How would you do this?

MyLilMule said:
My experiences would completely refute everything here.
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Neat, but I’m not impressed by the simple fact that you’re suggesting welding on a galvanized part.

That is the last thing I would suggest someone to do unless I knew they understood the risks, and I didn’t see that covered.


Flycutting would have him inhaling enough galvanized dust to likely make him feel bad and welding on this would definatly give him fume fever.


Metal fume fever - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org en.m.wikipedia.org


So given that, I think OP would be better served to foregoing this venture and buy a proper angle plate, or use this one as is, verses contaminating his shop and or tools with galvanized dust or fumes.
 
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RaisedByWolves said:
Neat, but I’m not impressed by the simple fact that you’re suggesting welding on a galvanized part.

That is the last thing I would suggest someone to do unless I knew they understood the risks, and I didn’t see that covered.


Flycutting would have him inhaling enough galvanized dust to likely make him feel bad and welding on this would defiantly give him fume fever.


Metal fume fever - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org en.m.wikipedia.org


So given that, I think OP would be better served to foregoing this venture and buy a proper angle plate, or use this one as is, verses contaminating his shop and or tools with galvanized dust or fumes.
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I agree Galvanize fumes will kill you
 
Hey guys, I know better than to weld on galvanized, geesh!
Taking it to the sandblaster today.
I should have mentioned this first off I guess, sorry for any misunderstandings here.

Sure did not intend on starting a row here!
 
@finsruskw Sounds like a good plan. I've welded then machined various blocks and bits for setup use. Looks like a fairly thick piece of angle, but some braces will help with chatter if you're mounting something large that's marginal on rigidity issues. Topper Machine shop on youtube just released a video where he milled some very large shop made angle plates. Yes, there is going to be some internal stress and distortion. But if you machine it true after welding, and apply some common sense to how you go about it, the issues are going to be in the tenths realm not the thou's. So it largely depends on how accurate you need. You can always knock a bit more off down the road to true it up again. A fly cutter would work well for that.
 
Back to the original question - How to go about milling each surface such that they will be at right angles (assuming he does not have access to a horizontal milling machining).
 
bretthl said:
Back to the original question - How to go about milling each surface such that they will be at right angles (assuming he does not have access to a horizontal milling machining).
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As long as you have enough Z height, set it face up on machinists jacks, or 123 blocks, so one face is up and mill that face with a fly cutter. Then rotate it so the other face is up, and run an indicator up/down on the already milled face, adjusting the machinist jacks until that face is completely vertical. Could possibly even hang the downward turned angle over the front of the table if Z height is an issue.
 
rabler said:
As long as you have enough Z height, set it face up on machinists jacks, or 123 blocks, so one face is up and mill that face with a fly cutter. Then rotate it so the other face is up, and run an indicator up/down on the already milled face, adjusting the machinist jacks until that face is completely vertical. Could possibly even hang the downward turned angle over the front of the table if Z height is an issue.
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Holding it would be interesting problem unless you could live with moving clamps between milling passes. I'm interested because I have a similar piece of angle.
 
bretthl said:
Holding it would be interesting problem unless you could live with moving clamps between milling passes. I'm interested because I have a similar piece of angle.
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The trick there is to have multiple clamps, with a jack under each clamp point, and avoid moving more than one clamp at a time. You could also put the downturned side into a vice, use a couple pieces of copper wire run horizontal in the vice as buffers for the jaws on the rough surfaces, and then use a couple machinist jacks under the horizontal part to give it some support.
 
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