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- Mar 19, 2014
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IMHO that was a bargain! The Buck chuck alone is worth big bucks.
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I Scored Some Nice Tools Today
- Thread starter Mark_f
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 20, 2016
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- 346
Last edited:
Oh .... I still have a little more to do. The dividing head is basically done. I still have the sector arms to clean up and the plate to clean up. I am making a 3c collet adapter and a drive dog plate. I also have to make the spring loaded index pin. The original is not in great shape. But it will be done soon.
One accessory that is commonly needed on a dividing head is a dog drive bar that will accept a center. I decided to make one today. I turned a B&S #9 taper on a piece of cold roll bar stock. This is a copy of one of my collets.
You can see the taper is 4" long. The front 2" are to size to fit the spindle . The rear 2" are .005" under size. This allows the front portion of the collet to provide the register. There is no need for a 4" register surface. This also makes it easier to make because my tail stock travel is 2 1/8". The front nose in front of the 1 1/2" diameter collar is exactly 1" in diameter. The cross bar with the notches in the outer ends will press on here to provide the ability to turn a drive dog.
The rear of the piece is drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 for the drawbar. A 7/16" hole is drilled all the way through to allow a bar to knock out a center .
The compound is set to the angle for a number 2 morse taper. A hole slightly smaller than the small end of the morse taper was drilled 3" deep. Then a rough taper is turned to about .005" to .010" under finish size.
A # 2 morse taper roughing reamer was used to get the taper to size. You will notice the reamer is turned by hand. These are HAND reamers. They cannot be run under power because they may dig in and something will bust. It only took about five minutes to hand ream the taper to size.
Next a finish reamer is used ( BY HAND) to polish the taper. This only takes a couple minutes, you are only polishing the finish , not changing the size.
This is the finished #2 morse taper. The reamer gave a very smooth finish.
This is the piece with a dead center and in the dividing head. Next I will make a draw bar and the cross bar for the drive dog.
Now, a little bit about the reamers. Yes, they are Chinese and they work excellent when used properly. I believe the cost of the pair of reamers was about $13 on eBay.
I have heard guys trying to ream a morse taper and having a nightmare doing it. They are doing it wrong. These are hand reamers and you cannot run them in a straight hole because they will dig in and jam or break. You must turn a proper taper and ream it to size. The reamer has full cutting edge contact in the tapered hole and will not jam when you turn it. Also DO NOT try to turn it backwards to remove the reamer. It will jam and leave marks in your finish. To remove the reamer , simply pull it out.
It only took me 5 to 10 minutes to finish the bored hole to a perfect number 2 morse taper.
You can see the taper is 4" long. The front 2" are to size to fit the spindle . The rear 2" are .005" under size. This allows the front portion of the collet to provide the register. There is no need for a 4" register surface. This also makes it easier to make because my tail stock travel is 2 1/8". The front nose in front of the 1 1/2" diameter collar is exactly 1" in diameter. The cross bar with the notches in the outer ends will press on here to provide the ability to turn a drive dog. The rear of the piece is drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 for the drawbar. A 7/16" hole is drilled all the way through to allow a bar to knock out a center . The compound is set to the angle for a number 2 morse taper. A hole slightly smaller than the small end of the morse taper was drilled 3" deep. Then a rough taper is turned to about .005" to .010" under finish size. A # 2 morse taper roughing reamer was used to get the taper to size. You will notice the reamer is turned by hand. These are HAND reamers. They cannot be run under power because they may dig in and something will bust. It only took about five minutes to hand ream the taper to size. Next a finish reamer is used ( BY HAND) to polish the taper. This only takes a couple minutes, you are only polishing the finish , not changing the size. This is the finished #2 morse taper. The reamer gave a very smooth finish. This is the piece with a dead center and in the dividing head. Next I will make a draw bar and the cross bar for the drive dog. Now, a little bit about the reamers. Yes, they are Chinese and they work excellent when used properly. I believe the cost of the pair of reamers was about $13 on eBay.I have heard guys trying to ream a morse taper and having a nightmare doing it. They are doing it wrong. These are hand reamers and you cannot run them in a straight hole because they will dig in and jam or break. You must turn a proper taper and ream it to size. The reamer has full cutting edge contact in the tapered hole and will not jam when you turn it. Also DO NOT try to turn it backwards to remove the reamer. It will jam and leave marks in your finish. To remove the reamer , simply pull it out.
It only took me 5 to 10 minutes to finish the bored hole to a perfect number 2 morse taper.
Last edited by a moderator:
I finished my MT 2 adapter. This will allow me to use my MT 2 tooling in this dividing head. I can put a dead center in it and with a cross bar use a drive dog. I can use my drill chuck or any other MT 2 tool. I made a draw bar with a fluted aluminum knob.
It works great. You can also see the 3C collet adapter. I still have to make a draw bar for it.
Next is recondition the sector arms and the hole plate.
It works great. You can also see the 3C collet adapter. I still have to make a draw bar for it. Next is recondition the sector arms and the hole plate.
Since no one else said it: Great score! The one I've been hoping to make. DANG!!
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