Help with Mill/drill

[markba633csi]

These kinds of caps are not polarized. Peel back the plastic and see if there is really a hole there. I would expect to see some capacitor "juice" coming out if there was a rupture. Also, caps like these usually have a pressure plug on top which blows first. Besides, momentarily shorting the ac power and tripping the breaker usually doesn't cause capacitor damage like that.

Since you reported different behavior between forward and reverse there must still be an issue with the switch or wiring and/or jumpers.
Do you know for sure the switch internal contact arrangement is the same as the old one? Did the switch come with any diagrams? Do you have a multimeter available? We may have to "ring out" the switch to verify the contacts. I can help you there.

One important point on this model is that there are two blue wires coming down from the motor to the switch- if those are swapped it won't work properly
-Mark

 

[weejax]

the saga continues...replaced both capacitors. same thing--motor hums but does not move in switch position 2 and does nothing in position 1 or 0. I am including a diagram of the new switch I bought. It is a HZ5D-10/1.7 M08 1.7kW 10A made by Zhuco. The old switch was the same specs as new but made by cansen (or ? now called changxin). the switches are indistinguishable in physically and in terms of their labelling of the connections (the new one did come with jumpers on one side which were removable, you can see them in one of the pics). I have the wiring diagram from the new one but not the old one. not sure if it can be assumed the internal connections are the same for both, im guessing not. i labelled every wire and reconnected them into the new one the same way as the old. im also attaching pics of all the jumper wires connections on the old one and a pic of new one wired up for reference. the harbor freight manual doesnt seem to help w switch wiring, nor does the g1006 manual. greatly appreciate any help. if anyone knows of a good replacement switch they have used in the past I will give that a shot. I dont really care about reverse. thanks very much

 

[silence dogood]

The motor does not spin at all just hums or nothing? If so, you may have a burnt or open centrifugal switch in the motor. What the switch does is when you start the motor, current will go to the start winding. Once the motor gets up to speed, you don't need the start winding, The winding will shut off because the spinning switch opens up by the centrifugal force. To reverse the motor, you just reverse the wires to the start winding. That is why the switch is the way it is. That is also why you have a start winding, it is like giving the motor a magnetic kick to get it spinning. So you may have to take the motor apart and check the switch. When the motor is not running, it should be a very low resistance. It could be burnt and/or open. Sometimes cleaning the contacts and bending(easy now) them back will help.

 

[weejax]

The motor does not spin at all just hums or nothing? If so, you may have a burnt or open centrifugal switch in the motor. What the switch does is when you start the motor, current will go to the start winding. Once the motor gets up to speed, you don't need the start winding, The winding will shut off because the spinning switch opens up by the centrifugal force. To reverse the motor, you just reverse the wires to the start winding. That is why the switch is the way it is. That is also why you have a start winding, it is like giving the motor a magnetic kick to get it spinning. So you may have to take the motor apart and check the switch. When the motor is not running, it should be a very low resistance. It could be burnt and/or open. Sometimes cleaning the contacts and bending(easy now) them back will help.

The motor does not spin at all just hums or nothing? If so, you may have a burnt or open centrifugal switch in the motor. What the switch does is when you start the motor, current will go to the start winding. Once the motor gets up to speed, you don't need the start winding, The winding will shut off because the spinning switch opens up by the centrifugal force. To reverse the motor, you just reverse the wires to the start winding. That is why the switch is the way it is. That is also why you have a start winding, it is like giving the motor a magnetic kick to get it spinning. So you may have to take the motor apart and check the switch. When the motor is not running, it should be a very low resistance. It could be burnt and/or open. Sometimes cleaning the contacts and bending(easy now) them back will help.

Yes, it just hums in one position of the switch. If I had it wired right I would expect a hum when I put it in reverse too but it does nothing in that position. I'm hoping it's something in the switch but may have to ultimately take it all apart. Trying to avoid that given my propensity for frying things.

 

[markba633csi]

I had a hunch there might still be a wiring or switch issue, back in post #11
I'm heading to bed now but tomorrow I can take a look. These switches come in different internal styles, you can't go by the external appearance
-Mark
Try this diagram with the Zhuco switch:
Be careful not to mix up the white from the incoming power with the motor's white.
Trace the wires back to the power cord to verify if necessary
PS if the rotation is backwards from the switch handle, swap the blue and white wires at 2,4 and 6,8

 

[weejax]

thanks a bunch mark! really appreciate the help. i acutally found what appears to be the original switch on taobao (chinese ebay). it was an interesting endeavor--you cant order anything from taobao as a US citizen but there are third party companies that will buy the stuff for you from taobao and then ship it to you. I was hesitant at first but got the part in the mail yesterday. i couldnt find anything resembling the switch i needed through any of the usual channels (ebay, amazon, aliexpress, banggood etc) so if you are having trouble finding something its worth a shot to check out taobao. just use google translate. thanks again for the sketch. going to try this switch and see if it works. if not, that sketch will come in handy.

 

[markba633csi]

Sounds good- I'm a bit curious as to your criteria for choosing a switch this time compared to the first one you bought
and if they provide a data sheet what the differences are
-M

 

[weejax]

it is made by same manufacturer as the original one, can-sen. same model number. i am hoping they wouldnt have seen the need to re-work it. will see. they didnt give a wiring diagram. that would have been nice. Ive looked all over the internet and cant find one for that switch. you seem to know alot about this particular machine--did you replace your switch?

 

[markba633csi]

I don't own one of those but I have helped countless people get their wiring issues sorted out, both milling machines and lathes
Most motors have the same basic configuration, with a few exceptions. Switches can differ considerably though, and these Chinese ones with a zillion terminals throw most folks for a loop. The older Furnas brand ones with only 6 terminals are easier but still confusing to many. Sometime soon I want to do a step-by-step that covers any motor and switch combo but I'm not there yet.
-M
PS with the same model number it should be the same, but there's no guarantee it will be as it is with USA stuff.
You really don't know for sure without either a data sheet or a bench test with an ohmmeter, preferably the latter

 

[weejax]

Well, i will see if i can get this switch to work. If not is there a switch you are familiar with that i could try? thanks for your time