How to--Gun Blueing

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smallfly

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help---i have never owned any firearms--but i have some hardware -levers arms and bolts and nuts- which i would like to recoat with something to make them ''black''-once more. i thought that maybe a gun blueing kit would do this for me . i have never done this before --do not know what the process is or a ''reputable'' manufacturer to buy from. this hardware is for my bridgeport mill which iam rebuilding from inside out. do you think gun blueing is a good idea?? i really need your input and all input will be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.:) re steve in montana
 
gun blueing

i always use the kit that walmart has it has the cleaner in it, all your parts has to be cleaned and buffed before you use and i always put mine in the even to warm up to about 90degree that way the pores open up a tad to take the blueing better, it may take 3 or 4 coats to get to your liking, now this wont stop rust its just for the color:biggrin: Mac
 
I've used Birchwood Casey Cold Bluing paste with success on numerous projects...

John
 
Birchwood Casey makes several cold blue products that work well or if the parts can be heated up with a torch, just heat them up, dip them in oil and burn it off. That leaves a nice durable black finish.

BTW, these suggestions will only work if the parts are carbon steel, which I assume they are. If they are aluminum, your options are limited to a coating (paint) or anodizing.

Tom
 
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I was thinking Black anodizing for durability and rust resistance. I have anodized scuba tanks that are pretty old and not a blemish so far. I think the wal-mart kit os a Hopps brand. I have touched up a spot or two with it and it does Ok too. You could go all out and have it sodium nitrided, but that is way pricy.
Bob
 
You could Parkerize them. It's not black, but durable gray
 
If you are looking for a good cold blue, try Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. It is the most durable cold blue I've used and is fairly resistant to rust. I use it to blue/blacken alot of small parts.
Bobby
 
There are a couple other products you might look at -- full disclosure, I've only seen them in the catalogs. One is Precision Brand Tool Black Kit, a chemical blackener, look for it at use-enco.com, for one. Looks pricey for what you get. Another is DuraCoat Firearms Finishes. Grizzly sells this, among others vendors (they have their own web site) It is a two-part, I guess maybe epoxy, paint system, many different colors. I've seen them use this on Sons of Guns (not that THAT is any kind of recommendation). Best applied by spray, airbrush, etc. You heat it gently to harden, and it continues to harden for several weeks. Supposedly impact and peel resistant.

Links: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=825-8150&PMPXNO=950362&PARTPG=INLMK3

http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com/

I just noticed DuraCoat has a new lower price "shake and spray" product that's self contained. Sounds interesting.
 
I've used the Precision brand blackener and it works well. It's a selenium based product like the Birchwood Casey stuff, but more cost effective if you have a lot of parts to do since it comes in quarts rather than a 3 ounce bottle. They also offer a sealer which in my opinion is less impressive since it gives the parts a shiny finish.

I was temped to try the Duacoat on the frame of my 45 but went with traditional blue instead. I was a little concerned about the durability issue, although I used to work at a place where we used a type of baked on ink (Nazdar) that was very hard and chip resistant. I'd like to hear from someone who has used it and if they were happy with the results.

You actually admit publicly that you watch Sons of Guns? :shush:I understand the show isn't very popular with real gunsmiths, something about giving them a bad name? I will say that my son could weld better than anyone I've seen on the show...when he was five.

Tom
 
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