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Run away from that junk.
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How Expensive Is A Sloppy Table On A Mill???
- Thread starter B.R. McCall
- Start date
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- Feb 5, 2016
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- Joined
- Feb 5, 2016
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That is the purpose of this post, to try and get an idea about a price range and complexity of needed repair. I have been watching Craigslist for a little more than a year, and where I found this. $2500 seems to be about the lowest a decent mill of any size other than a mini.
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- Feb 5, 2016
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I'm about an hour and a half North West of Fort Pierce now, but Fort Pierce is where I grew up.
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Well, I was hoping to be able to maybe replace the X and y axis threaded rods and the (I think) acme nuts and have a decent machine. Even though the owner has indicated that he was open to a lower offer, it sounds like I will be passing up this "great" deal.
If anyone in the central Florida area would be willing to help me look over a machine and maybe mentor me a bit once I have one, I would love to hear from you!
If anyone in the central Florida area would be willing to help me look over a machine and maybe mentor me a bit once I have one, I would love to hear from you!
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- Feb 5, 2016
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Not around here!
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- Mar 31, 2015
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I have a friend who lives in Tallahassee and I am amazed at the total lack of industrial base in the entire state. That is probably what drives up the price versus those of us who live in the rust belt.
If you're not skilled in repairing big heavy machinery with fairly tight tolerances, keep looking.
If you're willing to learn, this might be a good one, but it is still might expensive for what it is.
It sounds to me as though you probably need more practice making chips than rebuilding machinery and therefor, I'm gonna chime in with the rest and suggest you keep looking. I waited the better part of 40 years to get my first mill-notice I said my first mill!
Now, all that said, with regard to prices, with scrap iron in the $20/ton range, I'm excited to se machines that would once have been scrapped without a thought are now being sold for far more reasonable prices than as recently as last fall-at the cost of my having to trip over the pile of scrap iron my son for some reason refused to sell in spite of the fact he gets to keep the proceeds from that task.
If you're not skilled in repairing big heavy machinery with fairly tight tolerances, keep looking.
If you're willing to learn, this might be a good one, but it is still might expensive for what it is.
It sounds to me as though you probably need more practice making chips than rebuilding machinery and therefor, I'm gonna chime in with the rest and suggest you keep looking. I waited the better part of 40 years to get my first mill-notice I said my first mill!
Now, all that said, with regard to prices, with scrap iron in the $20/ton range, I'm excited to se machines that would once have been scrapped without a thought are now being sold for far more reasonable prices than as recently as last fall-at the cost of my having to trip over the pile of scrap iron my son for some reason refused to sell in spite of the fact he gets to keep the proceeds from that task.
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- Feb 5, 2016
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- 15
Thanks to everyone for the help, and I have moved on to waiting for another deal to come around.
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- Apr 14, 2014
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- 3,173
If you're truly interested find out the cost of replacing the lead screws and nuts this company specializes in rebuilding and selling parts for Bridgeport's, and Bridgeport clones.
http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/
As a side note a new Bridgeport comes from the factory with specifications that there should be no more than .007" back lash n the X axis and .005" in the Y axis. My machine was originally purchased new in 1972 by a local high school for $1,675.00. The price included a 6" Bridgeport swivel base vise, an auto lube system, a power feed on the X axis, and a set of R8 collets. Mine is the J2J model with a 1.5 hp motor and variable speed head. It was used in their shop classes from 1972 to 1990. It was retired until I purchased it in 2000.
You may be able to bring down the play depending on the style of lead screw nuts used in the machine. The earlier models used a single "split nut". This nut is roughly 6" long and cut half way through in the center. If it has this style nut you can remove it, finish cutting it in half and reinstall it. By using the adjusting screw you may be able to bring down the backlash considerably. If it doesn't have this style nut you'll have to replace at least the 2 nuts in each axis. New nuts can be purchased for about $35.00 per pair. The downside is that you may also have to replace both lead screws. Each screw costs in the neighborhood of $350.00.
I was able to reduce the backlash on my 1972 series I machine from .060" on the X axis to .007 by removing and splitting the original nut. That was 15 years ago and in all that time the backlash is still below .015".
In all likelihood the power feed motor burned out long ago. There are several manufacturers that make quality replacements for less than $300.00. My mill was originally equipped with an F style feed motor on the X axis. I simply made a shaft extension and reinstalled the original bearing and crank handle. Since I didn't replace the lead screw it has about 2" less travel in the X axis the normal 9" x 42" manual machine.
The DRO is another story. You didn't mention the brand, but most older versions are either no longer repairable, or cost more to repair than they are worth. You can buy new ones for $300.000 to $3,000.00 depending on the brand and model. If you're truly interested in this machine I wouldn't pay more than $1,000.00 for it. You'll be putting several hundred dollars into it just to bring it back to operating condition. Tooling will be another big expense. A vise will cost $200.00 to$300.00, and end mills will run anywhere from $3.00 each to $50.00 each depending on size style and construction.
Over time tooling will be your biggest investment. In the long run you'll spend at least double the cost of the mill to get the tooling necessary to complete most jobs.
http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/
As a side note a new Bridgeport comes from the factory with specifications that there should be no more than .007" back lash n the X axis and .005" in the Y axis. My machine was originally purchased new in 1972 by a local high school for $1,675.00. The price included a 6" Bridgeport swivel base vise, an auto lube system, a power feed on the X axis, and a set of R8 collets. Mine is the J2J model with a 1.5 hp motor and variable speed head. It was used in their shop classes from 1972 to 1990. It was retired until I purchased it in 2000.
You may be able to bring down the play depending on the style of lead screw nuts used in the machine. The earlier models used a single "split nut". This nut is roughly 6" long and cut half way through in the center. If it has this style nut you can remove it, finish cutting it in half and reinstall it. By using the adjusting screw you may be able to bring down the backlash considerably. If it doesn't have this style nut you'll have to replace at least the 2 nuts in each axis. New nuts can be purchased for about $35.00 per pair. The downside is that you may also have to replace both lead screws. Each screw costs in the neighborhood of $350.00.
I was able to reduce the backlash on my 1972 series I machine from .060" on the X axis to .007 by removing and splitting the original nut. That was 15 years ago and in all that time the backlash is still below .015".
In all likelihood the power feed motor burned out long ago. There are several manufacturers that make quality replacements for less than $300.00. My mill was originally equipped with an F style feed motor on the X axis. I simply made a shaft extension and reinstalled the original bearing and crank handle. Since I didn't replace the lead screw it has about 2" less travel in the X axis the normal 9" x 42" manual machine.
The DRO is another story. You didn't mention the brand, but most older versions are either no longer repairable, or cost more to repair than they are worth. You can buy new ones for $300.000 to $3,000.00 depending on the brand and model. If you're truly interested in this machine I wouldn't pay more than $1,000.00 for it. You'll be putting several hundred dollars into it just to bring it back to operating condition. Tooling will be another big expense. A vise will cost $200.00 to$300.00, and end mills will run anywhere from $3.00 each to $50.00 each depending on size style and construction.
Over time tooling will be your biggest investment. In the long run you'll spend at least double the cost of the mill to get the tooling necessary to complete most jobs.
That table should not move at all by tugging on it, unless it has missing parts (gibs) or is totally trashed, as others have pointed out.
Not familiar with that brand, but factory parts might not be readily available and Bridgeport parts may not be "drop-in" compatible.
For reference, I paid $900 for a 1967 Bridgeport series 1 J-head that had almost nothing wrong with it. The few parts I needed for the auto down-feed were readily available numerous places.
Pass on this one and widen your search.
Not familiar with that brand, but factory parts might not be readily available and Bridgeport parts may not be "drop-in" compatible.
For reference, I paid $900 for a 1967 Bridgeport series 1 J-head that had almost nothing wrong with it. The few parts I needed for the auto down-feed were readily available numerous places.
Pass on this one and widen your search.