I hate oilers !

[Bob Korves]

If you have damaged oilers, pull them out and replace them. They do not cost that much, and they are easy to remove by screwing in a tight fitting sheet metal screw in the hole where the ball fits, and then pulling them out with a pry bar. Make sure of the diameter of the hole the oiler fits into and then order the correct size, should be a snug but relatively light press fit, not too tight or too loose. The fact that they are not accepting oil is likely not the problem of the oiler, it is a very simple device and is wide open to flow below the ball. If the ball goes down, oil should be able to enter and make its way through the oiler, there is nothing there that can really impede the flow. The real problem is more likely to be dried oil or grease in the oiler and/or in the passages below the oiler. It might be worth squirting some hotter solvent (like acetone, perhaps, or similar) in there at short intervals to see if it can melt out the dried lube before taking the machine apart to clean it up. At least that is my take on it... I suppose it is also possible that the passage way was not completed properly at the factory, which would mean that the machine has to come apart to make it correct

 

[parshal]

The real problem is more likely to be dried oil or grease in the oiler and/or in the passages below the oiler. It might be worth squirting some hotter solvent (like acetone, perhaps, or similar) in there at short intervals to see if it can melt out the dried lube before taking the machine apart to clean it up.

I did exactly that. First with WD40 and then acetone. No change. I'm chalking it up to tight tolerances. LOL

 

[ptsmith]

Here's this guy's take on it:

 

[Spotshooter]

Well a quick update - I was trying the types that seal on the outside surface of the oiler vs. the stab types that seal on the inside rim of the oiler, and NOT having a great time with that.

I got a can with a steel flex tube (golden oil can) that has a tip that inserts and seals on the inside rim.... Darn it if it doesn’t work ALOT better, even with the heavier oil.

The oiler I was having the most Problems with is the cross slide oiler on top of the hand crank which probably has a smaller area to let oil pass so it’s harder to get oil into. The other oilers - using this can is night and day compared to trying to get a seal on the outside surface of the oiler.

 

[Richard King 2]

You don't say what sort of machine you have. Like Benchee and Bob said, use Vac 2 on the ways. Vac 4 is for Huge 10 ton plus machines. I would only use Vactra 2 and never gear oil. If you ever owned a Leblond lathe they were smart and had a air exit hole at the end of the oil system passages, so you could pump in oil fast. If you have a Asian machine with ball oiler's that are the cheapest way to do it. If I were you I would take apart your machine and clean out the oiler holes as they maybe loaded with crud. Many of the old time machines were designed with Oil Cups with pipe cleaners wicks or white felt so the oil slowly fed out. You know when you write a question please provide us more info, like machine type, brand and some photo's. Now a days it is so easy to take photo's with a cell phone and down load them on here. Less guessing then.

 

[Spotshooter]

I have a PM 1440GT lathe, and a PM30 bench mill... I have 5 gal containers of Chevron ISO 68 (same as vectra 2, ISAO 32, and some heavier ways oil (essentially vectra 4).. I have been using the heavier ways for the oilers, but you have to have a good high pressure oil can.. I’m trying the 68 now..

the oilers on the mill are smaller diameter than the lathe.

Why does not getting oil in a oiler bother me...
I grew up on a farm with older equipment that dated back to the civil war so I have seen the oiler cups you are talking about on bearings before.
Given I’m German and grew up under German farmers oiling things before you start is part of my DNA. it doesn’t matter if it’s a grease fitting that won’t take grease, or an Oiler that I canto get lubricant into it bothers me, so I like knowing they are taking lube and how much.

 

[Richard King 2]

Thanks. Those Chinese made machines could be designed with a better oiling system in My Opinion. You sound like you could switch over to a better oiler or system. A Chinese lathe I repaired a month ago the owner installed a Bijur pump and restriction valves The issue they have on lathes is the cup oiler could get tangled up with a long chip pull it out. You might have to drill a few holes and tap them and use a Gitts screw in cup oiler. https://www.gitsmfg.com/catalog/oil-hole-covers/ using a zerk type oiler is also good as you need to pump the oil in under pressure and that will push out the crud under the ways. I still would take apart the saddle and cross-slide as many of those Asian machine also have poor oil groves or no oil groves. If you do, please take some photo's and share them here.

 

[Spotshooter]

The PM1440 is from Taiwan I believe, definitely not china.

 

[Latinrascalrg1]

So your not a Hockey fan or just not a fan of that team!

 

[Richard King 2]

Look at my profile. I have taught classes in Taiwan and am very familiar with lathes and how they are made. My mistake. I still believe you need to take it apart.