drive to the other side of skopje because of the coronavirus, because they are located near couple of the hospitals in the main city. I had to go thru couple of parking lots, jump couple of sidewalks and by passed the police blocks. When i got to the machine shop they were surprised how i've gotten a car pass the road blocks. The machine shop had done a good job resurfacing both engine blok and heads, they also checked the bores and main caps its all in specs i loaded them up also couple of the guys that worked there and headed back i dropped off the guys in the city centre. You can see one head has less material taking off because it was resurfaced once before and they made them even. The price for their work was 50$ which isn't too expensive but if it was a straight 4 or 6 it would been 15$.
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GoceKU

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Today i started with cleaning the engine block for this car. Started by making an adapter and mounting it on an engine stand that i recently made. Now i can see it at an eye level and turn it all around i can see some interesting design details, it has very thin main reebs with 6 bolts holding them, the caps are pretty biffy and the bottom is very open, it also has channels cast in the outside walls to the oil to drain from the heads, that you can see my finger in one of the turbo oil drain, this requires a special gasket that is more like a spacer than a classic gasket. After admiring the design i set up couple of tires pans to catch the diesel fuel i'll be using to clean this block. I used new razors blades brass brash stoft brash 3M abrasive pads to scrub every inch of the block inside and out, the engine was pretty clear to start with but as i clean it i started to see some familiar details it reminded me of the american 6.7 powerstroke. And now as i was going to write this thread i did a bit of looking and found out that in fact is an Ford engine, the same found in the new Ford F 150 3.0 powerstroke so be aware if you own one. Never the less as i was finishing with the cleaning i cut open 6 pepsi bottles and stacked all of my pistons in them and filled them with diesel fuel and will let them sit to break down the carbon on them as for cleaning the block i'll be back tomorrow to do one more phase of cleaning it with petrol.
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