Hacksaw And Cutoff Q & Observations

Even the old Marvel had a system that took the pressure of the blade on the return stroke . It didn't look like it did much but it just lifted a little.
 
mikey said:
Try Lenox blades in a high tension frame and some wax stick lubricant. I can cut through a 1" mild steel rod in 8 strokes with that combo (witnessed and certified to be true!) and you should see it go through aluminum bar stock. I use 18 tooth blades for most things, finer for thin stock.
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Wow ! 8 strokes to cut 1"' mild steel bar

I think that is amazing - I just went up to the shed and it took me 83 strokes to go through 1" mild steel round bar using a bimetallic Sutton 18tpi blade.

Clearly I am doing something terribly wrong if I should be able to do it in 8 strokes.

Would be grateful for any pointers to web pages or videos that show how to achieve this please ? - or does it simply come from years of experience and practice ?

Bill
 
No, not a typo. I had to cut the OEM rear axle on a reel mower to get the wheels off as the normal way would not work. I used a new blade in a Lenox high tension frame, some stick wax, had a good angle on it and it cut through in 8 strokes. Did this for my neighbor and even he had a hard time believing it and he was standing right there. If I didn't do it then I wouldn't say I did.

Bill, there are no secrets to using a hacksaw. I hesitate to put down anything about it as it is very basic but here is what I do:
  • Use the right blade for the job - no less than 3 teeth in the work to avoid blade damage.
  • Use a good blade, preferably bi-metal from a good maker.
  • Use a good frame. I prefer Lenox but Starrett makes one that works well. Haven't used other makes so cannot attest.
  • Use stick wax - it lubes and cools, lasts through a large number of cuts and doesn't make an oily mess. Re-apply as needed to keep the blade moving smoothly.
  • Secure the work so it cannot move. The cut point should be close to the vise or an anchor point. Ideally, the work should be at the level of your elbow. This allows you to put some weight into the cut with very little effort.
  • Everyone has a natural line of travel when cutting. I move my feet until a push with my arms and a shift of my body wight moves along a natural, relaxed line in the desired direction - straight across the work. This one thing is worth paying attention to - it really helps you cut faster, harder and straighter without working too hard at it.
  • Raise the rear of the saw about 10 degrees to start the cut using a light forward stroke. Make a few more strokes to establish the cutting action of the blade and then lower the rear of the saw as you stroke lightly until it is horizontal and cuts a mark along the cut line. This guides the blade as it goes deeper and helps to keep it vertical. From this point on the blade is kept level throughout the cut.
  • I then start to take heavy cuts, using some of my body weight to bear down on the saw but most of my weight is behind the saw, moving it forward. I start the stroke with my weight on my back foot and end it with my weight fully on the forward foot. Then I lift the saw and repeat. I use arm motion only to extend the cut along the full length of the blade; most of the cut is done with weight transfer. Any time the blade is moving, it is cutting. If it isn't then my blade is dull and I change it. I cut only on the forward stroke and lift slightly to bring it back.
  • As I cut I am watching the blade to be sure it remains vertical. If my feet are in the right position I rarely, if ever, cut off the line or off angle.
I should also mention that I use one hand on the forward end of the saw frame and my the cutting force and body weight is pretty evenly distributed between both hands.

When using a high tension saw frame you are able to put a lot more downward force on the blade without distortion. The flimsier hardware store frames will not support heavy cutting so I use them only for thin walled materials that require a more gentle approach.

Hope that helps. Like I said, not much to it. If there is a trick to any of this, its using weight transfer to generate force.
 
ditto on the thanks for tips.

Some mention wax. Is it parafin-based or bees?

Also, should the tension be removed when blade not in use?

And, if you go too fast, seems the blade might overheat, not to mention repetitive stress on the arms. I take breaks when working and alternate hands. Just a minor tip from me.
 
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