Hacksaw And Cutoff Q & Observations

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SE18

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I'd like to own a bandsaw but I'm challenged for space and most of my projects are tiny 1:13.7 train projects. I've been using a simple (nonpowered) hacksaw to cut small pieces of steel and a HF 14" cutoff device for larger pieces.

The other day, I cut a railroad spike in half for a project (long story) using the 14" cutoff. It took a couple of minutes. At this point, I got curious. How long would a hacksaw cut thru it?

So I took another spike, stuck it in the vise proceeding to cut, using a hand feed rate specified in Machinery's handbook and some cutting oil. I cut through the spike in about the same amount of time and got a thinner, cleaner cut.

So I'm thinking to just use the 14" cutoff for stuff like thin angle iron (think bedframe) and stuff like that and a hacksaw for biggere stuff (the opposite of what I was doing).

Any thoughts? I thought I'd just share my newbee discovery.
 
All I use is a hacksaw. I have two, one with a fine blade and one with a coarse blade, though I think I use the fine one the most. I don't have much room either, but I like the simplicity of a hacksaw.

Sandro Di Filippo
 
Try Lenox blades in a high tension frame and some wax stick lubricant. I can cut through a 1" mild steel rod in 8 strokes with that combo (witnessed and certified to be true!) and you should see it go through aluminum bar stock. I use 18 tooth blades for most things, finer for thin stock.
 
Thanks; I see I'm not the only old saw. BTW, I was using 24 teeth, pack of 50 from HF; been breaking them. Seems the 2 holes are very slightly off, creating too much tension. But they were very cheap. A lot of the teeth were falling off and it was still cutting. I definitely need to follow some of your advice and try Lenox.

For wax can it be candle wax or toilet bowl wax used to seat the tank; what kind?

One other observation. I switch hands when operating so I don't get a sore arm and repetitive motion.

I once saw a photo of 2 chinese on each side of a railroad rail hacksawing a railroad track in 2; I visited that country in 1985 and back then, everything, even roads, were done by hand, though there weren't any cars on the road yet except for gov't officials
 
Lol, yeah, some of us grew up with hacksaws instead of 4X6's. I prefer a high-tension frame and have one each from Lenox and Starrett. They're cheap nowadays - maybe $25.00 on ebay.

I prefer bimetal blades from Lenox. I've tried many brands but Lenox blades cut fast, clean and seem to have a very long service life. I use the "no less than 3-teeth engaged in the work" rule most of the time and have blades from 10 to 32 teeth but use the 18 teeth per inch for most stuff.

I like Castrol wax stick lube but any of them will do. I had some Do-All but ran out but that one works good! Just smear some on the blade and it lubes, reduces clogging and will amaze you at how well it works. I have not tried toilet bowl wax but if you try it, let us know how you like it.

Chinese workers are the epitome of "if there's a will, there's a way"! Many third world countries do it, too. Only us Americans seem to need so many contraptions, it seems. I use a file for many things that can't be done on a mill - I doubt they even teach the kids what a file is anymore.
 
Here's the Hacksaw I'm using: http://www.lowes.com/pd_111688-930-324285_0__?productId=1002859

seems fine but if there's a better one, let me know. I'm 58 yr old and work out so a little bit of exercise is good, especially in the garage in winter to warm up on

I hear you on Lenox brand blades

btw, the HF blades don't have arrows pointing, does it make a difference which way teeth face? Also does it cut on both push and pull? I'm applying moderate pressure.
 
I second the 2 hacksaws approach. I cut most of my stuff by hand (I have a small underpowered bandsaw that's kind of useless) and bought a 10pk of 12/14tpi bimetallic blades (begins with an M, can't remember the name) off eBay and they cut amazingly well. Then I tried cutting some tubing and cursed their very existence. So a second hacksaw with a 20tpi blade was secured and now I'm happy as a clam.

Teeth face forward to cut on the forward (power) stroke. Lift to pull back. I use dark sulfur cutting oil on steel and WD40 on alu, helps keep the blade running freely in the slot.
 
Your hacksaw looks fine, just spring for good blades.

Matt, might those blades be Morse? If so, good blades. I actually have 4 hacksaws, all with blades of different tooth count. And I have a 5X7 horiz/vert bandsaw. And I have a 14" abrasive cutoff saw. A man can't have too many saws, or files for that matter.

I agree with Matt - teeth face forward, lift on the backstroke. Also helps to use a natural stroke and move your feet until your body aligns correctly. Then you just push with your arms and shift your weight on the forward stroke and you're cutting. I tend not to put a lot of downward pressure on the blade; just enough to keep the blade cutting freely. Like all cutting tools, cutting speed is more important than depth of cut for edge longevity so a moving, lubricated blade will cut much faster and cleaner.
 
that's the one, thanks Mike. Brain not present, only basic functions working :) $16 or 18 for 10 off Amazon, which I thought was a deal, haven't even got close to dulling the 1st one, so they'll probably last me years.

The right tooth count was the biggest revelation for me. Cutting 1in thick steel with a 22tpi blade is tedious in the extreme, but the 12/14tpi blade is several times quicker. Still a workout, but now I can lift the piece out of the vise afterwards :D Then again, that 12/14tpi blade is almost unusable on thin wall tubing, whereas the 20 or 22tpi blade is a dream. As always the right tool for the job.

Technique-wise - a long even stroke, using as much of the blade as possible, works best for me. Less blade heating, better chip evacuation, less tiring. Plus you can use your whole body like Mike said.
 
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