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I got a Craftsman 101.07403 lathe! Now what!?

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ARC-170

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#1
I just bought a Craftsman 101.07403 lathe. It is in dire need of taking apart, cleaning and lubing. I have some questions:

1. The spindle bearing might be shot. It turns by hand but feels "crunchy" (I believe that is the proper technical term). Could need replacing. How do I get it out to tell? I may try putting some oil in the cups in the meantime. I'd like details, not just "pull them out". I've never done it, so I need pictures or links to how to do it. Whatever ya got!

2. What oil/lube/grease do I use for lubing the various parts? Is there a table or list somewhere? I couldn't find a manual, just a parts list.

3. What should I clean this with? I'm thinking Simple Green and rags. Lots of rags. Can I use a wire brush, and should it be steel, brass, plastic or bristle? Can I use a wire wheel on a drill or should this be done by hand? Can I soak the rusty bits in Evapo-Rust? What do I use to clean the "varnish" off? I've seen references to "varnish" several times, and am wondering exactly what that is referring to? Dried up oil on the ways?

4. Is the original paint on this baked on or sprayed on? My lathe has what appears to be paint spill/spatter on it (white dots in the pictures). The original paint is in pretty good shape, so I don't want to mess it up.

5. Is the spindle threaded on with a reverse thread? Mine is stuck on really good. After I spray Liquid Wrench on the thread I want to make sure I'm rotating the spindle in the correct direction. And, what kind of tool can I use to get some leverage? There are no flats on the spindle that could grip a wrench. And if the gear that engages the spindle lock is Zamak, I don't want to break it.

6. Can someone direct me to pictures of what the lathe looked like new so I can see if I'm missing any knobs, ID plates, etc? I think there is a knob missing on the cross slide. Or, just tell me.

7. When referring to my lathe what is the proper way: 101.07403, 101-07403 101 07403 or does it matter?

If you like, just list the number and your answer, especially if you only answer one or a few of the questions.

Some pictures for reference:

BACK I took the motor off to make it lighter to unload.
craftsman lathe (1) small.jpg

FRONT I took the motor off to make it lighter to unload.
craftsman lathe (2) small.jpg

GEARBOX
craftsman lathe (3) small.jpg

CARRIAGE I seem to be missing a knob.
craftsman lathe (4) small.jpg

CROSS SLIDE
craftsman lathe (5) small.jpg

CHUCK
craftsman lathe (6) small.jpg

DRIVE
craftsman lathe (7) small.jpg
 

dlane

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#2
Make swarf , and your parts with it, if it needs help fix it.
 

Z2V

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#3
ARC-170
Have you looked through the “ downloads “ for the info you need? I can’t answer your questions but you might find it there.
Nice score on the old lathe
 

wa5cab

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#4
1. It is more than likely that the spindle bearings are OK, just bone dry. Do not turn the spindle any more until you have them properly lubed. If you have to do it, the detailed instructions for disassembling and re-assembling the headstock are in an Atlas Technical Bulletin in the Atlas section of Downloads (to access Downloads you must be a donor because Downloads is one of our significant monthly expenses). Read the instructions for using Downloads that are up above in the Sticky section first.

If the oil cups have felt disks in them, remove them temporarily and run several cup fulls of oil through the cups before you turn the spindle again.

2. The factory recommended oil for every place on the machine except the open gear teeth is SAE 20 (ISO 68) non detergent motor oil. I would use way oil on the ways and dovetails but you can get by for the time being with SAE 20. For the gear teeth, use a high temperature graphite bearing grease.

3. Simple Green is OK but I would use Varsol. Wear surgical or mechanics gloves as it will dry your skin out. I would use steel or stainless seel bristles on unpainted metal and brass on painted. Do not use a wire wheel on a drill or grinder. Varnish is dried oil. It can be removed with Varsol and steel wool or preferably 3M nylon pads with no grit. I didn't see anything in the photos rusty enough to warrant disassembly and soaking.

4. No one really knows but I would assume that the paint on the castings was baked on.

5. Both ends of the spindle are threaded right hand. If the spindle nose and chucks and other accessories had left hand threads, they would unscrew every time that you used the lathe. The factory way to break a not-known-to-be-stuck chuck loose from the spindle is to rotate the chuck until the socket for the chuck key is at TDC, engage back gear without pulling out the direct drive pin, insert the chuck key into its socket, grasp the key with both hands, push the key and chuck away from you, and then pull smartly toward you. If two trys of that don't break it loose, it is officially stuck. Try that only after you have soaked the threads with a good penetrating oil such as Kroil repeatedly for several days. If the second try doesn't break it free, stop. All of the cast gears in the machine are Zamak. Crank the jaws out and clamp a 12" length of 2x2 in the jaws, sticking down between the ways. Wrap a large strap wrench around the bull gear (the large spindle gear) and use it to break the chuck free. It may take several days of soaking and trying.

6. The five things that I spotted in your photos that are either missing or incorrect are the knob on the power cross feed shaft that sticks out the front of the apron up under the cross feed crank and bearing, one of the two handles on the compound feed screw crank, the motor ON-OFF switch in the hole in the rectangular plate on the left front of the headstock, and the threaded lever on top of the tail stock that tightens the tailstock ram locks are all missing. The nut that retains the crank on the cross feed screw is not original. The nameplate with model number should be either on the rear of the bed or on the right end of the bed, depending upon vintage. The Serial Number is stamped into the top of the right end of the front way. The ON-OFF switch escutcheon (plate) is present. There are no other plates on this vintage of lathe.

7. Sears model numbers consist of two or three digits that ID the contractor who built the item, a period, and three to six digits. Thus 101.07403 However, almost all internet search engines are too dumb to ID punctuation marks so as long as you don't write it as 10107403, you can usually find it.

The lubrication instructions are on pages 7 and 8 in any MOLO that would be appropriate for your machine.
 

NortonDommi

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#5
Nice lathe. Looks as if it has done little work. I like Kerosene for a wash down before going to far as it penetrates well and can loosen thing up. Well worth find as much documentation first and then a total strip down as it looks like it has been sitting a while.
 

mickri

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#6
The chuck on my lathe was stuck on pretty solid when I got it. I did not want to damage any of the gears. I used the drive belt like a strap wrench to hold the spindle. I used PB Blaster for a penetrating oil. I put a chuck key in the chuck with the key pointing towards me. Used light taps on the key until the chuck came free.

My lathe was covered with a layer of dried on oil/dirt when I got it. Used primarily carb cleaner to remove the oil/dirt. Also used WD40, brake cleaner and dish soap. For a scouring pad I used the non scratch blue pads.

I used white lithium grease because I had it on hand on all of the gears and shafts and 15/40 wt oil again because it was what I had available on the ways and in the oil caps. I have also used 3 in 1 oil at times on the ways. Probably not the best.

The MOLO has a wiring diagram. It may or may not be correct for your motor and switch.

After getting your lathe cleaned up and running one of the first things that you are going to want is something other that the lantern style tool posts. They are a pain to use. Most people buy one of the many styles of qctp. That can get very expensive in the blink of an eye. I decided to make a qctp. After researching on the web I went with a norman patent style qctp. Easy but time consuming to make at least for me. I have a thread on my qctp build in the machine accessories forum.

The fun begins
 

ARC-170

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1. I've heard there are some kind of wick in the oil cups. Where do I get these? Where would I get some kind of oil pan?

2-5. Thanks for the tips! I'll try all them and see what happens.

6. Where is the best source for parts like these? I've looked on Ebay and found a few of the parts. Just wondering if there is anywhere else I should look.
 

ARC-170

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After getting your lathe cleaned up and running one of the first things that you are going to want is something other that the lantern style tool posts. They are a pain to use. Most people buy one of the many styles of qctp. That can get very expensive in the blink of an eye. I decided to make a qctp. After researching on the web I went with a norman patent style qctp. Easy but time consuming to make at least for me. I have a thread on my qctp build in the machine accessories forum.

Where is a good place to buy one? I've looked at a few designs and it seems people make them as well. I just want options. The retail ones are pricey!
 

ARC-170

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I have a thread on my qctp build in the machine accessories forum.[/QUOTE said:
I couldn't find this. Can you post a link?
 

mickri

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I have not seen any of the homemade/diy qctp for sale anywhere. You will have to make them. The norman style that I chose can be made with a lathe and a drill press. No need for a mill although having a mill to cut the slot is a plus.
Here is the link to my thread on making a norman style qctp. https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/tool-post-holder.69487/
 

ARC-170

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8. I was looking at various retail QCTP holder sets. What is the stud with the nut and washer for on all the QCTP tool holders? I've used this type of holder before but none of them had this. The height adjustment on the ones I've used is done with a socket screw; this stud appears to just screw into the same place as the socket screws that hold the tool bit. Can someone clear up my confusion?
 

mickri

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Are you asking about the norman style like I am making or the aloris style? A picture would help.
 

markba633csi

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#13
ARC: the gib screws on your compound need to have nuts to lock the adjustment-
Mark
 

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wa5cab

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#14
Yes, I missed that. None of the compound gib screws are original. They should look like the four on the cross slide, except a size smaller.

It is unlikely that they will need replacing as the steel ones usually last forever. But if you do, I have the steel gibs available, new manufacture. The factory switched to plastic ones in the 1970's, one of the few mistakes that they made.

The stud, knurled thumb nut, light spring washer, and hex nut on the top of most QC tool holders are for setting the cutter height.

One problem with making you own QC, or one of them, is that of the #101 or #102, you will need several. Which adds to the time expended. The reason that you will need several is that with only one, you lose a large advantage or the QC over the lantern type holder. A typical job might call for one turning cutter, one facing cutter and one beveling or chamferring cutter. Every time that you needed to change cutters, you would have to go through the setup procedure to get the new cutter on center. So you aren't much better off than without a QC. Counting some 101XL's, I have around 15 of them. Pretty much anything that I need to do, I just grab the holder with the appropriate cutter.
 

mickri

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#15
I have realized the same thing with my norman style qctp. I am almost done with the first 7 tool holders and can see where I will need at least 4 or 5 more. It has taken me a long time to make them. On the other hand the cost has been minimal. Being retired I have nothing but time and I am learning a lot along the way. I have two boring bar holders, one holder for parting and one holder for threading. The other three holders I plan to have one for facing, one for turning and one that will be used for whatever I happen to need until I get more made.
 

ARC-170

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Are you asking about the norman style like I am making or the aloris style? A picture would help.
3900-5350__45689.1480600501.320.320.jpg
What are the posts on the tool holders that have gold and silver nuts for?
 

ARC-170

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#17
What if I got a QCTP that held four tool holders? I could set all four up and just rotate the post, correct?
 

wa5cab

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#18
What you are describing is called a Turret tool post or 4-Way Turret, not a QCTP. They are generally better than the lantern type (and by the way, the lantern type has one advantage over the QCTP, which is that on rare occasions they may allow you to get the cutter into the work without the TP being hit by or hitting something but generally not as convenient as the QC. The other problem with the 4-Way is that you can't always mount four cutters in it because when one cutter is selected, another one may be hitting the work, chuck, etc. And if one of the cutters installed is for facing, it can't be installed in the position CW of the turning cutter because it would be crossing the turning cutter. Just bite the bullet and get the QC.

Also, the 4-way does not use separate cutter holders. The cutter is mounted into the 4-way just as it would be mounted into the QC holder. And finally, there is no way to adjust the cutter height (to get it on center) other than by shimming up under the cutter in the 4-Way.

I answered your final question yesterday but somehow it is above the question. The gold nut is the height adjustment and the silver one locks it in position.
 
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