• We want to encourage those of you who ENJOY our site and find it USEFUL to DONATE and UPGRADE your membership from active member to donating or premium membership. If you want to know the differences in membership benefits, please visit THIS PAGE:

    https://www.hobby-machinist.com/premium/

    Donating memberships start at just $10 per year. These memberships are in fact donations that help pay our costs, and keep our site running!
    Thank you for your donation, God Bless You

  • As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time. It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop. In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.

    I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too. I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation. I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will. Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with. I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons. Other than that, I will not be around. I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
    --Nelson
[4]

[How do I?] How do I remove this?

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#1
Pictured is an ER11 collet tool holder on a 600w spindle motor with an 8mm shaft. (I think I am using the terms correctly) I want to remove the tool holder. I have removed the set screws and tried everything with the maximum force I feel I can use without damaging the motor. This seems like it should be an easy task but there must be something I don't know as far as how this is mounted.
 

Attachments

4ssss

Registered
Registered
Joined
Apr 25, 2017
Messages
370
Likes
213
#2
Try heating it. It should expand. Or try a bearing puller, if it has a thru hole.
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#3
What about using an ER collet to hold a short bolt as large as it will hold. Then use a pneumatic impact nut driver to unscrew it or loosen it from the shaft. Maybe squirt some penetrating oil in the set screw holes a few minutes prior to doing this. Not familiar with your problem, good luck anyways.
 

juiceclone

Registered
Registered
Joined
Oct 24, 2014
Messages
199
Likes
112
#4
yes .. as above, probably threaded on. note which way the motor runs, to be sure you're removing in the right rotation. U can put a well fitting wrench on that flat on the fitting, and smack the wrench in the correct direction with a small pall peen hammer. smaller hammer moves faster and shaft has less time to spin, u may break it loose.
 

juiceclone

Registered
Registered
Joined
Oct 24, 2014
Messages
199
Likes
112
#5
yes .. as above, probably threaded on. note which way the motor runs, to be sure you're removing in the right rotation. U can put a well fitting wrench on that flat on the fitting, and smack the wrench in the correct direction with a small pall peen hammer. smaller hammer moves faster and shaft has less time to spin, u may break it loose.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#6
Try heating it. It should expand. Or try a bearing puller, if it has a thru hole.
Are you talking about heating it with a torch? I tried a hot air gun but no luck.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#7
yes .. as above, probably threaded on. note which way the motor runs, to be sure you're removing in the right rotation. U can put a well fitting wrench on that flat on the fitting, and smack the wrench in the correct direction with a small pall peen hammer. smaller hammer moves faster and shaft has less time to spin, u may break it loose.
It is made so that you can reverse the wires to the power supply and the motor will reverse direction. I didn't think it was threaded on, but it might be. There is now way to tell, as far as I can see, if it is threaded, and with way the threads are aligned if it actually is threaded.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#8
What about using an ER collet to hold a short bolt as large as it will hold. Then use a pneumatic impact nut driver to unscrew it or loosen it from the shaft. Maybe squirt some penetrating oil in the set screw holes a few minutes prior to doing this. Not familiar with your problem, good luck anyways.
I like that idea. The penetrating oil will help whether threaded or not. I wish I knew if it was threaded and which way.
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#9
The ER nut is threaded RH and is designed to tighten when turning. I would be surprised if the chuck is threaded on LH for that reason. Logically it should be a RH thread if there is a thread.
 

Ray C

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
Staff member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
Nov 16, 2012
Messages
5,215
Likes
1,403
#10
Is it threaded on the shaft perhaps? That would explain a lot...

If it's not threaded and if there's a hole in the end, try making some kind of a gear puller.

Ray
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#11
The ER nut is threaded RH and is designed to tighten when turning. I would be surprised if the chuck is threaded on LH for that reason. Logically it should be a RH thread if there is a thread.
Yes, but the ER nut is not the piece I am trying to remove. I am trying to remove the piece the ER threads on to.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#12
Is it threaded on the shaft perhaps? That would explain a lot...

If it's not threaded and if there's a hole in the end, try making some kind of a gear puller.

Ray
Yep that's where I am at now. The first one I made gave it up so now I'm building a new one....stronger!

I may just take it to a machine shop.
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#13
I like that idea. The penetrating oil will help whether threaded or not. I wish I knew if it was threaded and which way.
Yes, but the ER nut is not the piece I am trying to remove. I am trying to remove the piece the ER threads on to.
What I meant to say is that the same forces apply to the ER chuck mount as do to the ER nut. So if we are trying to determine whether the chuck mount would be threaded RH or LH, my guess is RH, same as the ER nut and same as most (if not all) spindle threads.
 

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,587
Likes
1,758
#14
Looking down the hole the set screw came out. What do you see?
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#15
Looking down the hole the set screw came out. What do you see?
I see just smooth metal. No threads. This axle is not threaded. It's just VERY, VERY tight.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#17
I would make something like this.
View attachment 266062
Yes. I am in the process of making something like that. Hopefully it will work. If not, I may buy this item. What is the exact name for this and how much does it cost?
 

kd4gij

Active User
Registered
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
4,587
Likes
1,758
#18
It is called a bearing separator. On this side of the pond they start at around 40.00 For a set.
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#19
What if you looked up the specs on your motor to see if it identifies the output shaft profile?

PS After looking up some info I expect that you have a straight shaft (not threaded). It might be a shrink type fit if provision is made for when the holder heats up in use, it will not get sloppy on the motor shaft. I would think that you need to use that puller as shown above and heating the chuck body already mentioned would help.
 
Last edited:

MozamPete

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Jun 26, 2014
Messages
559
Likes
1,050
#20
What about making up an approximately ER collet shaped slug with a 8mm threaded hole down the middle. Put it in and tighten the ER collet retaining nut, then just wind in a long 8mm bolt to act like a bearing puller (I'm assuming you can see the end of the motor shaft through the collet holder).
 
Last edited:

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#21
Good idea Pete. Maybe the slug should replace the collet instead of held in it, the max of ER11 collets is only .3125'' or thereabouts.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#23
Maybe it's got a screw in the end of the shaft like a drill chuck???
What if you looked up the specs on your motor to see if it identifies the output shaft profile?

PS After looking up some info I expect that you have a straight shaft (not threaded). It might be a shrink type fit if provision is made for when the holder heats up in use, it will not get sloppy on the motor shaft. I would think that you need to use that puller as shown above and heating the chuck body already mentioned would help.
What about making up an approximately ER collet shaped slug with a 8mm threaded hole down the middle. Put it in and tighten the ER collet retaining nut, then just wind in a long 8mm bolt to act like a bearing puller (I'm assuming you can see the end of the motor shaft through the collet holder).
Thanks for all the ideas guys. Some very good ones!

I built a puller. I used a 5/16 bolt (just under 8mm) to push out the 8mm shaft. (Unthreaded, no screw in the end.) I twisted the bolt off and never budged the shaft. My next effort will be rebuilding the puller, cooling the collet holder (if that is the correct name) and shaft with dry ice, then heating the holder with a torch and try the puller.

What would it take to cut this damn thing off? It looks like very hard steel!

The other option is ...buying another motor without the collet holder, they cost less than $50, but that would be admitting defeat.
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#24
Good idea Pete. Maybe the slug should replace the collet instead of held in it, the max of ER11 collets is only .3125'' or thereabouts.
What about making up an approximately ER collet shaped slug with a 8mm threaded hole down the middle. Put it in and tighten the ER collet retaining nut, then just wind in a long 8mm bolt to act like a bearing puller (I'm assuming you can see the end of the motor shaft through the collet holder).
Yes I can see the end of the shaft. Good idea, a 5/16 nut will fit in the holder. The collet nut will screw on. Then I can just screw a 5/16 bolt straight down onto the shaft. A hell of a lot easier than rebuilding my puller. Problem is, I already twisted off a 5/16 bolt. Do they make extra hard bolts for certain purposes?
 

Z2V

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
615
Likes
563
#25
I’ll just throw this in. If you have already broken a bolt if you go back with another try giving it tension then a few shots with a dead blow hammer. Then add a small amount more tension, then another few shots with the hammer. Repeat, repeat
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#26
I’ll just throw this in. If you have already broken a bolt if you go back with another try giving it tension then a few shots with a dead blow hammer. Then add a small amount more tension, then another few shots with the hammer. Repeat, repeat
I like it!
 

Z2V

H-M Supporter - Sustaining Member
H-M Platinum Supporter ($50)
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
615
Likes
563
#27
“ Edit” , Hit the head of the bolt
 

Tozguy

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Feb 15, 2013
Messages
1,629
Likes
1,068
#29
No don't give up
Yes to a new hi grade bolt and nut, 5/16 fine thread
Yes to putting tension on the bolt then hammer till tension drops (not a dead blow, it needs to vibrate lots)
Yes to heating it up while there is tension on the bolt
We will get this sucker
Hooray for our side!
 

vin421

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Mar 4, 2018
Messages
34
Likes
15
#30
No don't give up
Yes to a new hi grade bolt and nut, 5/16 fine thread
Yes to putting tension on the bolt then hammer till tension drops (not a dead blow, it needs to vibrate lots)
Yes to heating it up while there is tension on the bolt
We will get this sucker
Hooray for our side!
Hell yea we'll get this sucker!
 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top