How to make simple part

Good little series from Quin at Blondiehacks here you might find of use before you start.
The points made about ensuring the work is secure are paramount!
 
Just in case you are interested A review of the mill/drill in question popped up.
Should be a good tool to cut your teeth on.
 
I just thought of this, since you are new to machining. You have to mill down about 1/58". That is not a problem if you have the right end mills. Most likely, with the stuff at hand, you will find that the cutting flutes may be from 3/4" to maybe 1-1/2" long. The problem is that in a perfect world with rigid machines and new sharp end mills, you can probably plunge straight down or make a couple of passes to get to your depth. More than likely, once you get pass the cutting flutes, the body of the end mill will rub on the metal above. The flutes will most likely be a little worn. You may have to back the end mill away from the cut about 1/2 thousand. With what you are making that shouldn't be a problem. On a rocket ship, yeah, but on a bracket, no. In search of perfection, this can be solved in two easy ways, which I wouldn't bother with right now, starting out. 1. Buy an end mill with flutes longer than the piece you are milling. 2. Buy a reduced shank end mill, say 5/8" on a 1/2 shank. The you are limited to the length of the end mill from bottom to face of the holder.

Clamp the piece down straight, tight and go for it!!!!
 
Wear safety glasses and keep you hands away. If the part comes loose it can chop up anything it hits. Watch some videos. ThatLazyMachinist has excellent instructional videos. Google his name. Find a video, click on his name in the video up will pop his page showing all his videos. Select a series then a video or use search.
 
Absolutly with safety glasses!!!! No long clothes or jewelry. I personally hate aluminum cuttings. They are sharper than steel. Use a brush to clean away, Do NOT use bare fingers. It can take days to get them to beal out of your skin!!
 
Thanks everybody. The pointers are quite helpful. It will be a few days until I get a chance to work on things. I'll have more questions then I can sure.
 
I took inventory of what we have. We have a full set of collets except 1/2, probably the most common size:) We have a bunch of endmills, even a 1/2 with 3/8 shank, but they dont feel super sharp. We have a fairly decent vice I think, but no dial indicator. For this simple project I though about clamping a staight edge in the vice and run the x axis to it's stops each direction and squaring off the endmill shank with a feeler gauge. I probably should buy a dial indicator ....

I'll give the mill a try this week. I have my materials on the way.
 
It can be done with just a straight shaft in the collet. That's a little easier than with an end-mill.

I probably should buy a dial indicator ....

Yep. Heavily recommended. A magnetic base and arm for it too.
They do NOT have to be super expensive ones.

Lee Valley Tools has a simple set for only $50.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...ng/32525-dial-indicator-and-base?item=88N3120

Little Machine Shop has a basic set for half that price:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1593&category=

My preferred is a dial test indicator held in the spindle and run against the vise fixed jaw.
Here's a basic DTI for $30:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1249&category=

The same magnetic base could be used for either instrument.

-brino
 
I was looking at these:



What does it mean when it says if greater swarf removal is desired to use a 2 flute endmill?
 
I was looking at these:



What does it mean when it says if greater swarf removal is desired to use a 2 flute endmill?
2 flutes are for softer and stickier materials, 4 flutes are for steel, etc.
 
Back
Top