Grizzly 4003g qctp nut

Driveslayer45 said:
Thanks Leeq, I hadn't until you mentioned it. I am considering making a small one for the carriage lock so I don't have to pull out an Allen wrench.

What is not shown is I also had to make a new t nut for the qctp as I didn't have a metric tap that size. Maybe I'll add a picture later.
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That would look really sharp with matching handles, nevermind being super handy.20200131_233107.jpgI know all about the turn a tnut thing. Here is the tnut I turned to all thread the toolpost down so I could turn the shoulder off of the tbolt so that I could mount my new toolpost to turn the tnut for my old axa post. Good thing this work makes me smile, because there seems to be no end to it.
 
Hmm I have the Bostar AXA. Now I'm curious what the top thread is...
 
Should
DavidR8 said:
Hmm I have the Bostar AXA. Now I'm curious what the top thread is...
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should be 14x1.5 unless they changed it up. I just checked mine out tonight. the original top threads are in tact.
 
Latinrascalrg1 said:
Dave I purchased a new bxa sized qctp kit off ebay the end of last year. Although im not sure of the thread pitch the kit did in fact come with a center mounting stud that was threaded on both ends however they had different threading pitches. Of all things I think 1 side is standard pitch while the other is metric although I have Absolutely no reason why they would choose to make them like that? For that matter why even have 2 different thread pitches in the first place?
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Just a wild guess but maybe the different threads at each end of the stud is a design feature. It might be intended to make the top thread more likely to unscrew than the bottom one. It irks me when the stud unscrews from the T nut when loosening the top nut. Nothing a bit of blue Loctite won't fix but still......
 
Tozguy said:
Just a wild guess but maybe the different threads at each end of the stud is a design feature. It might be intended to make the top thread more likely to unscrew than the bottom one. It irks me when the stud unscrews from the T nut when loosening the top nut. Nothing a bit of blue Loctite won't fix but still......
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I never really thought about it but I think you may be on to something. I think the stud for my Dorian also had a coarse thread on bottom & fine thread on top. I forget, I'm curious now & will have to check. I've never had mine come loose yet though.

IIRC a finer thread is less likely to vibrate loose. And a finer thread should provide more holding power than a coarse thread if both are torque to the same spec. Would make sense to use a finer thread for the top nut. But I'm just guessing too & have no idea, I'm no enginerd. :big grin:
 
Tozguy said:
Just a wild guess but maybe the different threads at each end of the stud is a design feature. It might be intended to make the top thread more likely to unscrew than the bottom one. It irks me when the stud unscrews from the T nut when loosening the top nut. Nothing a bit of blue Loctite won't fix but still......
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I never thought about that and Im sure your theory is why its done that way. Thanks for the reply.
 
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