How to Remove Frozen Harmonic Balancer / Pulley from Shaft?

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dansawyer

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I am replacing the AC generator in a generator unit. The generator aux field coil shorted and I found a like unit with a good AC generator sub unit. The photo shows the harmaonic balancer / flywheel / pulley on the armature shaft. I have commonly been able to remove balancers with an air hammer on a nut screwed into the shaft. No luck on this armature.
The photo shows the bolt screwed into the armature, a small section of the armature, and the balancer. I am thinking heat applied to the balancer is the best way to go from here. Is this correct? Is there a better way?
There are 2 screw holes in the balancer / flywheel / pulley. Would a puller be better than heat?
Thanks in advance. Dan

gen_har_bal_01.jpg
 
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The bolt is for retaining the pulley.

Remove the bolt and determine its pitch and diameter.

Determine the pitch and diameter of the 2 threaded holes on the flywheel, (make draw bolts for these holes)

If you have sufficient allthread with a nut, couple nuts, a short bar of steel, and the ability to drill a few holes, and add a couple draw bolts, you can make a puller.
Drill the steel bar larger than the necessary holes, insert the all-thead into the retention bolt hole, put the nut on the all-thread, install the drilled steel bar onto the protruding all-thread, make and install draw bolts to the drilled steel bar . Use the nuts installed onto the all-thread to displace the steel bar which will pull the pulley
 
The puller for these is a bit stronger than normal.

You can rent or borrow one from auto parts stores.

Forget about making puller or bolts, you need very strong materials.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Thank you all. 20 years ago I rebuilt a manual transmission that had a frozen bearing. I tightened the puller as much as I dared and then applied heat. After about 90 seconds there was a very low 'click'. I let it cool for 8 hours and then cycle 2, same click. I waited overnight and repeated the cycle. It took 4 or 5 cycles before the puller could pull the bearing. I think I will try that process.
Thank you all. I will report back.
 
dansawyer said:
Thank you all. 20 years ago I rebuilt a manual transmission that had a frozen bearing. I tightened the puller as much as I dared and then applied heat. After about 90 seconds there was a very low 'click'. I let it cool for 8 hours and then cycle 2, same click. I waited overnight and repeated the cycle. It took 4 or 5 cycles before the puller could pull the bearing. I think I will try that process.
Thank you all. I will report back.
Click to expand...
A puller and heat is a good way to go and a sharp wrap with a hammer on the puller can also help.

That might be on a taper so the “click” could rather large and violent.
 
Update: I made a puller from a 1/2 x 3/4 x 5 inch hold down bar from the milling machine hold down set, a 4 in bolt, nut, and washer with the same threads as the pulley, and 1/4 x 20 all thread. The nut and washer went against the inside of the center bolt and the 1/4 x 20 all thread nuts and washer against the outside. The result was the 1/4 x 20 were pulling in the pulley and the nut and washer were pushing on the armature.
It took 2 passes to set it up. I would judge the final torque on the 1/4 x 20 was about 1/2 rod breaking force.
You were correct, it is a teper. Is was not a snap or a SNAP, but a Snap, definitely not a click. No heat or hammer required. Slow and steady torque. Nothing broken, no threads stripped, no fallen parts broken on the floor. All in all successful. Thank you all. Dan
 
dansawyer said:
Update: I made a puller from a 1/2 x 3/4 x 5 inch hold down bar from the milling machine hold down set, a 4 in bolt, nut, and washer with the same threads as the pulley, and 1/4 x 20 all thread. The nut and washer went against the inside of the center bolt and the 1/4 x 20 all thread nuts and washer against the outside. The result was the 1/4 x 20 were pulling in the pulley and the nut and washer were pushing on the armature.
It took 2 passes to set it up. I would judge the final torque on the 1/4 x 20 was about 1/2 rod breaking force.
You were correct, it is a teper. Is was not a snap or a SNAP, but a Snap, definitely not a click. No heat or hammer required. Slow and steady torque. Nothing broken, no threads stripped, no fallen parts broken on the floor. All in all successful. Thank you all. Dan
Click to expand...
I had a pitman arm come off of my 76 Bronco with enough force to put a 1.5" deep divot in the blacktop driveway.

I cranked and cranked and stopped to take a breather and........ BOOM, the whole works, puller pitman arm and ratchet landed between my knees.

Sometimes you get a snap, sometimes a BOOM, other times you get a whimper.
 
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