HTP Arctic Chill TIG Cooler Mod, a la This Old Tony

I'm glad this helped some people! I give a lot of props to This Old Tony for blazing the trail!
 
I highly HIGHLY recommend switching out the worm clamps on the inlet/outlet of the radiator/heat exchanger, and using double pinch clamps on the hoses. Trust me, you don't wanna deal with a HUGE potential mess. Ask me how I know.
 
Would a 26 series torch solve the problem w/o coolant?
Aaron
 
Would a 26 series torch solve the problem w/o coolant?
Aaron

Depends which "problem" see are seeing in your head, specifically. Will a 26 series handle the heat like a water-cooled 20-series? Nope. Will it be less bulky/cumbersome than a water-cooled 20-series? Nope. Remember, he already has a water-cooled torch. He's not at a point where he is pushing the limits of a 17-series air-cooled and needs to decide what route to take to upgrade...
 
I highly HIGHLY recommend switching out the worm clamps on the inlet/outlet of the radiator/heat exchanger, and using double pinch clamps on the hoses. Trust me, you don't wanna deal with a HUGE potential mess. Ask me how I know.

What is it about the clamps that caused your problem? They cut through the the hose?
 
What is it about the clamps that caused your problem? They cut through the the hose?

Even with two, the non-uniform clamping pressure from worm clamps will eventually allow the hose to let go of the tube, since there is no shoulder to prevent it from slipping away.
 
Ah ha. Good advice, thanks! I’ll check that out.
 
Knowing what I know now, I would have should have brazed a single small diameter copper wire (≈ 0.030" - 0.040") around the end of the radiator tubes in order to provide a shoulder to prevent the tube from slipping off during use and spilling out heaps of water/coolant all over my garage floor.
 
Knowing what I know now, I would have should have brazed a single small diameter copper wire (≈ 0.030" - 0.040") around the end of the radiator tubes in order to provide a shoulder to prevent the tube from slipping off during use and spilling out heaps of water/coolant all over my garage floor.
Would putting a lip on the bung using a plumbing double flare tool would work? I realize you'd have to disassemble things a bit to fit the tool in there, just not sure if the diameter & wall of the material would work.
 
Would putting a lip on the bung using a plumbing double flare tool would work? I realize you'd have to disassemble things a bit to fit the tool in there, just not sure if the diameter & wall of the material would work.
possibly, but braided high-pressure nylon tubing is quite stiff and doesn't like to expand, so if the lip formed from the double-flare is too large, you may struggle with getting the hose back on.
 
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