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Gunsmiths Please help
- Thread starter Badge171
- Start date
looks good Frank...you will find its much easier dialing in a barrel using a spider. Pins, check msc or enco. I mounted mine to a blank back plate from Shars. I like your idea of mounting the pins directly to the spider. I can gain a inch or so to do barrels less than 18". Looks like you used some cold rolled?
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2012
- Messages
- 75
Here is the method I use. Make a bushing that will fit near the end of the barrel then and put in a paper liner to prevent marring. Then set up the barrel in a 4 jaw chuck and lathe center with the bushing installed. Then turn the bushing so you have a true surface on which to run your steady rest. You can then work on the end of the barrel. The picture example is a shot gun barrel that I am machining to fit a choke tube. Hope this helps.
[h=3]No Lathe Way To Cut A Perfect Crown In Minutes & Improve Accuracy[/h]
Modified power driver with spring-loaded adapter provides a fast, no lathe way to cut a smooth, concentric muzzle crown on both rifle and handgun barrels for an immediate improvement in accuracy. Expandable pilots provide precise alignment of the facing cutter with the bore. Spring-loaded adapter with neoprene damper absorbs vibration providing a consistent, chatter-free cut. Includes two facing cutters for 0° or 11° crowns, each with precision ground three-blade inserts that quickly and easily remove the toughest material and provide a perfectly square barrel crown. Outside chamfer cutter deburrs the sharp edges for a clean, even finish. Kits include 0° facing cutter, 11° facing cutter, outside chamfer cutter, and two or five pilots depending on kit, plus a 1/8" pilot wrench, 5/64" allen wrench, setup gauge, power driver or manual handle, adapter, instructions, and storage case. Manual version includes a manual handle and adapter for slow even cuts and precise indexing of muzzle brakes. 2-Pilot Kit contains .22 and .30 caliber pilots. 5-Pilot Kit contains .22, .30, 6mm, 7mm, and .338 caliber pilots. Power driver with adapter and neoprene damper also available separately.
Big Book Catalog, Issue:66, Page:481
Mini-Catalogs, Issue:05, Page:014
New Product Supplement, Issue:544, Page:000
SPECS: Facing Cutters - Steel, carbide inserts. Chamfer Cutter – Steel. 1.25” (32mm) diameter. Pilots - Steel, 8¾” (22.2cm) overall length. Kits include manual handle, 0° facing cutter,11° facing cutter, outside chamfer cutter, (2 or 5) pilots, 1⁄8" pilot wrench, 5⁄64" allen wrench, setup gauge, power driver, adapter, instructions, and storage case. 2-Pilot Kit - .22 and .30 caliber pilots. 5-Pilot Kit - .22, .30, 6mm, 7mm, and .338 caliber pilots.
[h=1]MANSON PRECISION - PRECISION REAMERS MUZZLE CROWN REFACING KIT[/h]this is what I would use
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2013
- Messages
- 34
If you bought a new gun, don't even think about what you are suggesting. Remington will make it right. Either take the gun back to where you bought it or send it to the Remington factory.
If this is not an option, carefully reconsider what you are proposing. There may be any number of "work arounds," but you should not be doing this type of gun work without a barrel vise and wrench. It is questionable whether you should do any type of barrel or action work without a vise and wrench.
You can use a steady rest and indicate the action in a four jaw, but this is definitely not the optimum way of doing things. You can use either the Manson crowning tool or the one from Brownells without a lathe, but again this is not the optimum way of doing things. Remember that the goal is precision. If you are going to sacrifice precision, you probably can't improve on factory accuracy with the quality of today's firearms.
If you insist on doing the repairs yourself, and will not buy a barrel vise and wrench, cut the barrel off with a hacksaw past the damaged rifling and crown the barrel with one of the available handtools. The problem is that the Brownell tool doesn't chamfer the end of the barrel. The Manson tool does but costs some $500. You can buy several barrel vises and wrenches for this kind of money.
If you take my advice, remove the barrel from the action. Either use a spider (by far the best choice) or make a bushing with the OD to fit the spindle bore and the ID to fit the barrel at the diameter near the end of the spindle bore. The second works fairly well but will not win any national competitions.
If you use the spider, indicate the barrel at both the headstock and the spider. Use aluminum shims to avoid damaging the finish. Runout should be less than .0005. Obviously, the less runout the better. Although I am the rankest of amateurs, I can generally get to within .0002 and often much less. You will then have the muzzle end of the barrel very near the end of the chuck jaws in a very stable position. You can then cutoff the barrel to remove the damaged rifling, crown it, and chamfer the muzzle.
If you choose to try anything else, plan on buying or making a barrel vise and wrench to remove the barrel that you tried to fix and buying a new barrel. I have had good luck with barrels from Shilen.
If this is not an option, carefully reconsider what you are proposing. There may be any number of "work arounds," but you should not be doing this type of gun work without a barrel vise and wrench. It is questionable whether you should do any type of barrel or action work without a vise and wrench.
You can use a steady rest and indicate the action in a four jaw, but this is definitely not the optimum way of doing things. You can use either the Manson crowning tool or the one from Brownells without a lathe, but again this is not the optimum way of doing things. Remember that the goal is precision. If you are going to sacrifice precision, you probably can't improve on factory accuracy with the quality of today's firearms.
If you insist on doing the repairs yourself, and will not buy a barrel vise and wrench, cut the barrel off with a hacksaw past the damaged rifling and crown the barrel with one of the available handtools. The problem is that the Brownell tool doesn't chamfer the end of the barrel. The Manson tool does but costs some $500. You can buy several barrel vises and wrenches for this kind of money.
If you take my advice, remove the barrel from the action. Either use a spider (by far the best choice) or make a bushing with the OD to fit the spindle bore and the ID to fit the barrel at the diameter near the end of the spindle bore. The second works fairly well but will not win any national competitions.
If you use the spider, indicate the barrel at both the headstock and the spider. Use aluminum shims to avoid damaging the finish. Runout should be less than .0005. Obviously, the less runout the better. Although I am the rankest of amateurs, I can generally get to within .0002 and often much less. You will then have the muzzle end of the barrel very near the end of the chuck jaws in a very stable position. You can then cutoff the barrel to remove the damaged rifling, crown it, and chamfer the muzzle.
If you choose to try anything else, plan on buying or making a barrel vise and wrench to remove the barrel that you tried to fix and buying a new barrel. I have had good luck with barrels from Shilen.
Thanks all
I did get the gun back to Remington, It was an employee sale piece , still the guarantee is good . that should take care the barrel problem, I hope. though Im still making the tools for my lathe
Thanks again for the advice
Regards
Frank
I did get the gun back to Remington, It was an employee sale piece , still the guarantee is good . that should take care the barrel problem, I hope. though Im still making the tools for my lathe
Thanks again for the advice
Regards
Frank
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2013
- Messages
- 8
D1-4 collar is available from Shars for @ $55 http://www.shars.com/products/view/978/Lathe_Chuck_Adapter_Plate_6quot_D14
A spider can be had from Grizzly $60 http://www.grizzly.com/products/Alu...BE1125?gcsct=0ChMIwIPg-q3MugIVjvfnCh1ICwAAEAA
Bolt them together for a useful add on to a nice lathe
A spider can be had from Grizzly $60 http://www.grizzly.com/products/Alu...BE1125?gcsct=0ChMIwIPg-q3MugIVjvfnCh1ICwAAEAA
Bolt them together for a useful add on to a nice lathe
The problem with mounting that particular Grizzly spider to a D1-4 backplate is, no matter how its oriented, one of the 4 holes will interfere with the mounting pin hardware. I tried the exact setup you posted...ended up making my own, which came out with much tighter tolerances and better 3/8-24 threads. The threaded holes in the Grizzly spider are pretty loose fitting. They would work fine though.
