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Grizzly G0602/G0752 Spindle replacement

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WarrenP

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#1
Hi Everyone, Im hoping someone can answer me on how to remove the spindle on my G0752 Lathe. I have removed the nuts, gears, etc on the left side of the lathe. It looks like the spindle should just push out the other side but it is pretty much stuck. I didn't want to force it without checking with someone who knows. Can I tap it out using a block of wood and a hammer or is there something I am missing? Also, when reinstalling is there a certain procedure on how tight I should tighten the nuts so there is the right amount of load on the bearings or is no play enough? Thank you very much for any answers I receive. Warren
 

fitterman1

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#2
Have your chuck off.
And locknuts and gear also.
Using a soft hammer tap the outboard end towards the tailstock.
There will be a large washer that will come off easily and then the tapered roller that should drop out first.
Bear in mind that the tapered roller brg may be difficult to move as the interference maybe excessive.
You may need to use a bit of force but dont go berserk.
You might consider using a wooden buffer between hammer and spindle to prevent damage.
Protect your ways so nothing can damage them.
The chuck end brg will need to be pressed off and on again (get the best you can afford).
The outboard brg should be a firm sliding fit upon reassembly as this one allows adjustments.
The inboard should have about 1 to 2 thou interference.
Use a quality brg grease and pack the tapers about 2/3rds full.
Adjustment should be so there's no measurable clearance and tending towards minimum preload.
Make sure there's no casting sand in your headstock too.
Cheers Alby
 

fitterman1

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#3
Getting the cones out is another matter.
You'll need a long pin punch and light hammer to tap them out.
Work the punch around so the cones come out square.
I filed two grooves opposite each other for each brg seat for future access as I found them difficult to remove initially.
Cheers Alby
 

markba633csi

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#4
I think Alby means "races"- Here in the states "cones" are what we call the part with the rollers. The ring part of the bearing they ride in are called "races"
Just so there's no confusion
Mark
 

WarrenP

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#5
Thank you for you reply, both of you. OK, sounds like I just need to tap out the spindle and then I might need to tap out the bearings also ( tapping them out straight). You say to use the best bearings I can afford, I was planning on getting the originals from Grizzly... do you have a better idea? Also, what type of grease do you recommend? I wasn't sure if I needed to pack them with grease or just let the oil lubricate them that I put in the oil ways. Warren
 

fitterman1

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#6
Hi Warren, sorry about any confusion.
I can't remember the brg numbers but I got FAG brgs online from Germany.
Maybe you can post inner race dia and outer race diameter and someone will be able to come up with some numbers. I'm on the farm atm and my brg books are at home 50km away. Any quality brg manufacturers like Timken,Skf,FAG etc would be fine. I reckon I paid about a AU$100 for mine.
I dont know what Grizzly stock so realistically can't comment.
I use a lg2 brg grease by skf.
I wouldn't use oil in the brgs as taper roller brgs act like a pump and push the oil out to the biggest diameter of their race. They do it with grease also but not so severely.
Use a way oil or hydraulic oil for your ways.
Cheers Alby
 

fitterman1

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#7
I started a thread on this site last year on the 602 that I haven't been able to get back to. It's called "my g0602 my way" see if you can locate it and have a read, it details most of the work I've done to make it better although its not finished. Hopefully you can use it to avoid the pitfalls I encountered.
Don't forget cleanliness is paramount when playing with brgs.
Cheers Alby
 

markba633csi

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#8
Hi Warren- most bearings have standard numbers, made by many manufacturers. Good bearings are worth the extra money, but they must be installed carefully; and in a clean environment.
Have you determined that you truly need new bearings? Are they showing excessive runout, noisy or rough?
Mark
 

WarrenP

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#9
Hi markba633csi... ( looks like your pretty close to me) Yes, the chuck side bearing is squeeking and it is running a little rough now.. my fault actually. I let the carriage get to close to the chuck and the chuck hit the carriage while running. afterwards it ran a little rough and within a day or two started squeeking. when I put more oil in the ball oiler the squeeking got a little better. I removed the spindle now , I just need to press off the one bearing and replace.. after I obtain the new ones. I figure I should just buy both and replace them both at the same time. I have replaced wheel bearings for cars in the past so I should know the basics, but then you just asked for the one for the car and they gave it to you. On the lathe im not sure of which one to get unless I just order from grizzly's part catalog for the G0752 lathe. Although if theirs are a rather cheaper one I would like to get a better set but not sure on how to find the correct one, etc.
 
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WarrenP

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#10
fittterman1, By the way, I tried to find your post "my g0602 my way"...but couldn't come up with it here. Will try some more. Correction, I just found it , its called "my workman (g0602) my way". Wow, your definitely finding a lot to do on your lathe. I need to find those bearings and your problem with the tailstock quill moving is something I need to look at too, it is annoying.
 
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WarrenP

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#11
I measured the inner and outer races. This is with the 2 pieces put together, so the smaller inner race is 1.870 inches which is equal to 47.498mm and the outside (largest diameter with the 2 pieces together) race is 2.953 inches, or 75.00 mm. Using my calipers, the best I can come up with its hopefully close enough to tell, if not let me know. I can check again. Seems the inner race measurement doesn't look right but that's what I get.
 
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fitterman1

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#12
fittterman1, By the way, I tried to find your post "my g0602 my way"...but couldn't come up with it here. Will try some more. Correction, I just found it , its called "my workman (g0602) my way". Wow, your definitely finding a lot to do on your lathe. I need to find those bearings and your problem with the tailstock quill moving is something I need to look at too, it is annoying.
Time spent on the lathe is roughly 2 yrs on and off, mostly off.
I'm in the process of shifting to a farm so lots of things are on hold atm, while we organise ourselves.

If you say you pranged the saddle into the chuck, I would consider an alignment check while you're at it.
Cheers Alby
 

WarrenP

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#13
Thanks fitterman1, good luck on your move... If anyone knows who has the bearings for the G0602/G0752 please let me know, otherwise I will have to get them from grizzly which although probably ok, if I can get some better ones it would be great while it is apart. After I get the spindle back in I will check on the head stock alignment. Does anyone know the best way to check headstock alignment? Thanks all for your time helping me on this. Warren
 

metalchiper

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#14
I believe you can take the gears to a supply house that sells bearings they can measure and make sure you get one the same size and of good quality. i haven't bought bearings in a long time but purchased them from a company called bearings inc. it was in Pasco Washington. there have to be other companies that specialize in bearings if you live anywhere near a large city. quality is cheap compared to the pain in a butt it is to change bearings once will be enough that you won't want to do it again.
 

FOMOGO

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#15
Make sure to check that your spindle is straight before installing your new bearings. Did you check the run out before taking it apart? Hope it all goes smoothly. Mike
 

WarrenP

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#16
No of course I didnt think to check the runout before taking it apart, I need to kick myself. Is there a way I can check to see if it is straight now, or would I need to have a machine shop check it?
 

WarrenP

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#17
Metalchipper, I found a bearing place not far from here, planning on taking one of the bearings there . Hopefully they can match it. I think they have TIN bearings there. Thanks for the post. Anyone, if anything I should know or mention to the store guy let me know, please.
....and fomogo, you made me nervous. It looks like I should order a new spindle from grizzly... I dont want to take a chance and have it not quite right after installing new bearings etc. Also, I seem to have noticed the lathe seemed a tiny bit out of balance after. This way all should be good when done. Thanks all for your input. If I have a question I will add to this I spose. Warren
 

metalchiper

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#18
i think i would play it safe and replace anything that is even the least bit suspicious. Personally i would hate to do the job more than once ( actually i would hate to do it once ) my Grizzly 0602 has been modified with a new 220 3 phase motor and a phase converter now i dont begin to know exactly what was done i did the machining on the new motor mount and almost all the putting it together. I have a good friend who owned a electrical contracting company who did all the electrical. he had me do all the rest so i would learn a bit. i now have speed control from 35 rpm to 2400. i still have to change gears but have a lot large range of speed with each setting. i needed the lower rpm so i could thread rifle barrels.
 

WarrenP

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#19
Nice, 35 rpm is pretty low... That's why I got the G0752 model for the easy changing of speeds with a dial instead of changing a belt for every little difference I might want. Yea, I agree I would rather change anything that might be bad now instead of fooling with it over and over. I guess this will teach me to check everything before I do something on it. Im glad FOMOCO mentioned it, I was taking it for granted the spindle was probably good. Gonna order it tonight and by Saturday get to that bearing shop to hopefully get the new bearings. Then I will be set to get it back together. I hate having it apart and not being able to use it when I want. : ) Only good thing is im always curious on how they build different things and this way I learn about it, but getting to expensive this way.
 

WarrenP

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#21
That's cool jwmelvin, Im definitely not an expert but I think they are nice lathes, there are definitely lots out there better but they cost a lot more too. It seems if something isn't up to par on these you can always do an upgrade and improve them alot. Great for hobbyists. Thanks for your interest, I will keep everyone informed on what happens here. Keep your fingers crossed..
 

metalchiper

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#22
Nice, 35 rpm is pretty low... That's why I got the G0752 model for the easy changing of speeds with a dial instead of changing a belt for every little difference I might want. Yea, I agree I would rather change anything that might be bad now instead of fooling with it over and over. I guess this will teach me to check everything before I do something on it. Im glad FOMOCO mentioned it, I was taking it for granted the spindle was probably good. Gonna order it tonight and by Saturday get to that bearing shop to hopefully get the new bearings. Then I will be set to get it back together. I hate having it apart and not being able to use it when I want. : ) Only good thing is im always curious on how they build different things and this way I learn about it, but getting to expensive this way.
yes, 35 rpm is so slow I could fall asleep before i need to move the half nut. i can say for sure the 150 rpm that is the slowest it went prior to having the new motor and controller added was just to fast for threading. i have done it but i prefer about half that speed. I have never crashed my machine and sure dont want to. now if i can just get the damn dro added to my mill i will be set for a while. keep us informed about your change of bearings.
 

WarrenP

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#23
Well, I went to a bearing store today with an old bearing. The guy went back to look for one but they were out of it.They usually keep it in stock but were out. He is ordering 2 for me , should get tomorrow or friday. They will be TimKin Bearings. Hopefully can install this weekend and see how it all works.
 

WarrenP

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#25
Yes, I will be glad to post them here. It should make it easier for the next person to find the correct bearings and then they can order through the net if they don't have a Bearing store near them. Will post as soon as I know them. Warren
 

WarrenP

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#26
Unfortunately because of the bad weather in the mountains (snow, etc) the bearing company didn't get their delivery on Friday.. I will have to wait until Monday for the bearings. Hopefully ]I can get time from work to pick them up Monday. Regarding the bearing part numbers, it seems the number is 32009 for the different manufacturers but each one puts a different extension on the end.. ie 32009/P6 etc. If anyone looks for this nearing you should be able to do a search on the 32009 number and you will get the right size bearing, from there they may have a coupe different extensions Which would be a different class of bearing. Any 32009 bearing should work. I have found different 32009 bearings on the net, all of which were the same size. At any rate I will let you know what numbers of the ones I receive are when I get them. Warren
 

metalchiper

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#27
very wise to purchase quality bearings. replacing them once is going to be all the work you want to do.
 

WarrenP

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#29
I picked up my Timken bearings today, for anyone interested the part number is 32009X. I will be installing them very soon, hopefully starting tomorrow after work. Will keep you updated on how it goes. I plan on pressing them on tomorrow but I need to get a 2 inch outer diameter pipe with 1/8 inch thickness so it will put the pressure on the inside of the bearing and not any pressure on the roller bearings themselves. That way it is safer for the bearing, would not like to put pressure on the wrong place and mess up the bearings. They might be able to take it but I don't want to take a chance.
 

WarrenP

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#30
OK, today I bought a piece of abs 2 inch pipe and cut it and used hose clamps to squeeze it down to the right size so when I tapped in the bearing it would only put pressure on the inside race of the bearing. I got the outboard one on then put it in the headstock and blocked the chuck side of the spindle so I could "tap" the left side bearing on. I got it close to where it should be, still needs to go another apprx 1/4 inch. I am thinking I can press it the rest of the way by turning the nut on the end until it is in place. Hope this way sounds like the correct way to anyone that knows about it. Was the best way I could think of doing it. Any suggestions, comments feel free to let me know. Am hoping to get it tightened down correctly tomorrow and all together... we will find out I guess. Then after it is all in and seems like its working well I will check the spindle runout, head stock alignment and then headstock to tail stock alignment. Keep your fingers crossed for me. :eek 2:
 
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